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I replaced my front pads and rotors on my 86 a short while back and now I'm on to the rear brakes. For some reason I seem to get the impression they are a little trickier to do than the fronts. Do you have to mess with the park brake at all when just replacing rear rotors and pads? I would just as soon leave it alone if at all possible. Also, my rear rotors seem more rusted than the fronts and I am concerned about removing them if they are stuck. I've seen a bunch of good articles and a tech tip about replacing the fronts, but nothing on the rear brakes. I don't know whether that is due to the fact that they are basically the same process or just not performed as frequently. Any help and tips would be appreciated. Thanks.
On my 90 and now my 94 neither is difficult to change in the front or rear. Since you did the fronts you won't have a problem doing the rears. The parking brake is not affected by changing the pads. Have the rotors turned and put some new pads on it. If the rotor doesn't want to come off give it a few love taps with a block of wood and a hammer to break it free.
I don't know if the 87 shares the exact same rear brakes as the 1986 car, but I'll post a tutorial with pics tomorrow as to replacing the pads. I've been meaning to bevel the pads back there.
Look for a post on how to do that later tomorrow night. Say 9ish.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Same process, unless yours are rusted bad like mine.
Advice of another member was to first loosen the lugs to hand tight, then do a quick brake check. This should loosen the rotors.
Also helps to adjust the star screw to loosen the ebrake. Look through the hole when it's turned to about 11 oclock on the passenger side, it's around there somewhere.
On my 88, I did not have to do anything to the parking brake.
However, I did not open the bleed screw when pushing the piston back in and ended up blowing the master cylinder. I have never had to do that before but sure wish I had. Would have saved me some money.
You might want to open the bleeder before pushing the piston back in as a safety precaution.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Originally Posted by thomastl
On my 88, I did not have to do anything to the parking brake.
However, I did not open the bleed screw when pushing the piston back in and ended up blowing the master cylinder. I have never had to do that before but sure wish I had. Would have saved me some money.
You might want to open the bleeder before pushing the piston back in as a safety precaution.
This shouldn't damage the master cylinder, it should just fill back into the reservoirs. And maybe spray out the top if the cap isn't on. But that's perfectly normal.
Your right in it should not have hurt the master cylinder.
However, Before the job, everything was working fine. After doing the rear brakes, the pedal went to the floor and nothing I did would fix it. Replaced master cylinder and everything was fine again.
Now, one thing to note on my application - the drivers side rear piston did require a little more pressure than normal to get started so I think it may have been stuck. Maybe the extra pressure blew it. Don't know.
On cars with ABS brakes, it is very important to loosen the bleeder (or hose if the bleeder screw is messed up) when you push the brake piston back in. There are some very small passageways that you don't want to shove fluid the wrong way through. At least this is what has been preached to me. It is worth doing just as a precaution.
I replaced my front pads and rotors on my 86 a short while back and now I'm on to the rear brakes. For some reason I seem to get the impression they are a little trickier to do than the fronts. Do you have to mess with the park brake at all when just replacing rear rotors and pads? I would just as soon leave it alone if at all possible. Also, my rear rotors seem more rusted than the fronts and I am concerned about removing them if they are stuck. I've seen a bunch of good articles and a tech tip about replacing the fronts, but nothing on the rear brakes. I don't know whether that is due to the fact that they are basically the same process or just not performed as frequently. Any help and tips would be appreciated. Thanks.
Im in the same boat you are, but I have a 94 6spd coupe. Did fronts no problem - couldnt believe how simple - pull the spring clip & pin, compress, pull old pads, mount new pads, mount caliper, insert pin/clip ... done!!!
The Rears are completely different set up - parking brake and bolts. Best proceedure would be appreciated. gonna try and tackle it this weekend - but I dont want to FU the parking brake, especially since I have a 6spd and it works excellent now.
On 84 to 87 rears you have the emergancy brake set-up as a drum brake inside the the hub of the rotor, 88 up dropped the drum brake from the rotor and use a system to lock the caliper mechanichly.
As some-one else posted you will probably have to find the star adjuster through the hole in the rotor and release some of the pressure from the shoes before you can remove the rotor. It is REALLY hard to get it to turn(the star adj) using screw driver...At best you may get it turn 2notches at a time...the amount of turns will depend on how much the shoes have worn into the drum/rotor-hub. When you get the rotor off run the star adj all the way in by fingers to make life easier when putting the rotor on. This will adjust when you apply the brakes going in revearse just like the old fashioned drums of yester-years. ALOT of people don't know that ALL(stock) 84s to 87s have drom brakes since they see the 4 calipers and rotors but they do. This kind of job is when it makes a difference to have at least an average manual that covers your year. Good luck!
BTW the rest of the caliper and rotor comes off just like the front.