Hi Everyone,

When I push the brake pedal down, a whooooosh noise comes from it. It sounds like an air leak coming from somewhere near the left side of the clutch pedal. The air leak sound won't stop when the pedal is being pressed. The brakes aren't working very well either, it's parked til I fix it. It feels like the pedal is harder to push than normal and the brakes aren't working very well, then all of a sudden it feels like they grab. Anybody ever had this happen?

 

Your booster went south. They run around $200 for a new one. Remans are cheaper and the metal one is also cheaper. Go with the metal one.

Good luck.

 

Thanks! I should have done a search first, I've found tons of others in my boat now.

 

This seems to be the year of the bad brake booster. I just replaced mine and the only things that I can add to the excellent instructions posted by other forum members is use a 1/4 drive extensions and swivels for removing and re-installing the bolt on the passengers' side of the steering column, and if you have an LT1/4, completely remove the master cylinder, otherwise removing the old booster is almost impossible (I ended up taking a hammer to mine).

 

I'm in the middle of my 92. Yours may be different.Take the seat out. It makes it way easier. I had to pry the rod off the brake pedal. Should have been a clue. Then had to take it all apart again when the new rod would not fit on the pedal peg. Took it all apart AGAIN and ran a drill through the hole to make it a tad larger. Really just cleaned it out. The fit is very snug so don't go overboard if you do this. Fits like a glove. I also had a time with the new booster bolts going through the holes in the firewall. I stuck the bolt in the outside hole and crawled under the dash (now you know why the seat is out) and hooked the rod to the pedal. I pushed up on the steel plate and pulled on the pedal and the bolt pulled right through. The clip for the cruise cable is a cute device too. There is a small hole near the bottom the has a piece of spring steel in it. Just pry it out of the hole and the cable pulls out of the slot. Tomorrow I bleed new fluid to all the brakes. I used a 3/8 swivel and a 13mm short socket on two 6 in. extensions with some clay to hold the nuts and it was no problem. Don't forget the flare wrenches on the master cylinder. Cheap and worth the effort to get them. Lastly, this forum was the real tech support and I have both red books for this car. I'm pretty a pretty good mechanic and could have worked through it but the tips saved me a lot of time.

 

Yea, I forgot about putting plumbers putty in the 13mm socket.

 

Thanks a lot guys. Sounds like I'll have a fun w/e if the new booster shows up. After reading the manual last night, I got a little worried. These tips worry me even more, but at least I know what to expect now.

 

Do a search on brake booster - I posted proceedure when I did mine

 

After I had the car in the dealershop for other problems he said my brake booster was bad and was doing the same thing as you described in the 1st post. I had no idea as to how much break boosters cost. Got the bill in yesterday for $427.

 

I saw where new units are around $300, the metal unit referenced earlier was around $120 I think.

I just got a cheap reman unit from Advance for $150, hope to install it myself tonight or sometime soon. I just want the car back on the road asap and this was the quickest route.