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I've had my '94 for two years now and have been fighting oil leaks since day 1. I had the intake manifold gaskets replaced and the front crank and waterpump seals replaced. Now, it appears that 1 lower bolt on the timing chain cover is leaking and I think the rear main seal is leaking as well. I spoke with a mechanic last night at my Covette club's cruise night and he told me that a quick fix for the leaking bolt was to remove it and apply some Permatex and put it back in tight. Have any of you heard of some tricks for stopping these leaks? What's involved with replacing the main rear? I understand it's a big job!
Are there oil drops on the ground when you park the car? Or is there "just" some oil on the engine?
If car is not really leaving oil spots on the floor, I'd stop fighting those leaks. There are not many engines around which are really "dry"...
I think I've got a leak from the oil filter adapter, or possibly the rear main seal. It leaves a few drops a night. Nothing big to me, because I change the oil ever 2500 miles or so and with a few drops every night it won't get low enough to cause a problem. Obviously I check the oil level more often than I would have my other cars.
The permatex on the bolt should work. The rear main seal might actually be that oil filter adapter. The original gaskets on it suck. GM has a new design for it. The oil filter may not be on tight enough. Its small and hard to tighten so it may not be on all the way. I had this problem until I made sure it was at least 3/4 to 1 full turn after the gasket contacts the adapter.
The bolts holding stuff to the engine get loose over time because of the thermal cycling the engine. This eventually promotes oil leaks. Its a good idea to tighten the bolts on those areas once ever 12 to 18 months. The key items are intake, throttle body, waterpump, timing cover and probably the oil filter adapter. Anything aluminum that is bolted on (besides the heads) is a possible source since Aluminum expands more than the cast iron block when it heats up.
Frankly, I wish the EPA would set some guidelines for oil leaks. They are a really big source of oil going into the ground. The side benefit for us is that the engine would leak a lot less oil and stay cleaner.
I'm pretty sure the oil filter adapter is the cause for my leaks. I know the oil filter is on plenty tight and oil still drips right off the filter (even after 3 changes), so I figure it has to be that adapater.
That part number, does it include both the adapter and the o-ring? There are several pieces listed in the service manual that compose the oil/adapter setup (about 5 of them it looks like).
Curtis... Jeff Kopp stated that the kit includes the gasket and the o-ring. I assume that's all you need. Let me know if you find out some other information.
Alright, I'm starting to get really mad now!!! :mad I got home from Carlise and checked under the car and there was more oil on the front bottom of the engine and spraying back on everything. I've already had the intake manifold gasket changed and just last week had the crank seals replaced when I had my opti and waterpump replaced. My mechanic checked it today before work and cannot really seem to diagnose where the heck it's coming from. He resealed a few timing chain cover bolts with RTV, but we doubt that's the problem. The oil filter is completely dry. Actually, the oil level was fine, so whatever is leaking, is being blown all over the place.
He want's to take the crank pulley off and thoroughly recheck the crank seal and the oil pan seal. Does anyone have any other ideas? What's involved with changing the oil pan seal? Does the engine need to be raised?
I'm worried :( that the new opti may get wet and blow out again $$$. My wife is going to kill me!!!