Well the engine is back in and slowly but surely everything is getting bolted back up. As I stated in an earlier reply to another post I should have some dyno numbers soon.

Waiting for the intake from the painter

Back in



Front brakes

Rear brakes





[Modified by Jeff M, 1:07 PM 8/19/2001]

 

I am planning a very simular setup in my car. When you find out post your dyno results.

The pics look great, but what have you done inside the motor. Cam, Cr, Heads, etc. I see you have TPIS heads, are LT1 or LT4 heads? What do the flow?

I can't much detail, but i can that aftermarket oil pickup, is it a Miloden? Nice choice of equipment regardless or make.

thanks,

89'

 

that looks hot!!! the engine is well done :cheers:

 

I've thought about pulling my motor for cleaning and repair of a couple of small leaks. How long does it take to get it out?
:confused:

 

WOW, looks great

 

outstanding! congrats!
i know what you're going thru, every damn step of the way.. just put my 383 in my '94 this weekend, and man is it slow going hooking everything back up.. long tube header bolts were, well, an experience (sure, that's the word i'm looking for *LOL*). which reminds me, tip for all, tighten your engine mount thru bolts before you put long tubes on! it can be done after, but it'll take some creative thinking..
p/s pump lines are great fun as always too.. i bought a new high pressure line as my idler pulley had previously chewed into my original one.. altho it wasn't leaking, figured now would be a good time to change it.. figured out why the old one had an interference problem.. apparently i'm not the first one to change that line, and the last person who did it didn't position it right on the rack.. mucho clearance now!
i have two plug wire boots that are, for all intensive purposes, actually touching the header wrap.. wondering if they'll melt? headers are coated, then wrapped and the wrap is coated with protective silicone based paint.. (hey i REALLY wanted to minimize underhood temps..)
the lt1 has two accessory brackets on the driver side which attach to studded manifold bolts.. my new header bolts didn't provide these provisions, wondering if i should fabricate new brackets or just leave 'em off.. i know other guys with long tubes have left 'em off.. (these are the bar type braces going to the back of the a/c compressor and the alternator, which are already attached to the giant accessory bracket which is bolted to the block and heads.. can't figure out how those accessories would move anyhow!) opinions?
intake is not yet bolted on, i want to prime the oil system and then bolt the intake on.. want to let the intake sit 24 hours before starting it up.. is this too much time after i prime the oil system (manually spinning oil pump w/drill) ? last time i didn't wait as long and ended up having to redo the rtv seal on the back of the intake manifold.
for the record, it was real easy fit putting the engine back in with the big canton oil pan on it.. i left the flywheel and front balancer off, but the big accessory bracket was already installed.. also installed the starter before putting it in as well..
i think that's all for now, i'll have pictures to add after it's all done, i've taken a couple along the way..

 

Ah yes, LT headers! Wrap and insulate away buddy, it's STILL gonna get *real* hot under the hood. You may want to get the high temp plug wire insulator boots. Real expensive for what you get. (but so what else is new?)

 

Looks great! :yesnod:

 

thanks for the tip hrocks.. would rather just spend the $50 now to protect my $58 (now $108!) custom taylor wires..
again, as i mentioned in another thread.. relative to what's been spent in past few months, another $50 is like finding a dime on the floor these days.. :smash:

 

Sorry for taking so long to get back to your questions:

I didn't pull the motor. The work was done by Jeal and Sons here in the UK. Geoff Jeal is the Corvette guru in the UK. He at one time worked at Lotus and was part of the design team responsible for the ZR1 LT5 motor. In fact his current LT5 offering is a 415 CID putting out over 600 streetable horsepower.

The internals for my engine:

383 with forged Eagle crank
aluminum single mass flywheel with mcleod clutch
ARP main stud kit
Eagle H beam rods w/ARP rod bolts
SRP/JE forged pistons
Canton 8 qt pan w/melling pump(GP from this forum :D )
AFR/TPIS heads
ARP head stud kit
SLP SS headers
Flowmaster Cat-back exhaust
LT4 Hot Cam
Competiton Cams hydraulic roller lifters
Hot Cam kit roller rockers(necessitated the later composite valve covers)
52mm throttle body
ported intake(original painted red)
95/96 design vented optispark
Taylor 8mm wires
DRM aluminum radiator w/internal engine oil cooler
Geoff Jeal ECM tuning

still waiting on dyno numbers :D more to come......