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Just to test the theory of cooling the intake, I went ahead and tried it out.
I put frozen gel packs on top of a wet rag on the intake and the temp of the top of the manifold, LT1, went from 175 (drove around for a half an hour, engine temp 185, oil 200), to 125, and gel packs are still frozen, well slushy. The bottom of the manifold was 170 degrees. The time from putting on to checking was half an hour.
I used a Raytek laser temp gun.
If there is any other thing to check while doing this little experiment, other than track (thats next week), let me know and I will try.
Iceing the intake is as old as dino poop-it really works, whereas going with a 160 thermo is . Try dry ice-BUT wear friggin gloves-like heavy rubber ones
Just to test the theory of cooling the intake, I went ahead and tried it out.
I put frozen gel packs on top of a wet rag on the intake and the temp of the top of the manifold, LT1, went from 175 (drove around for a half an hour, engine temp 185, oil 200), to 125, and gel packs are still frozen, well slushy. The bottom of the manifold was 170 degrees. The time from putting on to checking was half an hour.
I used a Raytek laser temp gun.
If there is any other thing to check while doing this little experiment, other than track (thats next week), let me know and I will try.
Let us know what if any difference you get on your time slips, thanks joe
Just to test the theory of cooling the intake, I went ahead and tried it out.
I put frozen gel packs on top of a wet rag on the intake and the temp of the top of the manifold, LT1, went from 175 (drove around for a half an hour, engine temp 185, oil 200), to 125, and gel packs are still frozen, well slushy. ..............If there is any other thing to check while doing this little experiment, other than track (thats next week), let me know and I will try.
The whole problem with icing the intake is that it is for track only.....as you observed the ice is already melted in just 30 minutes or so......so if you want to artifically go fast at the track it is a tried and proven technique....but not very effective at the unforseen need for performance on the street...
For me personally it is BS since it is not practical for the street!!!!!
Not flaming track performance, but this is a good example of the sometimes huge difference in what a car does at the track, but doesn't relate at all to street performance......
Old question...is a car with an iced manifold bone stock....opinions vary
Drive around in FL heat and heavy traffic with a 180 thermostat and there is a substantial benefit in going to the 160 thermostat. No BS involved.
Bullcrap!!!!!!!! The 160 stat will be wide open just like your 180 stat and your coolant temp will settle at the temperature where the radiator gets rid of heat as fast as the engine makes it which is above 180 F.
Heat transfer from the intake manifold to the air passing through it is very low and most of the transfer only occurs where the air is close to the metal, the, "wetted surface". Air is a very poor conductor of heat so using ice to cool the intake manifold doesn't cool the air passing through it very much. I would expect larger variations in successive runs than between runs with and without the ice.
Iceing the intake is as old as dino poop-it really works, whereas going with a 160 thermo is . Try dry ice-BUT wear friggin gloves-like heavy rubber ones
packing your intake with cold dino poop may not smell too good but the result is cooler intake air, which is denser air, which is more combustable air in the cylinder....
true, but it also depends on the fan efficiency, etc.
A lower T-stat just requires MORE time to warm up to operating temperatures, since coolant is flowing through the radiator "sooner" than a 180* T-stat would... but we're talking minutes here, and once the car heats up then it all comes down to the efficiency of the coolant system (fan, rad, coolant mixture, etc).
One of the bigger drawbacks to a 160* T-Stat is that with long-distance interstate travelling in cooler weather, the coolant temp will dip well below 180-190 degrees and become detrimental to overall engine efficiency.
Bullcrap!!!!!!!! The 160 stat will be wide open just like your 180 stat and your coolant temp will settle at the temperature where the radiator gets rid of heat as fast as the engine makes it which is above 180 F.
why do people still think a lower temp t-stat == cooler running engine??
Romanstud, keep in mind that Steve has a LT1 which is reverse flow. A 160 tstat acts like a 180 in a L98 due to this. (this is why the factory t-stat is 180 and not 195 on the LT1) Also, I myself, Mackey, Mr Mojo, and several others have seen that staging the car in the 160 or a little less makes more power then 180-200 range. This has been proven time and time again. Now I wont argue wear or emissions by running cooler, but power it does help.
