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I hope someone can help me with this problem. I own a 88 convertible with 26000 miles on the odo.since new if the car is cold it will start right up no problem at all. But if I take a twenty minute ride and shut it off for a while about a half hour or longer it will crank and crank for a while before it starts and stumbles unless I give it some throttle right away. Also when this long crank is happening If I feather the throttle a little it seems to help a little. I have read in corvette fever other people with same problem with the 88,and they advised upgrade of relays to 89 which are located behind battery on firewall, which I did and no noticable improvement.Can someone help this is getting embrassing? :confused:
Not quite sure how to help you solve your problem, but I know my 88 was the same way. When cold it would fire immediatly, but once it got warm and sat for a while it had to crank longer than it should. I think it had something to do with heat soak...temps got high under the hood after sitting. I solved the problem with mine by getting a divorce...when she left she took the car with her! :mad :D
Might also be a leaky cold start injector. I had the same issue that you described on my 88 Irocz. The cold start injector was basically flooding the engine when hot, took alot of cranking to get it started.
If the cold start injector is leaking when hot, then you should be able to smell raw fuel in the exhaust when cranking. But, raw fuel could also be all or some of the injectors leaking. This was a common problem in early C4's and the factory replaced the injectors free. If you have the replacements, they have a green band around them.
mine (88)does the same , problem seems to be leaky inject.(s), lots of guys here had same problem, im finishing puttin on accel. base, #24svo inj.&slp runners, will see if problem goes away, will post when done, tryin to finish so I can drive to carlsle show .. :crazy:
It might be leaking injectors, check the spark plugs about an hour after engine shut down. Any of the plug is wet, that's the leaking injector. If it is, replace all of them. While you're at it, you can replace the intake mainfold gasket too There are other way to test the performance/operation of the injectors, which involved measuring the resistance, and gas line pressure...I don't know how to do it and don't have the tools either Vettenuts might be able to tell you what to do.
Did mine last year with my brother help. The car start right up when hot, but then when cold it took longer to start. Maybe because I didn't change the cold start valve (could find one at the time). The intake has been leaking since I bought the car. I should of replace it at the same time last year, now I have to take the car apart again to change the intake gasket.
thanks for the advice. the injectors were checked for leak down and system pressure, I was talking to my buddy mechanic today and I will move on to the cold start injector and valve :yesnod:
Had the same problem with my 88, and also intermittent stalling. I cleaned the throttle body and the IAC motor. Stalling problem is gone and it starts up a lot better when warm. Hope this helps.
Turns out my cold start injector wasn't plugged in. Plugged it in and now sometimes it starts hard hot, sometimes cold. I always smell fuel when it finally fires. Where can I get a cold start injector?
Turns out my cold start injector wasn't plugged in. Plugged it in and now sometimes it starts hard hot, sometimes cold. I always smell fuel when it finally fires. Where can I get a cold start injector?
I am looking for the cold start valve too. Try http://www.carparts.com maybe you have better luck than I am. Last year when I bought the Lucas injector from them they didn't have the cold start valve. Latter on their online catalog shows that they have it, I ordered but always got the tube section and never got full refund for it.
"I always smell fuel when it finally fires" Mine maybe the same as your, I already have a set of new O rings. Will replace when I do the mainfold gasket if I can't find the cold start valve yet.
Lucas injector is disc type instead of Borsch(sp) pintle type, some forum member recommended to use the disc rather than the older pintle type. Lucas is a little shorter in length, but the portion that fit in the mainfold is the same length.... I don't know Ford injector 24# is disc or pintle but for $200 a set sound a lot better than GM injector.
From: Sacramento, CA Money can't buy happiness - but it's more comfortable to cry in a Corvette than a Yugo.
Re: long cranking to start (VQT88Vette)
This is an issue near and dear to my heart. I had the same problem for a couple of years. At cold startup the car fired up perfecctly and immediatly. When warm, it cranked until I used the accelerator pedal. It slowly got worse over time. Since my 88 coupe was aproaching 75k miles I decided that I would replace all of the injectors, including the cold start injector.
As has already ben stated, finding the cold start injector (CSV or cold start valve acccording to GM) is practically impossible. I tried wrenchead.com, carparts.com, and carparts-online.com. All promised a CSV, but no one ever shipped me one. Each came back saying it was on back order, and then days or weeks later emailed me the fact that they were not going to be able to get the part. I emailed Rich at cruizinperformance.com who rebuilds injectors and he had one in the mail that week. Excellent fellow.
I pulled the plenum, runners, and fuel rails off myself and replaced the stock 22lb injectors with Accel 24lb units. I installed the rebuilt CSV and replaced the EGR while I was at it. The car runs so much smoother it is amazing. Fires up immediatly hot or cold.
If you don't have a fuel pressure regulator, I recommend buying the Accel 22lb units from Rich, Summit, or JEGS for about $500. They are an exact match for your car and will require no tuning. Accel also offers a 23lb injector as well as the 24 lb injectors for about $229. ( Again available from Rich and others.) I already had an adjustable fuel pressure regulator so I got the cheaper 24lb units which were readily available.
If you do the work yourself, I recommend that you buy 2 new fuel line o-rings for the connections from the fuel lines to the fuel rails. Also get a new EGR valve from GM. The aftermarket EGR valves are not an exact match and you will find yourself having to jury-rig the connection to the EGR valve. I checked everywhere and finally ponied up the money for a stock EGR. (Use 18carfan from the forum for the best prices on GM dealer parts.) Also, buy a 6" T-40 Torx extension and 6" 6mm hex extensionl from Snap-On or Mac tools for getting to the plenum bolts and screws. Major time savers.
just finished puttin on #24 svo inj. &accel base, had fpr on already, had problem with hot start, now it starts right up cold or hot&runs much better. :D :D :D rich is a good guy with loads of info also.