C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Optical sensor from hell on 92 LT1

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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 11:35 PM
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Default Optical sensor from hell on 92 LT1

Bought my wife (snowhite) a very nice 92 triple white vert with only 36K on the clock. Bought it in Houston and got it for a fair price. The car runs great with a few little age-related bugs...all easily fixed. However the first time I wash it (It's HER car, but I get to wash it), we get about 5 miles, eat lunch, and it WILL NOT RUN. Does't want to start, but it does. Runs rough, dies about a block later and will NOt start. A freind stops to help and uses compressed air and starting fluid to get it running. Got it home (cussing most of the way), and did some research. It seems that the general developed a 'more dependable' ignition system with an optical type trigger which does NOT like moisture in any form. (odd, since it is located directly beneath the water pump weep hole)
I saw an 'improved' optical cable in Zippers claiming that it was much more resistant to moisture. My questions is: How hard is this item to replace? I think I've read that you have to remove the water pump, belts and several other components. Anyone done one and have any tips?
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 99mallett
Bought my wife (snowhite) a very nice 92 triple white vert with only 36K on the clock. Bought it in Houston and got it for a fair price. The car runs great with a few little age-related bugs...all easily fixed. However the first time I wash it (It's HER car, but I get to wash it), we get about 5 miles, eat lunch, and it WILL NOT RUN. Does't want to start, but it does. Runs rough, dies about a block later and will NOt start. A freind stops to help and uses compressed air and starting fluid to get it running. Got it home (cussing most of the way), and did some research. It seems that the general developed a 'more dependable' ignition system with an optical type trigger which does NOT like moisture in any form. (odd, since it is located directly beneath the water pump weep hole)
I saw an 'improved' optical cable in Zippers claiming that it was much more resistant to moisture. My questions is: How hard is this item to replace? I think I've read that you have to remove the water pump, belts and several other components. Anyone done one and have any tips?
Done mine twice. not fun. You will find some detailed threads in here for replacing the opti spark. Yours has GenI opti, strongly suggest you uprade to GenII (vented opti). Dynaspark also making good unit, little pricey, but not out of sight. Don't buy some cheap version, there is too much work involved in replacing it and good unit (ac delco or dynaspark) is good for 100,000 miles as long as you dont hose it down.
Yes, you have to pull water pump, belt, and belt tensioner off and slide crank pulley forward until it touches the steering rack in order to replace the opti. First time thru figure 5-8 hrs, some busted knuckles and 1/2 case beer. If you do plug wires at sametime (recommended) you also have to move p/s pump forward in order to route the d/s wires.
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by aminnich
Dynaspark also making good unit, little pricey, but not out of sight. Don't buy some cheap version, there is too much work involved in replacing it and good unit (ac delco or dynaspark) is good for 100,000 miles as long as you dont hose it down.
A Dynaspark retails at 599 plus shipping. A dynaspark will work totally submerged in water. Hose it down all you want Not an ac delco though. Dynasparks should last past 100k if installed properly.
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 01:03 AM
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http://www.corvettefever.com/howto/16758/
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 03:21 AM
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Same thing happened to me. Upgraded to a sealed Gen II opti when I had the engine out for a rebuild.
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 04:23 AM
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Im not a mechanic. i do most of my work on my own mostly because i have a lot of time and want to learn. Ive done waterpump/optisparks many times (opti just twice mainly due to failure but waterpump like 20x switching back and forth with a stocker and electric). After doing it once or twice.. its so very easy. Honestly i aint kidding. If you know how to turn a wratchet its very easy.

remove intake hose, remove belt, coolant lines.. 6 bolts and waterpump (have a lil patience here all it requires is the right length sockets and a swivel head for one of the bolts), loosen 3 damper/crank pulley bolts about 1mm from the face of the pulley. crank motor over for 3 seconds (vibration will loosen pulley from hub). remove bolts and pulley should come off. voila.. there's your optispark.

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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by DYNASPARK
...Hose it down all you want Not an ac delco though. ...
When I installed a later vented Opti-Spark on my '92, I sealed it thoroughly.
I test it about every six months by plugging the air supply hose from the air cleaner with a vacuum guage. Then, with a hand vacuum pump, I pull a vacuum on it and watch how long it can hold a vacuum. If it can maintain a vacuum for 15 minutes, I figure no water can get in.
If air can't get in, water can't get in.
I installed it about 7 years ago, and wash it all the time.
No problems with water intrusion.

Tom Piper
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by DYNASPARK
A Dynaspark retails at 599 plus shipping. A dynaspark will work totally submerged in water. Hose it down all you want Not an ac delco though. Dynasparks should last past 100k if installed properly.
New AC Delco GenII is $385 at Autozone. Yours is $599 plus shipping let's say total is $630, and I have to wait for the delivery. Exactly what do I get for the extra $245.00?
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