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What has anyone found to be the easiest way to remove the pin for the Hurst shifter? From the side , bottom , top? Looking at the diagram it appears that this is the only thing that connects the shifter. Is that right or am I missing something.
The advise I was given, should the pin not want to push out from the bottom to the top, is as follows, move the shift lever into 3rd, get a long punch from the top and hit the pin out from the top to bottom. You may get it out far enough to grab it with pliers and pull it out the rest of the way. It works both ways with a good pin. Bad pins are peened over on the bottom and will not push out the top. You can hit it hard.
I thought you took it from the bottom like jerris said. Its a tight space but you need to work it out and take the top pieace and boot out of the console
Got the console apart...the upper and lower boots ready. gained access to the shifter linkage and spent nearly two hours trying to get the pin out...
I was working in a pit outside and darkness and possible rain made me reconsider proceeding. Reassembled the shifter and some of the boots and called it a day. The drift and hammer did not seem to budge the pin from the bottom to the top.
I plan on attempting when I have a full day to make sure I can complete the full job.
I'll keep reading the thread for the latest suggestions
I used an appropriately sized constant-diameter punch. You've really got to smack your punch hard to get that pin to move. (Think Mr. Miyagi hammering nails into a 2x4 with one blow. )
I remember I kept hesitantly hitting harder and harder until I finally put on my big-girl panties, bowed-up and smacked the crud out of it. Once it budged, it was fairly easy to remove with much less striking force.
I must have actually knocked something internally a little out of whack, because my first drive after installation produced some pretty scary noises from the ZF. They disappeared after I went through the gears a few times, though, and I have had no problems since. The Hurst shifter is great. (I picked up an authentic Hurst **** to round out the package for about $30, too; looks nice.)
I guess to ease things a little, you could perhaps heat it up from the bottom a little.
When I put the ripper in my 92, I had to drill the pin out. I bought a long drill bit from Lowes and carefully began to drill out the pin. After I had drilled through approximately 1/3 of the pin, the pin began to rotate in it's bore. It was easy to remove at that point.
I took the partially destroyed/drilled pin with me back to Lowes and tried to match it up with some kind of aluminum or steel dowel with no luck. I finally bought some aluminum dowel that was just a hair too small and cut a piece off to replace the pin. I never had a problem, but in retrospect, I should of just ordered a replacement pin from the dealer.