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87 auto, new plugs, cap,coil, new battery. Annoying miss between 1700-1800 RPMs, no codes.Same thing prior to above. I'll be checking Fuel pressure later today.No arcing in plug wires.Can't hear any vac leaks.Revs great-no stumble.
But I'm kinda wondering if my alternator could cause this-I'll have it checked later also. Idles very good, runs great except at this RPM range. Any ideas?
Just thinking here, have you taken the spark plugs out to look at them? and make sure the wires snapped on tight. It could be the little things we overlook.
Took the ignition module in-ran through 10 cycles (hot) and that checked out good. Haven't done the EGR block off CFI suggested YET!
But I will. The reason I'm thinking alternator is-I had ran my battery way down-charged it enough to start (later charged it more) but the tach guage and the rest on that side were going crazy-after the longer charge it subsided-went to get something and asked them to check my alternator-they said OK-but the battery was way low-even after hours of charging-well replaced the battery-and guess what? the tach and guages on that side are still going nuts-until I rev the engine enough to reach 14 plus volts-then it stops. Think it could be the alternator?
gonna go out and do the EGR now-and see if the miss goes away or gets better-somehow me and my hrad head keeps saying ALTERNATOR.
went to get the alternator checked-said come back in an hour. CFI-EFI,
I pulled the hose off the EGR, plugged it and went for a run-same thing-missing between 1700-1800, and the dash is still going bonkers.And that's why my hard head keeps saying alternator. Read the above post-can hardly wait to have that sucker checked. When a tune up doesn't get it and there ain't no codes-this sh*#t drives me bonkers.
Last edited by rick lambert; Mar 14, 2006 at 04:58 PM.
Rick, make sure they have a load tester, so they can do it on the car. some thing like a Snap-On avr tester, it will check the diodes also.
The reason i say this is that we have had several come into our shop with bad alternators, and the owners just would not listen to me, because autocrap or some other parts place has said there alternator was fine.
CFI-EFI,
I pulled the hose off the EGR, plugged it and went for a run-same thing-missing between 1700-1800, and the dash is still going bonkers.
I never expected to clear up the dash problem with the EGR. In fact when I suggested it, you hadn't mentioned the dash problem. I had a miss, once, that was caused by an EGR malfunction. It has helped some on here, but obviously it wasn't your problem. At least it didn't cost anything to check it out.
you're right-but I thought the dash light problem had gone away with #1 charging the old battery-it seemed to get better (almost gone) #2
when I asked them to check the alternator yesterday they said the battery was way to low? been on charger for hours prior to that-replaced the battery-dash lights got better-but still tweak! that combined with the miss keeps my one track mind going to alternator!
I'm glad you suggested the EGR though-cause that most likely eliminates it from the equasion. went back to have alternator checked-errrrrrrrrrrrr, there new equipment needs to have their battery charged 12-24 hrs. so back tomorrow. I'll keep u posted-and keep the
ideas comming-hard without codes to find these intermittent suckers-and I think I'm doing a systematic flow-been awhile since a tune-eliminated that-and some other diagnostics. Thanks.
Rick- I am not familiar with '87 distributer, but what controls your timing advance during acceleration? Do they still use the centrifugal weight advance system and vacumm advance????
anyway, i was thinking that maybe your advance weights could be sticking during the 1700-1800 RPM range until a higher RPM could break them free....
Rick- I am not familiar with '87 distributer, but what controls your timing advance during acceleration? Do they still use the spring and weight system and vacumm advance????
My 84 was doing the same thing,and I changed the EGR,all the mod's in the distributor,[they were burnt,and acted up when they got hot],used the dilected grease,copper tip distributor cap,MSD coil,and wires 8.5, and it's fine now. A plus was that it now runs cooler too,about 5-8 degrees. good luck
Maaaaaaaan, I love it-keep it comming Brothers MikeC4-no we're a little more advanced than that in our C4s-but honestly-thanks for asking We have what's called an Electronic spark control-controlled through the ECM, no vacumn advance and none of the old centrifugal weights-God-I loved thoughs.
Robert43- thanks for your input great info for others. I've basically tuned it-new plugs,cap, rotor,coil, had the ignition module
checked-and I checked the EGR per MY FRIEND CFI-EFI. I'm still leaning toward alternator-but-I'm hard headed.
Last edited by rick lambert; Mar 14, 2006 at 10:18 PM.
Maaaaaaaan, I love it-keep it comming Brothers MikeC4-no we're a little more advanced than that in our C4s-but honestly-thanks for asking We have what's called an Electronic spark control-controlled through the ECM, no vacumn advance and none of the old centrifugal weights-God-I loved thoughs.
Robert43- thanks for your input great info for others. I've basically tuned it-new plugs,cap, rotor,coil, had the ignition module
checked-and I checked the EGR per MY FRIEND CFI-EFI. I'm still leaning toward alternator-but-I'm hard headed.
I think you might have what is referred to as a "flat spot" in your coil wiring! Had one like that in a 73 I had. My friend loaned me his,and sure enugh it went away. I have always change them now,got a MSD,and I can feel the difference.......Try a test one..........BOB