1991 L-98 ZF-6
Ran a search and didn't really find anything. Where are all you Innovate users mounting your LC-1's?
Responses Valued Greatly!

 

Mine is zip-tied to an R-D Cross-Frame. I'm glad this option exists
because there isn't much underneath an OEM floor pan to tie to.

The cable runs forward and up behind the SS shield for the hard
brake lines.

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Assuming that you don't have a Cross-Frame, a few thoughts come
to mind.

If you still have the OEM Cat, then take a look to see whether the
tube from the A.I.R. diverter valve that feeds air to the Cat might
be a suitable attachment point.

If not, and if you are the fussy type, look for possible attachment
points that you could use to add a fabricated bracket/hanger. By
making something out of tube or rod and adding it onto existing
fasteners, you can create a hanger suitable for strapping the LC-1
to and still be able to take it all off later without leaving any signs
it was ever there.

If you aren't the fussy type, then use self-tapping screws to hold
Adel clamps and screw these into the bottom of the floor. Everyone
together now - EEEEYEWWwwww !

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Adel Clamp

 

Do not have factory cat or air pipe, but definitely like the adel idea. How far (inch wise) should the unit remain away from headers to stay in a suitable temperature range?
Thanks for the replies

 

I don't know the maximum temp rating of the housing of the control
unit. I expect you could get some input from Innovate through the
forum on their website.

In my case, the WB-O2 sensor is downstream from the headers and
I have the O2 harness come out on the driver's side, cross over the
'X' formed by the Cross-Frame and run forward on the outside of the
C-F to the LC-1 control unit. The cable from the LC-1 runs forward
and gets to within perhaps 10" of the SS primaries but the cable is
on the cool side of the SS brake line shield as it runs up to the area
of the master cylinder.

You can use Thermotec or DEI shielding products to sheath the
cables/harnesses. I suppose you can also use the same stuff to
insulate the control unit, but my instincts tell me that the electronics
in the control might be more sensitive to heat than the harnesses. I
wouldn't want the harnesses to see more than 250-275 F MAX unless
Innovate told me they were good for more than this. By extension,
the control should run cooler than 250-275 unless otherwise advised.

Painted steel headers will radiate more heat than coated ones, Stainless
headers probably lie somewhere between painted and coated.

If you want, you can get Tempilstik crayons from welding supply outlets
and paint objects with these, then observe whether the markings
discolour. Or if you have a thermometer that uses a k-type
thermocouple, you could set up the probe and gauge, then monitor for
temps.

Of just put it where it looks like it will run cool and then check for
signs of charring.

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Thanks for the reply!

 

I mounted my control unit to my bread box eliminator with some velcro, but i can not help with a 91.

 

Where did you pass the WB-O2 harness through into the interior and
how long was the 'O2 to LC-1 unit' cable on yours?

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I obviously do not have one but Bread Box?

 

i am installing an lc1 on my 91, but it is for my dfi so i really dont need to send it into the interior of the car. i will mount it somewhere below the stock computer. i may run an aux out cable from the lc1 into the interior for an a/f ratio gauge, but thats down the road, cant do everything at once

 

Rectangular molded object on the passenger
side of the dash of earlier C4s where a glove
box would normally be.

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I guess you were asking me.

I routed mine to the passenger side, over the a/c unit to where the bellows for the wiring going into the door is, then to the inside.

As far as how long it was, it was just the right length for this, not much at all to spare.

I also installed the aux box, xd air fuel gauge, boost gauge and fuel pressure there.

I plan to remount the control unit soon, as i can do every thing from the xd gauge except calibrate the unit.

It is a very good peice of equipment, it reads dead on with my Snap-On four gas unit, which is lab grade.

Be sure to do the relay to drop power out when the starter is engauged.

If i can help with any thing else, let me know.

Greg N

 

I wonder whether we are talking about the same thing.

The control unit of the LC-1 is the palm-sized lump that the WB-O2
plugs into. This contains all the workings present in the LM-1.

Are you perhaps refering to the optional AuxBox? I can see how that
can be mounted inside - the harness that extends out of the LC-1 is
several feet long. My WB-O2 harness isn't very long, certainly not
enough to run forward, up and back into the cabin - the connector
would require a sizable hole to pass through, too.

Also, can you comment more about wiring the LC-1 to drop out on
starting? (Mine is powered from a connection I added to my aux fan
relay - I opened the relay and soldered to a terminal inside rather than
splice into the harness. I believe that the OEM ignition circuit cuts
power to most non-essential circuits in the start position.) Did you
have or hear about trouble with hook-ups that are powered during
starting?

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The middle image illustrates the short length of the O2 harness
from the sensor to the plug.



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You are right, i have the lm-1, with the xd-16 gauge and the lma-3 aux box and i belive you have you have the lc1 with the xd gauge?

They recommend having a relay with the lm1, does your instructions say anything about this?

I would take the power right off of the battery with a fuse and then to you lc1.

In general you do not want most electronics being powered up during cranking

Yes some have had some trouble, at least with the lm1 not being wired to drop out during cranking.

I know with at least the lm1, you can not splice the cable and make it longer. I think "Innovate" could be more help with this, i know they make a longer cable for the lm-1, maybe they do for the lc1.

 

Can one of you guy take a pic of the LC1 instruction and email it to me
Bruce383@rochester.rr.com because I lost my LC1 installation instruction. Thanks

Bruce

 

Download it here.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...Manual_1.5.pdf

 

My main configuration is with the LC-1 as an input for a
datalogger. I recently received a gauge to try on a temp basis.

Powering directly from the battery through a fuse leaves the LC-1
and by extension, the WB-O2 continually 'on'. At a minimum, a
switch should be in the circuit.

I was converting to a heated O2 at the same time and needed a
switched circuit for that, as well as for the LC-1. The Aux Fan
relay on the inner fender of an '89 is ideally located - I chose to
pull it apart because I didn't like the idea of splicing into the
harness. As it turned out, going into the relay proved to be
easier that unwrapping the harness appeared to be. (We'll
see whether I blow fuses next summer when the aux fan, heated
sensor and LC-1 are all drawing at the same time.)

Many different ways to skin a cat, this happens to be the one
I picked.

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Innovate's stuff is pretty neat, and there customer service is outstanding!

I wish i could afford one of there new DL-32, 32 channel recorders, when they were talking about it last year i think it was going to be about $2,000 US, but i have not checked on it in a while.

I do not think you will have a problem with blown fuses.

Do you mean by continually on, just when the motor is running?

You are 100% correct about there being many ways to accomplish the same thing, I hope i did not come across to as trying to tell you how to do your install. If so that was not my intention.

Good luck.