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Low vacuum - possible causes? (LT1)

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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 11:06 PM
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Default Low vacuum - possible causes? (LT1)

I posted a similar thread yesterday, but due to only a few responses (Readeasy - as always happy to help ) I thought I should expand the topic.

The basic issue is a lack of vacuum (-5 in/hg idle, at higher RPM around 7-9 in/hg). I'm also throwing a code 34, which is low vacuum. (actually high vacuum, since it's measured negative)

I've had severe spark knock so I've been chasing a timing problem. Replaced timing set and optispark (upgrade to '95 version) and had no change.

Car has no EGR, LT headers, and other general specs listed below in sig. Based on yesterday's thread possible causes are:

Leak between intake and heads
bad cam grind
slight leak at EGR valve

Other things that were checked and OK:

compression in all cylinders
valves (and valves not seating)
MAP sensor

Old thread here: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...88&forum_id=48
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 11:27 PM
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chase the various vacuum hoses... I would not be surprised if some were bad.
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by bogus
chase the various vacuum hoses... I would not be surprised if some were bad.
I will, but two things (theoretically speaking) - 1)without EGR there are few external hoses. And 2), would a bad hose account for a ~10 in/hg drop in vacuum pressure? Those external hoses are tiny. Seems like I'd need a 1 inch hole to lost 10 in/hg.
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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 12:01 AM
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Brake booster hose is bigger.PVC hose too.
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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Redeasysport
Brake booster hose is bigger.PVC hose too.
In addition, the brake hose connects to a check valve in the brake booster. If the check valve is bad, it's a Huge leak.

If the injectors aren't properly seated in the intake, there can be a vacuum leak past the injector tips.

Make sure your rockers aren't set too tight. Might have some valves staying open just a little.

What were your compression test results? Were the readings consistent across the cylinders?

Did you do a leak down test?

Btw, spark knock can occur if the knock sensors are over torqued. Factory spec is ~11 lb/ft, max of ~15 lb/ft
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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 09:45 PM
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Default Plugged cats

Plugged cats will cause low vacium readings while cranking or running.

Jerris
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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Redeasysport
Brake booster hose is bigger.PVC hose too.
Brake booster was the first thing that came to my mind. It can have a vacumn leak a long time before any other symptoms show up. Replacing mine took care of my pulsating RPM in OD.
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 10:43 AM
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Thanks for the suggestions!

Compression is good on all cylinders, so head gasket is ok (whew). Valves are ok, we checked all the rockers again to make sure none were too tight. But again, compression is fine, so they're all seating.

No cats on this car.

I don't have the clips on the injectors, so that's a good place to start, they could be riding up. I'll also check the brake booster - what's the best way to do this?

I think it's going to be the intake, though. Hopefully I damaged or misaligned the gasket. That's an easy fix...

I also just replaced the TB. But it was running poorly long before that.
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 11:03 AM
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Did you try testing around the manifold with starter fluid or propane?
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 11:10 AM
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Oh, and I did not do a leakdown test, but I don't know that it will help. I know the car isn't holding pressure, if it weren't so loud I would think I could probably hear the leak hissing.

I plan to take some carb cleaner and go over everything. Hopefully that will expose the leak. Maybe I should use ether...with that much of a hole I could turn my car into a bomb.

Next question - could this much of a vacuum leak cause spark knock? Would the computer overcompnesate and advance timing?

In my head, if there is low vacuum the computer would see that as WOT, and dump more fuel, not lean it out. Am I thinking about this the wrong way?
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 12:35 PM
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It may be putting more fuel than necessary because it is sucking so much air trying to keep the A/F even.The ECM will do strange things when it is trying to compensate for a bad running engine.I would solve the Vacuum issue before trying to figure out anything else.It may run fine when that is fixed.

Carb cleaner will not help much on the leak either propane or starting fluid will work better.

I don't see any reason you couldn't clamp off the vacuum lines to start it and measure the vacuum.

Last edited by Redeasysport; Mar 17, 2006 at 12:38 PM.
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Jerris
Did you try testing around the manifold with starter fluid or propane?
That's today. Will report later.

No green beer for me tonight...
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Old Mar 18, 2006 | 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by ScaryFast
I'll also check the brake booster - what's the best way to do this?
Remove the brake hose from the intake and plug the intake port. If it run fine, you've narrowed the issue to the brake booster. Assuming that's the case, first thing would be to test the check valve. It's a one way valve....if air flow goes both ways, it's bad.
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Old Mar 18, 2006 | 07:44 PM
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I didn't see any mention of ignition timing.

Late or retarded ignition timing will require a large throttle opening or high IAC setting at idle. This can result in low vacuum readings.

Mixture, leaks, improper cam timing, over adjusted exhaust valves are some other potential causes.
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