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OK guys I am just about ready to put the new 383 and transmission in. I know I had slight pinion seal leak before I pulled the engine. I figure now is the time to replace the seal. Can anyone give me an idea of the torque to tighten it back up so I don't destroy the bearings or have the pinion nut come loose? Can I use the existing preload and then tighten it back up to that value?
OK guys I am just about ready to put the new 383 and transmission in. I know I had slight pinion seal leak before I pulled the engine. I figure now is the time to replace the seal. Can anyone give me an idea of the torque to tighten it back up so I don't destroy the bearings or have the pinion nut come loose? Can I use the existing preload and then tighten it back up to that value?
Greg
They do not have a crush collar. The pinions are shimmed for preload. I di not remember the factory torque spec. 150 ft lbs come to mind, but not positive. Use a new nut. Used ones always seem to loosen, even with locktite.
OK guys I am just about ready to put the new 383 and transmission in. I know I had slight pinion seal leak before I pulled the engine. I figure now is the time to replace the seal. Can anyone give me an idea of the torque to tighten it back up so I don't destroy the bearings or have the pinion nut come loose? Can I use the existing preload and then tighten it back up to that value?
Greg
Not sure what the torque is on your 1991. My 1987 Helms manual lists the pinion torque at 190-210 ft lbs. for the 36 and 44 units.
I usually just use a big air hammer to tighten might down. Never had a problem with them coming loose or any other problems.
I used a B/A impact gun on mine more than a year ago and it has survive a year of daily driving w/o drama. (I replaced the three seals during my D36 to D44 conversion, the diff was not leaking but I thought since it was out of the car I might as well! )
Mike