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I just pulled into my driveway and there was smoke from the engine compartment. Upon inspection it is the A/C clutch that has fried and the smoke was the rubber between the clutch melting.
A/C clutch does not work any more but the compressor still turns with no dragging when turned by hand.
Checked the preassure and it is OK static so the seal did not fry as well.
Looks like all I need to change is the clutch.
Talked to an AC technition and he said that on the LT1 you just need to remove the 10 mm polt in the center and pry the old one off the splined shaft. Dod some research on this forum and see that when installing the new one I need to establish .020 clearance on the clutch with shims when putting on the new one.
Does anyone have any words of wisdom on this instalation or where best to buy a new one?
Dealership just quoted me $289.00 for the new clutch and bearing.
You can be good used compressor with clutch very reasonably, which would be my choice. Replacing just the clutch is tricky and usually the heat of the clutch has already damaged the compressor front seal. Check vette2vette.com, or post a parts wanted on this forum. Ebay is even an option as they are frequently listed there. What I don't know is what the shipping or customs problems might be for you.
If the price quoted to you includes the labor, that's great! Otherwise, the LT motors - per the shop manual - require that you discharge and disconnect the main hose. It runs right across the face of the clutch and clearance is a bit tight. If you want to tackle this yourself, get ahold of some oil filter wrench pliers to grasp the outer hub while you wrench off the 10mm nut. Put your hand underneath it (to catch any shims) and wriggle it off. Pulley and coil are held on by snap rings so use some snap ring pliers to get them out. Put it all back on in reverse order making sure the snap rings are fully seated. Use shims (you'll have to buy them separately if you're using the OEM clutch assembly) to get the .020 clearance. That usually entails some trial and error so plan on taking the hub off a couple of times until you get it right. When you're done, torque the retaining nut to no more than 10 ft/lbs. RESIST the temptation to crank it down as that will simply crush the shims decreasing the clearance.
If the price quoted to you includes the labor, that's great! Otherwise, the LT motors - per the shop manual - require that you discharge and disconnect the main hose. It runs right across the face of the clutch and clearance is a bit tight. If you want to tackle this yourself, get ahold of some oil filter wrench pliers to grasp the outer hub while you wrench off the 10mm nut. Put your hand underneath it (to catch any shims) and wriggle it off. Pulley and coil are held on by snap rings so use some snap ring pliers to get them out. Put it all back on in reverse order making sure the snap rings are fully seated. Use shims (you'll have to buy them separately if you're using the OEM clutch assembly) to get the .020 clearance. That usually entails some trial and error so plan on taking the hub off a couple of times until you get it right. When you're done, torque the retaining nut to no more than 10 ft/lbs. RESIST the temptation to crank it down as that will simply crush the shims decreasing the clearance.
Thanks, the new one is supposed to come in on Monday so I intend to tackle it next weekend.
The price is for the parts and I went ahead and ordered them.
I was thinking of CAREFULLY bending the ac pipes to give a little more clearance if possible. The system is still fully charged and was working good up until I pulled it into the driveway.
Careful, gentle bends are ok - kinks will restrict it and send operating pressures soaring, so just take it slow and everything will come out at least as good as what the dealer would do - probably better.