SeaFoam is amazing stuff....
The can said to warm the car, pour it in, then shut it off... After 5 minutes restart the car.
Any thoughts?
I shut the engine off, then restarted it 5 minutes latter, some smoke came out, but nothing like before.....

i'm gona do the same down the road, and was thinking of using some motor flush at the same time, or the old quart of tranny fluid gig. but afterwards, i'm gonna run two quarts of the high mileage oil with rubber conditioners in it to stop the shock. if i use tranny fluid, this probably won't be necessary, since i believe it has rubber conditioners already in it.
i've been running one quart of the high mileage stuff for the past two oil changes, and it has loosened up the old, hard hoses running from the valve covers to the intake. i didn't run the stuff exclusively, because at full strength i've seen it rapidly tenderize old brittle rubber and cause it to split. the seals and such need to be coaxed back to life--not shocked.
also, lucas power steering treatment must have the same stuff in it, cause' it has started to tenderize the old stiff hoses running from my reservoir--while re-conditioning and swelling the leaking seals.
Last edited by parafrog; Apr 16, 2006 at 03:10 AM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
vac. line, none in the oil-which was ok with me. Anyhow, the only thing C4 folks should know is it can TEMPORARILY mist the 02 sensors, setting an 02 code-not to worry, it burns off, disconnect battery-code gone. Also, I hold my RPMs between 1500-1800 while putting it through the vac. line, I use the brake booster line because it's easier (at least for me) than using the PVC line.
so what is it supposed to do?
The smoke goes away in about 5 minute. My neighboor said he was about to call the fire department. I'm going to do it again in a week.
Check this thread http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...hlight=seafoam for the smokey pictures....
100%Hold the can of seafoam up at a slight angle, and the runbber brake booster line next to it (facing vertically). Slowly tilt the seafoam, and the vacuum from the line will suck it out of the can without putting it in, get a slight stream going. and youll be fine. Nothing to it, really.





100%Hold the can of seafoam up at a slight angle, and the runbber brake booster line next to it (facing vertically). Slowly tilt the seafoam, and the vacuum from the line will suck it out of the can without putting it in, get a slight stream going. and youll be fine. Nothing to it, really.
Quite the pro I see
Im about to run some through my car this week

this is just about the proceedure listed on a can of gm, top end cleaner. i'm surprised the sea foam doesn't list the same.
here's the basics on the gm can:
warm engine
disconnect air system solenoid to divert air from converter
idle 800-1000
pour 2/3 without stalling
pour in balance fast-stalling, stopping once stalled
kill engine, let sit for 15 minutes
start engine, pour in remainder without stalling
run engine at high idle to blow out deposits
restore air system
someone on the forum recommended running two bottles. but as someone said here, it's probably best to wait a while to put in the second. if you did it the next day, the deposits might be still soft and easily be dissolved. if you did it the next week, deposits that were only loosened in the first application may have broken off--giving you a better shot at total success in the second application. it's a tough call on the time frame.
but it is most likely true, that if you got a ton of smoke on the first app., then a second is probably recommended.
you can raise your idle by wedging something like some folded paper between the throttle body lever and the stop to achieve the appropriate rpm.
before anyone asks, the air disconnect is probably to stop the cat from overheating--the stuff is full of naptha.
now i'm talking about the gm stuff, but the seafoam is probably built the same.
Last edited by parafrog; Apr 17, 2006 at 04:43 AM.















