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Ive been running a 160 in mine for about 4 years now, never had any issues. I also live in FL where its burning hot all the time though, so any help with cooling down here is needed
Just make sure you get a chip/tune/program that supports 160* thermo's.
other than that (not sure about your engine) but on my L98 its a simple 30 min replacement.. move the TB out of the way, pop the elbow pipe off, clean off old gasket, replace thermo, add some sealant and a new gasket and put it all back together.
Unless its sticking, it will get up to 180 degrees and drop down a little lower than that once it opens to let coolant through and/or when the fan comes on. My fans were programmed to turn on at 190, and off at 175. Maybe that is the problem.
At least I have the peace of mind that in the event my t-stat fails, it will fail in the open position. Last t-stat I had failed that way and pretty much saved my motor from overheating, despite the 130-140 degree coolant temps on the highway. Normal coolant temps were attained around town with the fans coming on as usual. Oil temp was normal at 180-190 degrees though...
Usually the thermostat rating, such as 180, is the minimum temperature the motor will operate at.......my comment regarding a problem was related to your 175 operating temp with a 180 stat......I think having your fan not turn off until you are below the thermostat rating is incorrect.....you should have your fan programmed to turn off somewhere above the 180 rating of your thermostat????
Well, my temp gets up to about 180 degrees in about 5-10 minutes of driving. Then I see the digital gauge temp dropping, counting back down from there to about 177 degrees. It will then rise back up to about 180-190 degrees driving around town. If I'm idling for a long time, it will get up to 190ish degrees and the fan will turn on and bring the coolant temp back down to about 180 degrees. On the highway, I'm always seeing 175 degree coolant temps, while oil is consistantly at 190 degrees.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Andy, what are you trying to say about maximizing/minimizing expansion rates? Are you trying to say GM makes the aluminum heads or pistons slightly smaller so that they'll be perfectly aligned with a steel block when they warm up to 220 degrees? Yet they won't be at 180? Aluminum pistons have been in use since the 20's.
If the extra heat is good for the motor, I sure don't think it's good for all the plastic under the hood. Most of the plastic parts are brittle and snap easily.
I'm not trying to say you're wrong, but that bit on metallurgy, at least as you described it, is off base.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Next time I go to the track, I'll run alternating runs with the car at 185, and heat soaked to 225. I can control this easily with my fan switch. If I get at least 4 runs of each, that should be telling. I'll even hook up the gtech to measure hp.
Did two dyno runs awhile back, first one started at 185, 190 when it was over. Second run I cooled it off so temps were 165, 170 ish when over.
+10hp and +8tq due to cooler temps.
Track runs-
Best run ever at 155/160
Next was 190/195 .2 slower
Third run at 215 a a hair under .4 slower
Dont know how those figures fit in a "rule of thumb" chart (they shouldnt), but this is what I found from running it and finding out.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
That's nice and all, but did you account for the change in density of the compound air mixture due to gravitational variances caused by the seasonal transgression of the sun?
That's nice and all, but did you account for the change in density of the compound air mixture due to gravitational variances caused by the seasonal transgression of the sun?