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Thanks, does anyone know where exactly on the car the tail light ground wires ground on the frame?
I think they actually ground inside the car by the halo pillar on the passenger side. I'd have to look at an extra rear car lighting harness I have around the shop. I remove it from a car and recall having to unscrew the grounds inside the car. My memory is fading...oh no!!!
I think they actually ground inside the car by the halo pillar on the passenger side. I'd have to look at an extra rear car lighting harness I have around the shop. I remove it from a car and recall having to unscrew the grounds inside the car. My memory is fading...oh no!!!
Art
I pulled the harness out and it indeed has a pretty large ground coming out of the loom where the passenger side rear glass defroster wire comes out of the harness. So what this probably means is the tailight grounds are probably tapped and crimped onto this main ground wire. The only way to really trace the grounds out is to unwrap the convoluted tubing off the wiring. This is next to impossible considering how the wiring is attached to the car under the bumper. My experience with opens and lighting has taken me right to the tailight connector. Testing the continuity between the bulb housing ground and chassis ground. To test if the housing is bad you'll have to strip open the ground wire on the pigtail behind the connector. Now you can check the continuity of the wire to chassis ground and from the connector to the skinned wire behind the bulb housing. Just tape up the wire if everything is ok there. If that's where the problem is then you'll have to cut off the pigtail and splice in a new bulb housing. It could be in the harness but I'd isolate it first.
Alright, I tried testing everything. I replaced the bulbs on the left rear and one left front. Now, after replacing the fuse 4 times when I turn the park lights on none of them come on, front or rear. When I turn on the hazard lights all blink and the arrows on the dash blink correctly. Maybe in the turn flasher or turn-hazard switch assembly? What do you guys think?
The hazard circuit has its own 20 amp fuse and when the hazard switch is on, power is switched off to the turn signals and the turn signal lamps front and rear are supplied 12v through the hazard flasher. If you had a short in one of the lamps/wiring, or a bad ground causing the left rear lamp not to flash left turns, then that lamp would also not light with the hazard switch on and the hazard fuse would blow too. I conclude that your lamp wiring is ok and that your problem must exist in the turn signal switch. Also, the turn signal fuse is 15 amps and this may be the cause of the 10 amp fuse you installed to blow (too low rated fuse, should be 15 amps, not 10).
The hazard circuit has its own 20 amp fuse and when the hazard switch is on, power is switched off to the turn signals and the turn signal lamps front and rear are supplied 12v through the hazard flasher. If you had a short in one of the lamps/wiring, or a bad ground causing the left rear lamp not to flash left turns, then that lamp would also not light with the hazard switch on and the hazard fuse would blow too. I conclude that your lamp wiring is ok and that your problem must exist in the turn signal switch. Also, the turn signal fuse is 15 amps and this may be the cause of the 10 amp fuse you installed to blow (too low rated fuse, should be 15 amps, not 10).
Thanks jfb, I don't know what the hell I did but now all light are working correctly, CASE CLOSED. Sh** yeah, This saves my hair from being pulled out. I think just by replacing the left front park bulb it fixed the problem. It was burnt out. When I turn the switch left the arrow on the dash blinks correctly and the tail light and front lights blink correctly. All the 10a fuses were blown when I was testing the tail lights so I must have grounded them somehow. Thanks to all that have helped. Only to find out to replace a light bulb. Glad the wiring is fine.