C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Part number needed...

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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 07:12 PM
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Default Part number needed...

Guys does anyone know for certain what the part number for a stock 89 distributor is?

I can't believe that MSD doesn't make a replacement distributor for these cars. 99% of the guy with HEI type ignitions that MSD offers with the vacuum advance lock out the vacuum advance - which is basically what our are. So I don't know why they have not a version with a locked out advance yet?????

At any rate, I wanna replace my entire unit, has some miles on it and don't wanna push it any longer. Running a crank trigger which doesn't really change anything.

The local GM dealer did not know what the original part number should be. I am sure CFI or one of the other parts gurus can give me some guidance.

Also is it possible to just replace the shaft and housing? How much too if you have that.

Thanks!
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 07:24 PM
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The production distributor from 1986 through 1989 was 1103680. The service replacement distributor kit for 1984 through 1989 is 10497134.

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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 08:01 PM
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Check this place out, www.performancedistributors.com
Very good people and excellent replacement, they back up what they sell. Hope this helps, good luck
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 08:14 PM
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What is the MSD-8366? Isn't that for all '87-'93 GM EFI passenger cars with divorced/separate coil?
I would be concerned with the stock cast aluminum housing getting sloppy. The shaft should be pretty hard and long lasting (sounds like a Viagra commercial).
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 08:29 PM
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The shaft in the stock distributor runs in bronze bushings, as many steel shafts, around the world, in countless applications, do.

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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 08:30 PM
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Hey Jesse- I have a stock unit from an '85 tpi- coil in cap. It appears to be in good shape- with little to no play. Worked fine when I took it out of an engine a year or so ago. I can send pics if you would like. It's yours for the cost of shipping.

Last edited by bumpnzx3; Mar 15, 2006 at 08:35 PM.
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 08:34 PM
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Jesse, If you do go with a used or reman unit, pull out the shaft, jig it up and check it with a dial indicator. I have seen a few bent ones.
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 08:45 PM
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Thanks guys for all the replies. got some good information in a short time period.

CFI, which would you suggest, or doesn't it matter? Would the service piece be rebuilt? Napa has a rebuilt unit for 129.00. Wasn't real keen on that idea. Although since I am running a crank trigger, the only thing I need it to do is spin and have good bearings. Not even sure good bearings are a neccessary. lol.

500hp, yeah they make one with a seperate coil, but the complete conversion is about 400-500 dollars. Probably would be cheaper to go with a crank trigger distributer, but wanted to keep the HEI compact setup. not only that but its smaller in diameter than the original - after my motor problems this past year as a result of possible cross firing (pre-ignition) I am not about to give up any size, which can promote more crossfiring.

Bumpnzx3, thanks very much for the offer. That is very kind of you. My unit that I ran up till now is also working, just worried about possible wear.

Perhaps I should take mine apart and check it for clearance.

Funny thing is the bearing that CFI spoke of my company is the SOLE producer of these bearings! Unfortunately though we sell them to a zillion different outfits and they finish them to final specs though ball-burnishing etc. So the millions we produce each each are useless to me. Its a pretty neat process that is used to produce them, its a bi-metal bushing. Iron on the OD, and bronze on the ID. Both pressed through the powdered metal process at the same time - pretty cool to see it go in as a powdered form, and come out as a unit. Everyone that sees the operation asks. HOW DO YOU KEEP THE TWO DIFFERENT POWDERS SEPERATE UNTIL THEY ARE PRESSED. My answer is usually - that is why we are the only producer of them. Ancient chineese secret.

Thanks for the help guys....I will make my decision on what I wanna do off this input.
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Pete K
Jesse, If you do go with a used or reman unit, pull out the shaft, jig it up and check it with a dial indicator. I have seen a few bent ones.
Pete that is what has me concerned. During the destruction of my motor last season, EVERYTHING even the timing gear set was damaged with teeth knocked off it! Lifters all cracked, cam bent, and distributor was knocked loose, rotor broken if you recall - hence I am wondering what shape the distributer itself is in. I am going to have to inspect it with a fine tooth comb and see what it tells me.

Guess I was just being lazy thinking a replacement might be a safer route. I know what a hairline crack in something can do at 7k RPMs - like an intermittant miss that drive you NUTS.
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 08:51 PM
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Jesse,
If I were making the power you are I would probably be tempted to take apart a new one and inspect it well. Can't be too careful.
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ski_dwn_it
CFI, which would you suggest, or doesn't it matter? Would the service piece be rebuilt?
You wouldn't be able to buy the production part. The "service kit" is a new distributor intended to replace several production numbers, that are essentially the same thing. In an effort to be thorough, I gave you more information than you needed.

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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 09:37 PM
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I couldn't find a single number on the distributor in that GM catalog, it seemed to be seperate for housing, shaft, and electronic guts.

I think the difference between a TPI distributor and other HEI units is the height. TPI ones are shorter to fit under the plenum extension and low hood.


Originally Posted by bumpnzx3
Hey Jesse- I have a stock unit from an '85 tpi- coil in cap. It appears to be in good shape- with little to no play. Worked fine when I took it out of an engine a year or so ago. I can send pics if you would like. It's yours for the cost of shipping.
bumpn, I would be interested in that distributor, I need a vette TPI distributor for a conversion on a Toyota LandCruiser. PM me with a price if that's cool. Is it complete?

Last edited by CentralCoaster; Mar 15, 2006 at 09:42 PM.
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 09:42 PM
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pm sent.
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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
I think the difference between a TPI distributor and other HEI units is the height. TPI ones are shorter to fit under the plenum extension and low hood.
The part numbers I listed are directly from my "1984 - 1989 (and some 1990 applications) Chevrolet Y (Corvette) Parts and Illustration Catalog" book, number "14Y" dated "Effective April 89". Therefore these numbers are definitely for TPI (and the Crossfire) Corvettes. I don't have a non Corvette book for comparison, but I would be VERY surprised if the Corvette HEI was a unique part. The distributors assemblies are in group number 2.381. In my book, only the 1984 slows in a conventional looking group. The subsequent years are in charts on the following pages. The item at the top of the chart is the production distributor, followed by the service replacement. Those two items are followed by the distributor components, in alphabetical order. IF the assemblies are in your catalog, maybe this will help you locate them.

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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 04:09 PM
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My comment is based on info from researching thirdgen.org for my TPI swap.

I know the cap is different. Chevy probably put screws on the cap instead of tangs so they wouldn't be interchanged.

I wouldnt be surprised if the housing was the same. Although.... Do the HEI (non-TPI) housings have tapped threads, even though their caps use the tangs to hold em on?
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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
My comment is based on info from researching thirdgen.org for my TPI swap.

I know the cap is different. Chevy probably put screws on the cap instead of tangs so they wouldn't be interchanged.

I wouldnt be surprised if the housing was the same. Although.... Do the HEI (non-TPI) housings have tapped threads, even though their caps use the tangs to hold em on?
No. But the later ones with the screw down caps have the notches in the bottom so an early style cap can be used on a bolt on distributor.
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