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I know this has been posted many times but will someone please post the instructions for changing the plugs on a 92 LT1. What tools and the angles to reach the plugs? Any tips will be highly appreciated.
Mines an 87-but there just about the same on all SBC with TPI, the drivers side is the easiest, all plugs on this side can be removed using the plug socket and a short extension.The passenger side is more difficult, I remove the wheel well, something like 8-10 screws. I start with #8, I put the plug socket on and then use a 3/4 box wrench to losen it, 6 is pretty easy as is 4, #2 is why I pull the well-I can then get a long extension with a swivel on it. NOW here's the most important things-after gapping add a little anti sieze, get yourself a piece of fuel hose that fits SNUGGLY onto the plug-I use 4-5 inches, this allows you to start the plug and snug it as tight as finger possible without taking the chance of cross stripping the plug in the plug hole.
Good luck.
5/8 plug socket....3/8 drive ratchet....short extension... and a 10 or 12 mm for the drivers side middle inner wheel well piece(the one around the top of the shock).... I have found it easier to get to 5 and 7 by removing that piece rather than jamming a hand down past the asr
You dont need the extension for all of them.... you will be able to tell which ones you do and which ones you dont.
My first time it took awhile...... Got it to under an hour now
Last edited by Powerdrive; Mar 26, 2006 at 02:25 PM.
One additional tip I haven't seen on this thread is to put a thin film of Dielectric Grease on the plug wire boot to keep it from sticking to the plug you are installing when you go to take it off next time. Helps alot!
Use the grease.....I also forgot to tell 'ya to apply a thin coat of anti-seize to the threads of the new plugs... if not they could seize up in the aluminum heads
I know this has been posted many times but will someone please post the instructions for changing the plugs on a 92 LT1. What tools and the angles to reach the plugs? Any tips will be highly appreciated.
Thanks!
On driver's side unbolt the ASR unit, bracket and all and move it aside. You don;t even need to disconnect the cables. The only really tough plug will be the #8, pass side rear. Take the oil dipstick out (not the tube, just the dipstick) to keep from breaking it while trying to reach back into the plug.
.....apply a thin coat of anti-seize to the threads of the new plugs... if not they could seize up in the aluminum heads
Because of the heat factor, copper anti-seize can work better than the regular silver-colored stuff. If you don't already have it, I got mine at the local NAPA store, and the other big guys carry it, too.
When I did mine I found the #8 to be the worst. Here is what I did ... I used a ratchet with a pivot at the head so the handle was not fixed in a right angle to the socket. This allowed me to position the handle to miss any obstacle. Once the plug was removed, the easy part, I discovered the easiest way to reinstall the plug was to use a 3 inch piece of rubber fuel line attached to the end of the plug. This gave me the extra gripping surface to screw the plug back in since this is the least accessible area of the whole spark plug replacement process. Also, I found it much easier to position myself on the driver side of the car, laying across the engine and reaching down over the back of the engine. This is where the short piece of rubber hose made it easy to get the plug in not to mention my fingers and wrist liked that position much better.
On the driver's side I just removed the ASR and had absolutely no problem replacing all of the plugs ... it actually went quicker then the right side. Total time was about 2 hours but this was the first time it replaced plugs on my 92.
In summary a ratchet with a pivoting head, 3 inch piece of rubber hose, laying across the engine from the driver's side to reach the #8, and some anti-seize should make the job fairly easy.
It took me forever the first time. Then I removed the black wheel well skirts and it was so easy then. The first time it took me 4 hours. the second with skirts off it took 20 minutes. There are angles you will not be able to deal with unless the skirts are off.
Because of the heat factor, copper anti-seize can work better than the regular silver-colored stuff. If you don't already have it, I got mine at the local NAPA store, and the other big guys carry it, too.
Good info.... never had any issues with the silver stuff though.... Honestly I didnt even know they made any other.. Ill look for it next time
On the driver's side I just removed the ASR and had absolutely no problem replacing all of the plugs
That is why I remove the middle wheel well piece.... I just leave the ASR where its at.... Differnt strokes for differnt folks