C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Rear Suspension Question

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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 10:26 PM
  #1  
ceberus's Avatar
ceberus
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Default Rear Suspension Question

I heard a metal on metal sound when I drove over bumps, and I pulled a back tire and noticed something. The bushings that connect the rear suspension knucle to the rear spring are totally shreaded. The result is that the spring bolts are grinding on the leaf spring. Everything else in the suspension looks okay.

Is this a common problem? I am not a suspenion wiz, but if anyone has done this job before I could use some pointers. Also, could this problem have an impact on ride quality or will it only affect handling? The reason I ask is because I have a slight vibration that I can't get rid of even after replacing tires and shocks.

Thanks.

greg
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 11:52 PM
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Default

You need to fill out your profile with a few details or include more
information in your posts for best results. (For instance, the answer
to your question: 'Is this common' could vary depending on whether
you post or profile mentioned you have a '96 w/ 18K mi or an '84
w/ 246K mi.)

The bushings on my '89 were tired but intact. I replaced them with
four #10262518 Insulators from GM. I am not certain whether this
p/n is suitable for all years &/or suspension pkgs.

If the shoulder of the bolt is contacting, this is undesirable but less
than super-critical. If the threaded portion is contacting, well that
would be like sliding a file or rasp up and down in the hole.

Edited to correct a typo for the p/n: changed to 10262518 from 10263518 (wrong p/n)
My apologies to Cerebus who discovered and reported this problem
to me.

.

Last edited by Slalom4me; Apr 21, 2006 at 08:47 PM.
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 12:11 AM
  #3  
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ceberus
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Default

Thanks. I got my profile updated. Where there any special tools required to detach the spring from the knuckle?
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 12:24 AM
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Default its super easy!

Just place a floor jack under the spring just inboard of the long bolt. Put a piece of wood in there so you don't scratch the spring. Jack up the spring enough to take the tension off the bolt, you won't be lifting the car. Then you can remove the bolt and put the new bushings in.
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 12:33 AM
  #5  
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Slalom4me
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These two threads should cover much of what you need to know.
As mentioned, you don't want to mark the spring. It is also sensitive
to certain substances. You might want to soak the threads for a
while before starting. Counting the threads before loosening the
nuts, maybe take photos, would be a good idea. Measuring the
ride height before you start.

Stuff like that...
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 01:00 PM
  #6  
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ceberus
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Thanks!!
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Old Apr 21, 2006 | 06:22 PM
  #7  
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ceberus
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The bushings I have look a lot different than what is on there. Can anyone verify if 10262518 is the correct part number? Thanks
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Old Apr 21, 2006 | 08:15 PM
  #8  
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ceberus
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The bushings were correct and they are on, and man what a difference!
It took less than an hour for both sides. I am so impressed, I think I am going to do the front suspension next.
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Old Apr 21, 2006 | 08:43 PM
  #9  
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Oops, the '10263518' number I posted above IS INCORRECT.

Not that this excuses my error but I see that the bad number draws
a blank at WWW.GMPARTSDIRECT.COM.

The number you are asking about - '10262518' is CORRECT. Rather than
take my word on anything at this point, I offer you the following, along
with my abject apologies:







.
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Old Apr 22, 2006 | 01:09 PM
  #10  
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Default

Originally Posted by ceberus
The bushings were correct and they are on, and man what a difference!
It took less than an hour for both sides. I am so impressed, I think I am going to do the front suspension next.
You'll find the front is much more involved and time consuming! Good luck, it's worth it.
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