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This past winter was the first time I pulled an engine apart.I'm now addicted.I would like to work on a smallblock that I could possibly drop into the 93 in a year or 2. I see alot of guys running 383 strokers. How about a 396...
Right now, I would just like to look for a bare block but could someone inform me what to look for? LT1/LT4 396?
A 406 is a 400 block bored .030" over. I have a pair of AFR 195cc heads on mine. I am not sure if the water passages on LT1 and LT4 heads are different or not. But its a free 23 cubic inches and if you decide to stroke to a 396" in a 350" block, (+1/8" over the 383" crank) you get to 420" in a 400 block.
EDIT: Forgot to mention, I have 6" rods in my 406.
how come i dont hear a lot about people running 396s? Is it that much more expensive? Does the 13 extra cubes make enough power over the 383 to make up for the extra cost in parts? which would be better for a low speed tourque engine??
Sorry one more question: Does the added angle between the rod and piston put added stress on the engine, enough that u might significantly shorten the life span?
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
I'm building a 388. And no, it is not a 3.75" stroke bored .060". It's a 3.80" stroke w/ +.030" pistons with a compression height for a 3.75" stroke. This will zero deck the pistons w/o cutting the block and the resulting PITA of fitting the heads and intake properly after major decking. I'm building it not only for a good power increase but also for better combustion efficiency and all of the advantages that go with that.
how come i dont hear a lot about people running 396s? Is it that much more expensive? Does the 13 extra cubes make enough power over the 383 to make up for the extra cost in parts? which would be better for a low speed tourque engine??
Sorry one more question: Does the added angle between the rod and piston put added stress on the engine, enough that u might significantly shorten the life span?
i built a 396 a few months ago...
383 vs 396 cost the same in parts, if you buy quality stuff
what is more problematic, you will have to clearance the block more for the 396 (3.875 vs. 3.75 stroke)..the amount of a stock block clearancing is limited through the water jackets in the oil pan rail..
wow, there's alot of good information here. I would love to work on a 406 but I think a 396 is plenty, especially if I want to add an ATI procharger.. But thats another thread.
whats a bare 396 block go for? Am I better finding a balanced rotating assembly with forged internals?
check strokermotor.com or shafiroff.com its best to call them, if its possible for u buy a new GM or Dart bare block nad han buy the rotating assembly, and do ur work at ur local machinists.
OR just buy a complete short block this way sometimes u save a dime and piece of mind. Call the above guys.
A call is way better than an email. Many companies do not respond to email inquiries(never understood why they offer their email address). I suspect too many "what if" questions leading to no sales.
Buy the best parts you can afford. They are not much more and can take a lot more punishment. Good luck with your project.
whats a bare 396 block go for? Am I better finding a balanced rotating assembly with forged internals?
Don't look for a 396 block. You want a LT1 block (one from a 93 to 97 camaro would be fine). To get the displacement up to 396 a machine shop will need to bore the cylinders to 4.030 (stock is 4.00) then you need a one peice rear main seal crank with a 3.875 stroke (stock is 3.50). I believe all 3.875 cranks are forged, but if you go with a 383 you can find cast cranks with a 3.750 stroke (not as strong as forged, but not as expensive). Because of the longer stroke on the 396 the block will need more work ($$) and since your spending that much already it doesn't make since to go with cheap pistons or rods. Here's a few pics of the bottom of my 396 . Here's what it looks like all together with an electric waterpump and ATI dampner($$). Best of luck with which everone you decide to do.
so you're saying that out of a 350, I can get the displacement up to a 396?
Yes, in fact if you find a block that will take a overbore to 4.060, you'd have just over 401 cubic inches. The problem you run into though is that you'll get into the water jacket (NOT GOOD). .060 is at the very limits of most LT1 blocks. The big advantage comes with increasing the stroke. The stock 350 crank has a 3.500 stroke. If you were to just bore the block to 4.030 and use the stock crank, you'd have a 355. A 4.030 bore with a 3.75 inch stroke gives you the popular 383. The formula to figure out the displacement is (1/2 of the bore X 1/2 of the bore) X PI (3.1415) X stroke X # of cyclinders. The max stroke is limited by how much the block can be clearanced.