C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Ball joint castle nuts

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Old May 1, 2006 | 01:41 PM
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Default Ball joint castle nuts

Im putting back together my front end after installing the lowering kit and my castle nuts wont turn when putting them back on. The bolt that it screws onto it is spinning. I don't see anything to prevent these bolts to stop spinning so I can put the castle nuts on both the tie rod ends and lower ball joints. Any tips ?
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Old May 1, 2006 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 87vette
Im putting back together my front end after installing the lowering kit and my castle nuts wont turn when putting them back on. The bolt that it screws onto it is spinning. I don't see anything to prevent these bolts to stop spinning so I can put the castle nuts on both the tie rod ends and lower ball joints. Any tips ?
If the thread on the stud is damaged, either clean up the thread with a die, or toss the joint in favor of one that has clean thread. If the thread on the nut is damaged, clean it up with a tap, or toss it in favor of a fresh one that has clean thread.

If the threads are fine:

1. Clean the tapered bore in the knuckle to remove any oil/grease.

2. Clean the tapered stud to remove any oil/grease.

3. Apply some pressure to the joint to seat its tapered stud against the tapered seat in the knuckle. Simple hand pressure may be sufficient -- if not, try a bit of gentle pressure with a C-Clamp, large Channel-Locks, etc. The goal is to develop more friction between the tapered stud and the tapered bore in the knuckle than exists between the threads of the nut and stud. Once the nut starts to pull the stud into the bore, you'll have no further problem with the stud spinning.

Be well,

SJW
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Old May 1, 2006 | 04:25 PM
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What he said
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Old May 1, 2006 | 04:47 PM
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Are the ball joints and tie rod ends the same parts that
were in place before dissassembly?

.
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Old May 1, 2006 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Slalom4me
Are the ball joints and tie rod ends the same parts that
were in place before dissassembly?

.
Yes. The threads are fine. I just don't understand why the studs are spinning thats preventing me from tightening the castle nuts. I got the drivers side tie rod castle nut on and in place and the passenger side ball joint nut on and in place. The other two just won't cooperate.
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Old May 1, 2006 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 87vette
Yes. The threads are fine. I just don't understand why the studs are spinning thats preventing me from tightening the castle nuts. I got the drivers side tie rod castle nut on and in place and the passenger side ball joint nut on and in place. The other two just won't cooperate.
Apply some squeeze to them to seat the studs in the bores of the knuckles, and you should be just fine. It's not at all uncommon.

Be well,

SJW
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Old May 1, 2006 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by SJW
Apply some squeeze to them to seat the studs in the bores of the knuckles, and you should be just fine. It's not at all uncommon.

Be well,

SJW
What do you mean by applying some squeeze? I'm not sure I follow. I'm going to go back out tmw and take a wirebrush to them and apply some brake cleaner in hopes it does the trick. I could've had the wheels back on today and took her for a spin around the block ahh well just my luck. Tmw is another day and I'll finally see if the vette is lowered!
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Old May 1, 2006 | 07:55 PM
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He means to push it againsts the knuckle while you turn the castle nut. That helps to keep it from spinning on you as the castle nut is being tightened, because the hole is tapered. I had to do that myself. I had the same problem with threading in the new grease fittings on the lower ball joints. It kept spinning on me before the fitting sat flush.

Last edited by 86PACER; May 1, 2006 at 07:59 PM.
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Old May 1, 2006 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 87vette
What do you mean by applying some squeeze? I'm not sure I follow.
As SJW said, the ball studs of the ball joints and the tie rod ends are tapered. The holes they install into, in the knuckle are tapered. A tapered fit is a VERY tight, secure, connection. By rapping on the opposite side of the ball joint or tie rod end, or by squeezing them to together with a "C" clamp, to drive the tapered stud into tight contact with the tapered hole, the stud will no longer spin, because of the taper fit.

RACE ON!!!
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Old May 1, 2006 | 09:11 PM
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hit the bottom with rubber mallet, or use a 2X4 and tap it in slightly.
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Old May 1, 2006 | 09:12 PM
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hit the bottom with rubber mallet, or use a 2X4 and tap it in slightly with a hammer.
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Old May 1, 2006 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 86PACER
He means to push it againsts the knuckle while you turn the castle nut. That helps to keep it from spinning on you as the castle nut is being tightened, because the hole is tapered. I had to do that myself. I had the same problem with threading in the new grease fittings on the lower ball joints. It kept spinning on me before the fitting sat flush.

I jacked it from underneath on one side which seemed to help but the other side is stubborn!
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Old May 1, 2006 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by parafrog
hit the bottom with rubber mallet, or use a 2X4 and tap it in slightly.
I did that as well and it doesn't seem to help. I will clean the threads tmw and give it another go.
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Old May 1, 2006 | 09:57 PM
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Try a C-clamp.
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Old May 1, 2006 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 86PACER
Try a C-clamp.
Will do
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Old May 1, 2006 | 10:03 PM
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If you're using quality ball joints, you'll notice that the top of the stud will accept an allen wrench. Insert the allen wrench into the stud while tightening the nut with an open end wrench. Torque to spec by using a "crow's foot" on your torque wrench.
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Old May 1, 2006 | 10:04 PM
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And if that still does not work, find a safe way to clap the pintle directly with the c-clamp and thread the bolt down to the bottom thread. The remove the clamp and the bolt should not go on easy from now on.
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