C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Power Coupler MAT Sensor Location

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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 01:27 PM
  #1  
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Default Power Coupler MAT Sensor Location

I just received new smooth air intake ducts from MidAmerica http://www.madvet.com/shop?frame=3.135.689. They call them Power Couplers. It looks like the hole for the sensor has already been cut. Does anyone think there is a benifit from relocating the MAT sensor to the air box with the relocation kit http://www.madvet.com/shop?frame=3.135.861. I am about to install nitrous and the nozzle will probably be located in this area by the throttle body. Should I keep the MAT where it is or relocate it closer to the filter?

Thanks
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 01:48 PM
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IMO leave the MAT where it is. Not any gain from relocator wires.
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 04:12 PM
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There were several write ups concerning this, and the final overall determinations was that (1) didn't make any difference (2) could possibly not be good for overall operations of the engine. Had one and still have it in the "oh my god" parts box
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 04:18 PM
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The most effective thing about the "Power Coupler" is the power to remove about $100 from your wallet for both pieces
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 04:54 PM
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Default power coupler

Originally Posted by DougSilver
The most effective thing about the "Power Coupler" is the power to remove about $100 from your wallet for both pieces
Ok, so maybe it was stupid buy. Actually it was closer to $120. Although I do like the power of not having to clean between the folds of the old one. Plus it has a cool name. Maybe I can through some stickers on it and make it flow faster.

Last edited by rickneworleansla; Apr 20, 2006 at 06:25 PM.
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 04:56 PM
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It will start cracking soon.
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 04:58 PM
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Hey Rick--I shouldn't talk. The first thing I did after getting my Vette was to install a throttle body air foil since this was supposedly good for 15 or more horsepower
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 05:00 PM
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Had mine on for over a year. No cracks yet.

I definitely think it helps the air flow.

I also moved my IAT sensor. Was my last mod. I should have done it first. A buddy of mine with two ZR-1s told me to do it years ago. I should have listened to him!

Just my .02!
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 05:13 PM
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Mine are cracking where they slide over the tb and also where they slide over the filter box. They are also cracking where I plugged the aftermarket vented opti into. All the stress points are where the problem is. I guess I've had mine for over a yr now. I've removed them a few times to play with maf, maybe that didn't help. They are always a pia to get back on. I was trying to buy them years ago and they stopped production. They finally started up again and I bought right then.
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 05:35 PM
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Default power coupling

I thought about making my own out of some material other than rubber, maybe fiberglass. Something that would paint easy and look good. I just couldnt figure out how the fit would work to the other parts. Thanks for the warnings I'll be carefull not to tear it. You think there would be any added benifit to having the inside smooth with the N2O spray? I should probably leave the temp sensor where it is since the spray will probably reduce the temp anyway. Hey, I have one of those airfoils too. I thought after the install I'd be in the 7's easy and lifting the front wheels off the ground. At least I only paid just a little for that on ebay.

Last edited by rickneworleansla; Apr 20, 2006 at 05:42 PM.
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 05:40 PM
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lol. Yeah I think the smoothness might be better for using spray. There is someone around here thay made the hose from a pylon. I'm not sure a stiff fiberglass one would slip on that easily. You may could get it to work with the right hoses and clamps.
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 08:55 PM
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You need material thats flexible to move with the motor as it torques in its mounts, thats why they crack. I have one also. Has some fine cracks in it, but doesnt leak-Its pretty thick. Make sure and grease the ends so it doesnt "grab" on to the MAF as the motor tries to twist. Probably not 100% necessary, but what the heck.
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Old Apr 22, 2006 | 10:57 AM
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Default power coupler

Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
You need material thats flexible to move with the motor as it torques in its mounts, thats why they crack. I have one also. Has some fine cracks in it, but doesnt leak-Its pretty thick. Make sure and grease the ends so it doesnt "grab" on to the MAF as the motor tries to twist. Probably not 100% necessary, but what the heck.
Never thought about the twisting with the engine. I'll try the grease with the install. Thanks
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