Follow-Up Trany Problem..
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Race Director
Joined: Sep 2005
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St. Jude Donor '07
Follow-Up Trany Problem..
'85 4+3 65k
OK, so it was the master that was leaking and replaced. (I kept it to rebuild & give away to any CFer that wants it.)
There's a 'new' problem.
It has always had a trick going into first gear. I would have to let the clutch out slightly for it to slide into gear. I hoped this would fix the issue. It did not.
Now there's an additional issue! It grinds going into reverse! It didn't do that before.
And the pedal still feels soft and engages close to the floor.
What am I looking at? What tricks can I perform to fix or more closely diagnose this?
OK, so it was the master that was leaking and replaced. (I kept it to rebuild & give away to any CFer that wants it.)
There's a 'new' problem.
It has always had a trick going into first gear. I would have to let the clutch out slightly for it to slide into gear. I hoped this would fix the issue. It did not.
Now there's an additional issue! It grinds going into reverse! It didn't do that before.
And the pedal still feels soft and engages close to the floor.
What am I looking at? What tricks can I perform to fix or more closely diagnose this?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 10,878
Likes: 1
St. Jude Donor '07
OK. After reading every trany thread on the Forum that I could find, it would appear that there may still be air in the system. Chances are that the tech did not properly bleed the system.
I read that it might be best to manually push the slave rod into the cylinder body. This will require removing the slave cylinder, correct?
Is there any fluid that may pour out of the trany when I do this? I have no experience pulling tranys apart. And if there isn't fluid where there should be, or is where there shouldn't be... That would be bad.
Now, is there a tool that I can use to 'force' the air out? I'd rather not remove a part if I don't have to.
Or is my problem likely a major issue requiring a new clutch?
I read that it might be best to manually push the slave rod into the cylinder body. This will require removing the slave cylinder, correct?
Is there any fluid that may pour out of the trany when I do this? I have no experience pulling tranys apart. And if there isn't fluid where there should be, or is where there shouldn't be... That would be bad.
Now, is there a tool that I can use to 'force' the air out? I'd rather not remove a part if I don't have to.
Or is my problem likely a major issue requiring a new clutch?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Langley B.C.
There is a lot of threads on this...if you look at the slave you will see the bleader is not at the top,so you need to hold it on an angle while bleading to get the air out,a vacume pump works but I remember one of the threads suggested parking on an incline or jacking the car to get the bleader at the top and let gravity do it.Never tried it but it makes some sense. Good Luck!!!
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Joined: Sep 2005
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St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by Great White North
a vacume pump works but I remember one of the threads suggested parking on an incline or jacking the car to get the bleader at the top and let gravity do it.Never tried it but it makes some sense. Good Luck!!!
. It was parked on my inclined driveway (nose up) for a couple hours yesterday. I thought I'd rip around the neighborhood for a few minutes.No clutch problems at all. Into first smooth as silk. Into reverse with no grinding. All I did was pump the clutch a few times. No bleeder was open, engine off, nothing. Now I'm confused.
Might it have self bubbled?