The whole problem with icing the intake is that it is for track only.....as you observed the ice is already melted in just 30 minutes or so......so if you want to artifically go fast at the track it is a tried and proven technique....but not very effective at the unforseen need for performance on the street...
For me personally it is BS since it is not practical for the street!!!!!
Not flaming track performance, but this is a good example of the sometimes huge difference in what a car does at the track, but doesn't relate at all to street performance......
Old question...is a car with an iced manifold bone stock....opinions vary
Looking forward to your track results
This is all its for, results. Proves that cool air helps an engine? And that the cooler manifold assists in getting cooler air.
Modifications are what people do to make there cars wuicker. If this works, then a cold air system would be viable, even tough ours are VERY limited to very few availablefor C4's.
Track will be Friday, depending on Weather , Oahu Hawaii (DA averages around 1200, yes at sea level, 88% Humidity, 29.9 Bar)
Romanstud, keep in mind that Steve has a LT1 which is reverse flow. A 160 tstat acts like a 180 in a L98 due to this. (this is why the factory t-stat is 180 and not 195 on the LT1) Also, I myself, Mackey, Mr Mojo, and several others have seen that staging the car in the 160 or a little less makes more power then 180-200 range. This has been proven time and time again. Now I wont argue wear or emissions by running cooler, but power it does help.
why do people still think a lower temp t-stat == cooler running engine??
Lemme see..... I run a 160* thermostat. During the summer months (90*+ temps) the coolant temp during highway cruising is always in the mid 70s with 176* typical. With the OEM thermostat it was mid 190s. In my book, a 20* drop is a difference and I'm pretty sure that 176* is cooler than 19x degrees. I could be mistaken....
What a thermostat doesn't affect is the coolant temp during periods of extended idle when there's no airflow past the radiator. Temps will continue to climb until the fans turn on.
Lemme see..... I run a 160* thermostat. During the summer months (90*+ temps) the coolant temp during highway cruising is always in the mid 70s with 176* typical. With the OEM thermostat it was mid 190s. In my book, a 20* drop is a difference and I'm pretty sure that 176* is cooler than 19x degrees. I could be mistaken....
What a thermostat doesn't affect is the coolant temp during periods of extended idle when there's no airflow past the radiator. Temps will continue to climb until the fans turn on.
Wow! well i'll de dipped in dino poop! Yes, 176* is cooler than 19x*. But if you take a 160* and a 180* t-stat, drop them in a pot of boiling water(212*), they will both be in full "open" position, and allow the same amount of coolant flow......you may have another variable assisting in your cooler running engine....but what do I know....
An iced intake would still be considered stock because your not actually adding anything onto the car physically, its nothing more than a temperature change. If it were a performance radiator or water pump, then thats not stock.
Wow! well i'll de dipped in dino poop! Yes, 176* is cooler than 19x*. But if you take a 160* and a 180* t-stat, drop them in a pot of boiling water(212*), they will both be in full "open" position, and allow the same amount of coolant flow......you may have another variable assisting in your cooler running engine....but what do I know....
The discussion is not about flow rate at an arbitrary temperature. If it is, then let's say we compare flow rate at 175*. Which thermostat will be flowing more....the one that's open or the one that's not? The issue was whether or not changing to a 160* thermostat will have an affect on coolant temps. I've offered evidence that changing to a 160* thermostat (with no other changes) will result in lower coolant temps on LT1/4 engines during cruise conditions. I've also stated that during extended idle there's no significant benefit. I did this swap when the car was still stock, including the radiator. Plenty of others have realized the same results with stock and modified cars. GM by design forces the engines to run hotter for better emissions and durability. The 160* thermostat simply utilizes the capacity of the stock systems to their fullest extent. The bottom line is that a change to the 160* t-stat does have an affect. What evidence do you have that changing to the 160* thermostat does nothing during cruise conditions?
Drive around in FL heat and heavy traffic with a 180 thermostat and there is a substantial benefit in going to the 160 thermostat. No BS involved.
Actually it's complete
It will take a longer time to get to temp because the stat opens sooner but it simply will not run cooler. The temp of the stat has zero influence in the sustained operating temp.
I know a little bit about hot weather.
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