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You have larger injectors than stock and you're running rich. Hmmm....
Has any chip tuning been done to compensate for the bigger injectors? You could reduce your fuel pressure to get the flow rate back in the ball park. Try a 5-10% reduction in fuel pressure.
Yes, the man that owned it before me said he sent the chip to Oklahoma to have the timing changed on it. I don't know why. I tried calling him back yesterday but he didn't call back. My father has a ECM out of a 88 and I am going to switch them out when I get my hands on it since it will be free. I've don't everything, except get a scan, to troubleshoot the rich problem. Yes, with the larger injectors and the fuel pressure running around 40-42, I am running on the high side of fuel pressure and it would probably benefit me to get a AFPR. I do understand that if the different ECM doesn't do anything then I will need a scan. Take the information along with my chip and have it tuned.
I got the other ECM yesterday, but didn't think I would be able to install it until Wed. I got to work this morning and work was slow so I went out and disconnected the old ECM and connected the other ECM with it hanging under the dash. I started it up and it ran a little smoother than before, but still a little rich. While it was warming up I grounded the ALDL and put it in field service mode. The SES light blinked about 3 times/sec (rich). Then I believe it went closed loop and the light stayed on for a while and then started blinking 3 times/sec again, going back and forth between the two. With the old ECM it would blink one time/sec showing the ECM was detecting a normal mixture. I haven't got a chance to drive it yet and I know the ECM will have to learn the fuel curve so I hope it will do some correcting. Well well!!!
Hell no I couldn't stand it. I do actuallly have my timing light in my car. I might get a chance to check it out, but that might be pushing it. It might look a little weird with the hood up and me holding a timing light, but I don't care. What can they do fire me.
Anything else I might look at....I also have my volt/ohm meter?
That's about all I'd do until I could take it for a 20 minute drive. I couldn't quite understand what you meant "going back and forth" I didn't see where you said this was going back to normal...just 3 times a second. After closed loop, is it now blinking 1 time per sec.?
That's about all I'd do until I could take it for a 20 minute drive. I couldn't quite understand what you meant "going back and forth" I didn't see where you said this was going back to normal...just 3 times a second. After closed loop, is it now blinking 1 time per sec.?
Well it would blink 3 times/sec then the light would stay on for about 3 sec. It did this for a few minutes....3x/sec, on for 3 sec, 3x/sec, on for 3 sec. It did blink one time/sec but not for long. I hope that driving it will clear some things up. I didn't mention this morning, that I just pulled in to work and the damn thing died on me. I got it to start and just before I pull in to park it died again. Would not start. I pushed it into the parking spot and ran inside to clock-in. I went back out and my fuel pressure gauge is still hooked up and it read 20. When I turned the key it would even move. I went to the rear and shook the gas tank and empty. My fuel gauge on the dash said I have 1/2 tank. I left work for 20 min to get some gas and it started right up.
I just went out and check my timing. It's waaaaaaay advanced now. It's no where near the timing teeth. I would say it is at 20 or maube even more (about 2 inches advanced from timing teeth). I don't have my 14 mm wrench to loosen the distrubitor with me. This would make it run rich.
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