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I posted a similar thread yesterday, but due to only a few responses (Readeasy - as always happy to help ) I thought I should expand the topic.
The basic issue is a lack of vacuum (-5 in/hg idle, at higher RPM around 7-9 in/hg). I'm also throwing a code 34, which is low vacuum. (actually high vacuum, since it's measured negative)
I've had severe spark knock so I've been chasing a timing problem. Replaced timing set and optispark (upgrade to '95 version) and had no change.
Car has no EGR, LT headers, and other general specs listed below in sig. Based on yesterday's thread possible causes are:
Leak between intake and heads
bad cam grind
slight leak at EGR valve
Other things that were checked and OK:
compression in all cylinders
valves (and valves not seating)
MAP sensor
chase the various vacuum hoses... I would not be surprised if some were bad.
I will, but two things (theoretically speaking) - 1)without EGR there are few external hoses. And 2), would a bad hose account for a ~10 in/hg drop in vacuum pressure? Those external hoses are tiny. Seems like I'd need a 1 inch hole to lost 10 in/hg.
Brake booster was the first thing that came to my mind. It can have a vacumn leak a long time before any other symptoms show up. Replacing mine took care of my pulsating RPM in OD.
Compression is good on all cylinders, so head gasket is ok (whew). Valves are ok, we checked all the rockers again to make sure none were too tight. But again, compression is fine, so they're all seating.
No cats on this car.
I don't have the clips on the injectors, so that's a good place to start, they could be riding up. I'll also check the brake booster - what's the best way to do this?
I think it's going to be the intake, though. Hopefully I damaged or misaligned the gasket. That's an easy fix...
I also just replaced the TB. But it was running poorly long before that.
Oh, and I did not do a leakdown test, but I don't know that it will help. I know the car isn't holding pressure, if it weren't so loud I would think I could probably hear the leak hissing.
I plan to take some carb cleaner and go over everything. Hopefully that will expose the leak. Maybe I should use ether...with that much of a hole I could turn my car into a bomb.
Next question - could this much of a vacuum leak cause spark knock? Would the computer overcompnesate and advance timing?
In my head, if there is low vacuum the computer would see that as WOT, and dump more fuel, not lean it out. Am I thinking about this the wrong way?
It may be putting more fuel than necessary because it is sucking so much air trying to keep the A/F even.The ECM will do strange things when it is trying to compensate for a bad running engine.I would solve the Vacuum issue before trying to figure out anything else.It may run fine when that is fixed.
Carb cleaner will not help much on the leak either propane or starting fluid will work better.
I don't see any reason you couldn't clamp off the vacuum lines to start it and measure the vacuum.
Last edited by Redeasysport; Mar 17, 2006 at 12:38 PM.
I'll also check the brake booster - what's the best way to do this?
Remove the brake hose from the intake and plug the intake port. If it run fine, you've narrowed the issue to the brake booster. Assuming that's the case, first thing would be to test the check valve. It's a one way valve....if air flow goes both ways, it's bad.