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All new to me. Got my first Vett. '96 LT-4. Already have to start fixing stuff.
It looks like I need to replace one of the axles or at least a "C" clip or posi clutch plates. It seems to have way too much movement in & out on the passenger side. Question: Can you pull the differential out from the front of the carrier and get it free of the torque arm, or is it better to pull the whole rear end out to get at it when it's all free of the car?
Thanks for the replys. I'm learning all these new names for stuff. Batwing I found out is the rear cover and carrier holder. I guess the "C Beam" is what I called the torque arm. Makes sense, Shaped like a C. Ford wrenches fit a Chevy too. I just want to hear from people who have done this before I start pulling apart stuff I might not have to. Your experience goes a long way to keeping me from having a bad one.
Thanks for the replys. I'm learning all these new names for stuff. Batwing I found out is the rear cover and carrier holder. I guess the "C Beam" is what I called the torque arm. Makes sense, Shaped like a C. Ford wrenches fit a Chevy too. I just want to hear from people who have done this before I start pulling apart stuff I might not have to. Your experience goes a long way to keeping me from having a bad one.
You should find this helpful: Little writeup I did that is in the tech section.
Thanks a bunch Ski ! That's exactally what I needed to know. Now all I need is to find out what's worn out in there that's letting the axle on the Passenger side move in & out so much. My guess would be a wollowed out "C" clip. but I guess I'll have to get in there to find out. Everybody here has been so helpful that I think any minute some part is going to come plopping out of my computer. (Can you guys do that?)
Yes, the only thing that holds the stub axles in the rear differential are the c-clips. DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR with them stub axles not secure. Not only does it allow your rear wheel to defect horribly which could cause the car to become unstable; but also the c-clip may be loose in there. This is a common thing to have happen and what will eventually happen is the c-clip will become caught in the rear gears/spider gears and you can blow the entire setup apart. Something on the order of .050 being forced through gears at high speed tends to cause MAJOR problems.
Just want to mention that, but it sounds like your on your way to getting her fixed up. Good luck. If you need any pointers-let me know...I have taken mine apart about 10 times now.
All new to me. Got my first Vett. '96 LT-4. Already have to start fixing stuff.
It looks like I need to replace one of the axles or at least a "C" clip or posi clutch plates. It seems to have way too much movement in & out on the passenger side. Question: Can you pull the differential out from the front of the carrier and get it free of the torque arm, or is it better to pull the whole rear end out to get at it when it's all free of the car?
If you are taking the Diff apart yourself be aware that the C-clips are color coded and should not be interchanged.
Cbeam bolts removed, but left in place while removing diff.
Pulling the cbeam with diff in is a royal bitch with the 6speed.
I posted earlier about my project to pull the differential all the way up to and including the clutch.
I was thinking about starting by removing the driveshaft and then the transmission, but based on the quote above. Do you recommend starting at the differential and then working forward, I'm guessing removing in the following order,
Drive shaft
Differential
C Beam
Transmission
clutch and then
replacing in reverse order.
I posted earlier about my project to pull the differential all the way up to and including the clutch.
I was thinking about starting by removing the driveshaft and then the transmission, but based on the quote above. Do you recommend starting at the differential and then working forward, I'm guessing removing in the following order,
Drive shaft
Differential
C Beam
Transmission
clutch and then
replacing in reverse order.
Actually, I'm thinking I should look at the above work as two separate projects:
Project 1: Remove and Replace the Differential
Then
Project 2: Remove and replace the transmission and clutch.
Reason: I sort of like the idea of having the rear wheels solid on the lift ramps when I'm working on removing the transmission and clutch.
While the differential is out, the rear end needs to be jacked up with no load on the rear wheels right?
^^No no.....I did this as well....just pull the D36/D44 (whatever) The slide the Cbeam back our along with the drive shaft. Then go after the tranny.
You dug up an old thread...which is OK...just commenting...
But, I'll tell you this, You can drop the Dana and then the C-beam.....but you can't put the C-beam on the tranny and then slide the Dana onto the C-Beam and lift the Dana in place......I tried.
You have to mount the Dana, Stab the tranny and then wrestle the C-beam back in place.
Trust me when I tell you, you don't want to make two projects out of it. You only want to wrestle the C-Beam once if you can get away with it.
Also, if you have a manual, Take the time to remove the tranny from the bell housing.....It makes that clutch assemble much more accessible......I hate reaching up to get to the bell housing/engine block coupling bolts.....to me it is much more worth it to just pull the four large bolts and slide the tranny back from the bell housing.....now you can see all of the bell housing bolts......it's much easier to me.
Yeah...with Central Coasters help...I've had to do this 4 times now since 2006......for various reasons.
It is labor intensive at best. It is not hard.....nor is it technically difficult......it's labor intensive with a lot of grunting and groaning and cussing.
I trimmed my C-beam....I'll see if I got a photo...you take a notch out of one side so that it clears the tranny when going in and out. Once you do this operation, you'll understand what it is I am talking about and why....
Also get the C-Beam plates. If you are new to C4s and you like to do this work, you may benefit from the C-beam plates......I put off the purchase and now, 4 times in and out with that C-beam....I wish I had purchased them the first time.....but I only think about it when I am lying under there....trying to grab that damn nut by feel alone.....it sux a$$
Here is a photo of where I ground off a bit of the C-beam
That notch is just enough for it to slip past the tranny on the install or removal process. Some say they don't have any issues.....but mine is really tight and I had to push the tranny to one side and pry down......now, I can just slide the C-beam as far back as it will go on the D36 and then it pulls down easily and I remove the whole thing.
Last edited by jhammons01; Oct 25, 2010 at 12:32 AM.
I trimmed my C-beam....I'll see if I got a photo...you take a notch out of one side so that it clears the tranny when going in and out. Once you do this operation, you'll understand what it is I am talking about and why....
Also get the C-Beam plates. If you are new to C4s and you like to do this work, you may benefit from the C-beam plates......I put off the purchase and now, 4 times in and out with that C-beam....I wish I had purchased them the first time.....but I only think about it when I am lying under there....trying to grab that damn nut by feel alone.....it sux a$$
Thanks for the tips. I appreciate your insight.
I purchased the beam plates thinking they would help with performance, but seems like I'll appreciate them more as an installation helper