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You should PM (username) Lichen. He has the same year C4 w/ virtually the same mods. He initially (after the mods) didn't have the heated .02's but switched to them recently. I guess they made a big difference but we'll let him explain that to ya'.
From: I'm the walkin dude I can see all of the world...
St. Jude Donor '03
With the LT-1 I definitly had to switch to heated O2s. My suspision is pretty much everyone should switch to heated O2s after a header install. My car ran like crap w/o em.
I have the Hooker Super Comp's and I have the OEM Bosch O2 sensor, and it works just fine.
BTW: The hooker super comp's put the sensor in the #7 primary tube.
I think allot of it comes down to how modified it is. Some havent noticed any changes with them, but I know I did, and my motor has a big cam, relatively speaking, and 396 cu inches. It used to smell like gas, unburnt allot, as the car wasnt going into closed loop, which is essential for a good running motor and your health, especially behind me Now it runs better, as far as the richness smell is concerned, and it goes into cllosed loop after 2 minutes and stays there.
I'm curious, how do the heated O2's function? I'm also thinking of doing a header install and no cats. How does it effect open loop, closed loop etc.?
Thanks
Basically a 3rd wire is run to a 12V source, and heats up the element from that so that it comes into its optimum operating temp range faster.
That makes it go into closed loop sooner, and keeps it in closed loop at idle when its most likely to drop out.
There is no way to tell if you really must use a heated O2 without hooking up a scanner to see if its dropping into open loop, unless you notice a mpg decrease. You can assume that if the bung is further away from the engine than the stocker, t hen you might as well go ahead. Mine didnt need one.
well my car is kind of running like crap. My mechanic wasn't too familiar with heated O2 sensors and thats what I think I need. It almost feels like an engine skip between 1800-2100 rpms. I've tried just about everything..... Removed plugs and wires. Did an engine cylinder balance test to see if it was misfiring and the mechanic said everything looked good. I've just about given up on this and am about to call the dealer..aka..stealer. I would like to find someone who could help me out.
I just installed LT headers and heated sensors. Don't know what would have happened if I hadn't, but I can state that I'm very pleased with the overall results.
I have the Hooker Super Comp's and I have the OEM Bosch O2 sensor, and it works just fine.
BTW: The hooker super comp's put the sensor in the #7 primary tube.
Only on the 2149's. The 2151's have no O2 bung anywhere, so you need to drill a hole and weld one on yourself for the 2151's.
In moderate weather with an unheated O2 sensor mounted in SS
headers, my car would go into closed loop after a several minutes
idling. It would stay in closed loop at low speeds but at a
40 - 50 MPH cruise, the sensor cooled enough that it dropped back
out in to open loop.
With a heated sensor, the car promptly goes into closed loop and
stays there.
If you are running in open loop, the engine is operating with a very
constrained set of parameters.
Back int he day when i had bolt ons i never had heated o2s. funny though that i swear my car felt like it had 50 more hp when cold or when on the highway. can open loop possibly make this happen?
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Originally Posted by MTVette
I just installed LT headers and heated sensors. Don't know what would have happened if I hadn't, but I can state that I'm very pleased with the overall results.