94 LT1 Knock Sensor Removal: Need Help
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Milford CT
94 LT1 Knock Sensor Removal: Need Help
I just got started on my opti spark and water pump (radiator removal and cleaning, wire replacement and intake manifold sealing) replacement. I drained the radiator. Next was to remove knock sensors to drain the rest of the coolant. Here's my problem. I put a 7/8 deep socket on the sensor and it looks like the inner part is moving but the outer part isn't. What's up with this? Is the sensor a two piece part? How are you supposed to get it out. All help is greatly appreciated
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
I had the same problem with one of mine the first time I removed it. No, it is not supposed to do that. It's because the bottom section is stuck in the block due to age. The good news is, it's easy to get out (or should be), just put a pipe wrench on the outer diameter to get it broken loose. The bad news is, the sensor should probably be replaced, now that it's turned within itself. They're not that expensive though and if you've got some mileage on your car, it might be a good time to just replace both. When reinstalling, these needn't be real tight. I can't remember the torque spec but it ain't much.
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by Thomastp
Thanks Chris. I'll give it a try. I guess GM is the only place to get the knock sensors though.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 799
Likes: 5
From: Northeast OH
Good luck with your undertaking.
I just finished a water pump on my '96 today. It is worth it to get as much coolant out as possible. The worst part for me was the middle water pump bolt on the driver side as it is directly behind the power steering pump pulley. I think it is well worth the time to get a puller and get that pulley off, although the manuals say it is not necessary it sure made the re-install much much easier.
Second worst problem was getting the old water pump gaskets off. spray with gasket solvent, scrape with razor blade, and repeat and repeat and repeat...drivers side is very hard to see. Take your time and get the surfaces clean.
Finally fired her up this afternoon and so far so good. We'll see.
Again, best of luck to you.
I just finished a water pump on my '96 today. It is worth it to get as much coolant out as possible. The worst part for me was the middle water pump bolt on the driver side as it is directly behind the power steering pump pulley. I think it is well worth the time to get a puller and get that pulley off, although the manuals say it is not necessary it sure made the re-install much much easier.
Second worst problem was getting the old water pump gaskets off. spray with gasket solvent, scrape with razor blade, and repeat and repeat and repeat...drivers side is very hard to see. Take your time and get the surfaces clean.
Finally fired her up this afternoon and so far so good. We'll see.
Again, best of luck to you.
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Don't add any thread compound to the new sensors. The orange coating that comes on there is all you need.
Stay with the AC/Delco-Delphi sensors. DO NOT go with Wells (AutoZone) Smith, or other cheap imitatators.
You are flirting with a trouble code on your DIC if you do. Trust me on this one. They run about $30 each. The torque spec is 13 lbs.
Stay with the AC/Delco-Delphi sensors. DO NOT go with Wells (AutoZone) Smith, or other cheap imitatators.
You are flirting with a trouble code on your DIC if you do. Trust me on this one. They run about $30 each. The torque spec is 13 lbs.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 848
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From: 1992 LT1 6 speed Cayman Islands
Originally Posted by onedef92
Don't add any thread compound to the new sensors. The orange coating that comes on there is all you need.
Stay with the AC/Delco-Delphi sensors. DO NOT go with Wells (AutoZone) Smith, or other cheap imitatators.
You are flirting with a trouble code on your DIC if you do. Trust me on this one. They run about $30 each. The torque spec is 13 lbs.
Stay with the AC/Delco-Delphi sensors. DO NOT go with Wells (AutoZone) Smith, or other cheap imitatators.
You are flirting with a trouble code on your DIC if you do. Trust me on this one. They run about $30 each. The torque spec is 13 lbs.
Do not use teflon tape either.
