Finally Got Headers - Heated O2 Sensor?
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 6,252
Likes: 2
From: Silicon Valley Kalifornia
Finally Got Headers - Heated O2 Sensor?
So I finally ordered my tpis headers and was wondering how many here on the cf have opted for a heated O2 sensor? Is it really needed?
1985 L98.
1985 L98.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,599
Likes: 24
From: Orange County NY
St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12-'13
I have the TPIS headers and a heated O2 on my '87 383 - it wouldn't go into closed loop with the non-heated sensor. It is a common problem with long tube headers as the sensor is not able to reach and/or sustain operating temp.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Athens AL
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
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My 86 goes into closed loop fine without one, TPIS headers.
Only way to tell is actually hook up a scanner and see if its dropping out of closed loop at idle.
the Autozone PN for the right heated O2 is 13190
Only way to tell is actually hook up a scanner and see if its dropping out of closed loop at idle.
the Autozone PN for the right heated O2 is 13190
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,599
Likes: 24
From: Orange County NY
St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12-'13
Originally Posted by vader86
Only way to tell is actually hook up a scanner and see if its dropping out of closed loop at idle.
That is what you should do first - verify whether or not it is staying in closed loop at idle.I bought the Bosch sensor, which included the weather pack connection terminals. It has 3 wires - one is connected to the original O2 sensor wire, one is ground, and one is connected to a switched power source.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,036
Likes: 13
From: Edmonton AB
Personally, I'd say just do it. There are LOTS of threads about this.
There is a Tech Tip with instructions and a p/n for one of the several
sensors that can be used. However, the following information from
a recent post strikes me as being one of the simplest, least expensive
and neatest ways of going about switching to a heated O2. The
complete package from Casper's is a great bargain.
There is a Tech Tip with instructions and a p/n for one of the several
sensors that can be used. However, the following information from
a recent post strikes me as being one of the simplest, least expensive
and neatest ways of going about switching to a heated O2. The
complete package from Casper's is a great bargain.
"Here are a couple of links that may be useful. I wish I'd known about
the first one before I sourced/built my conversion. The second link
shows one way of tapping into a switched 12VDC source for the O2
heater.
Heater O2 sensor: Modify Aux Fan Relay for a switched 12VDC source
There are some tech tips and many other threads on the subject."
.
the first one before I sourced/built my conversion. The second link
shows one way of tapping into a switched 12VDC source for the O2
heater.
Originally Posted by artvette
There are some tech tips and many other threads on the subject."
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: OBAMA IS HITLER
Originally Posted by Slalom4me
Personally, I'd say just do it. There are LOTS of threads about this.
I didn't mess around with testing later on to find out whether a heated/relocated o2 would be required or not; I ain't into that kind of nonsense. I just did it. Didn't cost much, and there's nothing to worry about later.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,036
Likes: 13
From: Edmonton AB
For those who may not know, Hot Rod 90's remarks about having his
pipes coated are relevant to the O2 discussion because coated pipes
are better at retaining heat - so the sensor is more likely to reach
operating temperature in coated pipes than in uncoated ones.
Ditto with stainless steel pipes.
When I installed SS pipes, I retained the unheated sensor temporarily
for expediency. I happened to log sessions and I could see that I
ought to have a heated sensor because it took a long time to go to
closed loop and under cruise conditions at 50 MPH on a cold day, my
car would go open loop. It might not have been problem in hot
conditions but I intended to go to a heated sensor, regardless.
The heated sensor warms up now in seconds, no matter what the
conditions are.
.
pipes coated are relevant to the O2 discussion because coated pipes
are better at retaining heat - so the sensor is more likely to reach
operating temperature in coated pipes than in uncoated ones.
Ditto with stainless steel pipes.
When I installed SS pipes, I retained the unheated sensor temporarily
for expediency. I happened to log sessions and I could see that I
ought to have a heated sensor because it took a long time to go to
closed loop and under cruise conditions at 50 MPH on a cold day, my
car would go open loop. It might not have been problem in hot
conditions but I intended to go to a heated sensor, regardless.
The heated sensor warms up now in seconds, no matter what the
conditions are.
.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 9,959
Likes: 40
From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Originally Posted by Slalom4me
For those who may not know, Hot Rod 90's remarks about having his
pipes coated are relevant to the O2 discussion because coated pipes
are better at retaining heat - so the sensor is more likely to reach
operating temperature in coated pipes than in uncoated ones.
Ditto with stainless steel pipes.
When I installed SS pipes, I retained the unheated sensor temporarily
for expediency. I happened to log sessions and I could see that I
ought to have a heated sensor because it took a long time to go to
closed loop and under cruise conditions at 50 MPH on a cold day, my
car would go open loop. It might not have been problem in hot
conditions but I intended to go to a heated sensor, regardless.
The heated sensor warms up now in seconds, no matter what the
conditions are.
.
pipes coated are relevant to the O2 discussion because coated pipes
are better at retaining heat - so the sensor is more likely to reach
operating temperature in coated pipes than in uncoated ones.
Ditto with stainless steel pipes.
When I installed SS pipes, I retained the unheated sensor temporarily
for expediency. I happened to log sessions and I could see that I
ought to have a heated sensor because it took a long time to go to
closed loop and under cruise conditions at 50 MPH on a cold day, my
car would go open loop. It might not have been problem in hot
conditions but I intended to go to a heated sensor, regardless.
The heated sensor warms up now in seconds, no matter what the
conditions are.
.
