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I am taking the brake rotors off and the book says that when you remove the caliper bracket you are to discard the bolts and buy new ones. Is this true? Does anybody else do this? Should I just clean the bolts and use locktite.
I did the first time. Some of the bolts (I did brakes at all 4 corners) I had to buy at the dealer... and they were about $7 a piece!!!!!! I don't think that they are true torque-to-yield blots (someone correct me), and I have heard of people cleaning them and reusing them with blue loctite a couple times before they pitch them and buy new bolts.
i did when i overhauled my entire brake assemblies with new pads rotors and calipers but that was because the new calipers came with the pins and bolts, well 3 of them did
when i first started working on c-4's, back about 20 years ago, the first three or four times i went to the dealer for new brake bolts...then the parts manager asked me what i was doing with em--nobody else ever bought em and they didn't use em in house
I have to admit I'm one of the ones who also buys new. Brakes have only been off a couple times in the 12 years I've owned the car. All times were for upgrades... I figure the Helms calls for it & is it REALLY that much $ for peace of mind on the brakes. Which IMHO are one of the last things I want to see fail on the road.
Two years ago I re-used the bolts and used Loctite on them. If I have to pull them again, they will be replaced. BUT, you are correct, they should be replaced and not reused.
Before this, the only bolts I ever heard of that were replaced after removal were the rod bolts on the '73,'74 Super Duty 455 Pontiac Trans Ams. I think I'll reuse this time around then when I upgrade the rotors I'll buy new. Thanks
The reason that the service manual says to toss the bolts and use new is that the new bolts comes with a threadlocker already on the new bolt.
If you clean the threads of the bolts (don't forget to chase the female threads to clean out any residue!!) and apply some blue loctie, you can reuse them. Don't use red loctite as that stuff requires heat to release the material.
The bolts are not a torque-to-yield type but given the high torque setting for the front bolts, it would be a good idea to replace them after a few uses. I go thru a lot of front rotors on my 87 autocross and track day car so I keep an extra set of new bolts in the tool box, but I reuse the front bolts 2 times before tossing.
The rear bolts are not as big a deal as the torque value is nowhere near as high as the front bolts although the bolt is smaller.
Yeah I agree, I don't believe they are a torque to yield bolt.
I think the major reason why they want you to replace them is they often corrode and get very rough. I've done a few brake jobs before where the pin is actually dipped and very rough from corrosion.
He's replacing the rotors so the brackets have to come off.
The service manual also recommends tossing the bolts that hold the caliper guide pins. These are much smaller and torqued to a much lower value, but the factory replacement bolts also have a pre-installed threadlocker on them.
I clean the threads on those bolts and use blue loctite on them just like the caliper brackets.
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
Typical GM, throwing out the baby with the bathwater.
I'm going to safety wire my brake bolts if I can find a small drill bit strong enough to cut em.
wise move. go over to the autocross/road race section. There's been quite a few track cars that have had thier bolts back off. Steel and aluminum don't mix expansion wise.
2001 Z28 - had brake job done - too busy that time to do it myself. Six months after brake job one of the bolts on the rear caliper mount backed off and fell out. Caliper swung down and scraped the heck out of the inside of my new chrome wheels.
My fault because I didn't check their work.
Use new bolts, torque wrench, loctite = very cheap stopping insurance.