Hi, pulled distributor to replace ignition module and replace cap & rotor. Verified #1 is Tdc, rotor facing toward #1, and plug wires are in correct order. Cranked right up. Timing marks show 18-20 degrees advance with ESC wire disconnected. Tach/battery block on distributor is hitting the superram and I can't retard it any further. Need advice on how to fix. Prior to this, engine recently rebuilt (1300 miles on rebuild) and getting code 43 on hard acceleration. I believe mechanic who installed engine had it timed this way, too far advanced. Can the distributor be phased to allow room for more retard? If so, please explain procedure. 1988 coupe, auto trans, complete superram, LPE 219 cam, 383 C.I. TIA Tom

 

To get the tach/batt, block nearer the firewall, you can pull the distr. and move the gear 1 tooth c.clockwise. To insure you have moved it one tooth mark the original position with tape and marker on intake. Remember the type of teeth on the gear will require starting it more forward than the desired location. It may not seat all the way down to the intake. You will probably have to use a long screwdriver and turn the drive gear (c. clockwise)to line up with the distributer gear keyway.

 

Lift the distributor back out, slowly. You only have to lift it high enough for the gears to clear one another, about an inch, give or take a little. If I understand the problem correctly, rotate the rotor so that the distributor drops back in with the rotor one tooth counter clockwise from where it is. I bet you will have the correct range of timing adjustment, from there.

RACE ON!!!

 

There are two ways you can solve this issue:

1. Pull the distributor back out and turn the rotor a few degrees clockwise and re-install (keeping distributor housing in same position).

2. Remove the wires from the cap and re-install at the adjacent terminal going counter-clockwise.

Either way would likely over correct the problem, so additional adjustment will be needed.

I've had a few beers tonight, so someone please correct me if I got the clockwise, counter-clockwise suggestions reversed. :o

 

you may have to also bump the starter to get the distributor lined up with the oil pump rod

 

My advice is to NOT remove the distributor. You are too close, now, and risk getting "lost". Lift the distributor the 1" or so, I described above. When you feel the distributor gear disengage with the camshaft, turn the rotor the one tooth CCW and drop the distributor. The oil pump shaft will NOT engage at this point. It will after a couple of bumps on the starter.

RACE ON!!!

 

You can re-clock the distributor 1 tooth or more to give you some more adjustment room.

With #1 at tdc on the compression stroke:

Just pull the distributor and rotate both the rotor and distibutor base, counter clockwise so that when re-inserted you still point at #1.

The rotor will rotate clockwise as you drop the distributor in, therefore you need to compensate for this with rotor positioning before inserting.

Note: You will also need to rotate the oil pump drive the same amount with a long screwdriver, to get the distributor to drop in fully and engage the pump drive.

Based on my 88 with the superram installed, you should be able to set the distibutor in so it ends up sitting square, with the block pointing directly to the driver's side.

In this position you should be able set timing as low a 4 degrees without hitting the plenum. You can rotate back another tooth if you want for more room to retard further.

6 degrees base timing should leave about 1 little finger width between the connector block and the plenum. The number 2 plug wire will be close as well.

 

Thankx a million, guys. I will give it a try tonight when I get off work.