I want to add a nitrous system to my '86 and was looking at the 150 shot NOS plate system. A retard control is recommended by forum members witch means adding an MSD igniton control and retard control because I'm running a chip. The NX EFI single nozzel system says no retards and no fuel pump upgrades. Does anyone have any experience with, or opinons about, both of these systems. Thanks for the help

 

An upgraded fuel pump is not mandatory with that kit unless you've already done a ton of other HP enhancements. As for the retard, you could just set your distributor back all the time if you want.

 

While NX says you don't exactly need retards or fuel pump upgrades, it's always a good idea when going over a 100 shot to think about both.

The Powerstar systems I sell are also of the single nozzle variety, and thus far everybody I've sold them to are very satisfied (just ask Legion21 about his, for example!). I've extended the "forum special" pricing on these for the time being, so drop me a PM if you're interested.

 

I love my NS kit and recommend it to anyone. As long as your fuel system is up to par (mine checked in at 41psi) you shouldn't need any fuel system upgrades. I also dont run any spark retard at the jetting I'm running (125hp). It took my car from being able to barely outrun Dodge Magnum SRT8's and GTO's at the track to stomping a hole in them. Buy the NS kit and save the money for an ignition box and window switch.

Greg

 

I have used the nx kits on my other cars and on a 150 shot did not need to retard timing...(start with a small shot and work your way up )

 

Not retarding the timing on a 150 shot is just plain stupid. Just because one person get's away with it doesn't mean you will. If you catch a bad tank of gas, have some excessive carbon built up on top the pistons or have any other of 100 different conditions that could increase your chances of detonation you are risking the entire rotating assembly. Just because 94vette1's car doesn't detonate with no timing retard on a 150 shot doesn't mean your's won't. Maybe he get's better gas than you, maybe his engine has lower miles, tighter rings, looser rings, more end play, less end play, maybe his base timing is different than your car, maybe he has a completely different engine in his 94 (Like, I dunno, an LT1!) than you do in your 86, maybe his engine is reverse cooled so it is less prone to detonation, there are literally hundreds of things that might make it work on his car where it won't on yours. A single round of detonation on a 150 shot can do serious, if not fatal harm to your engine, especially using the stock components. Don't listen to the guys telling you not to pull timing using a 150 shot, they won't be the ones opening their wallet's when the engine detonates and shatters a piston.

Pull 2-4 degree's out of the engine by turning the distributor, and just live with the slight power loss when you're running no juice. Once you can afford the ignition box, hook your new box up and verify that it is pulling timing by activating the N20 system with the solenoids disconnected and a timing light on the engine. Once you know the box it working, put the 2-4 degree's you pulled back in by setting the distributor back where it was.

 

I agree.....Like I said before(trust me)..Pull 2 degrees per 50 HP to start with...with my car pulling 6-7 degrees I lose 10-12 HP on the dyno(almost nothing).....Run 1-2 steps colder plugs......and I would also "at least" install a push style walbro pump so that if your stock pump were to surge under acceleration (or god forbid fail) you won't go lean (which it easily can)....also use a fuel pressure safety switch(hobbs switch).....half the guys that think they have X amount of fuel pressure, don't even test it while their doing a pass, they check things at idle , sometimes with a vacuum line pulled to simulate full throttle(this way only tells part of the story)......these few things are "in my book" the bare minimum for just "moderate" engine safety while running a 150 shot....one split second of going lean on that shot and the motor will be toast

 

sorry been doing this for so long that I forget to fill in the blanks.. i have a window switch,fuel pressure switch and also a a/f switch, and audible knock sensor.
I always run at 900psi always.

pulling timing is always a good thing and you may only lose max 10hp when not on the juice

 

Thanks alot guys, I was thinking of the NX system trying to avoid the cost of an MSD ignition upgrade, but the more I read about nitrous systems, and ask questions on the forum, To me it seems stupid to not run a retard device and have a good fuel pump. It's cheap Ins. Thanks again for all the great info.

 

Regardless of what system you run, you're already ahead of the game if you accept the fact you need a good supply of fuel and the means to retard the spark. A lot of guys do find this out the hard way!

 

I didn't even read through everyones' posts on here, but it sounds like the consensus is to pull timing with the nitrous.

If this were true, why is NX saying not to pull timing. That defeats the whole purpose of running a wet kit system. That is why the fuel is there, to prevent the need to pull timing. NX has had YEARS and YEARS of experience with this stuff, I'd trust them.

I run a 150-shot NX kit with an independent fuel system, the only other add ons I have on the nitrous is a window switch and low fuel pressure cutoff switch. I use a fuel pressure regulator to get the right AFR at WOT from about 4k rpm on up to 7500. With the right amount of fuel, your AFR should read right with little to no knock.

Granted, most people don't have the type of setup I have, but you can still do something similar without pulling timing. In 99% of all situations, you can tap into your stock fuel system up to 150-shot without starving your injectors, but to achieve your desired AFR, simply bypass your fuel line with a regulator so you can adjust the pressure.

You can pull timing if you want to, but then why bother running a wet kit, just go dry and save the trouble. Just my $.02.