Well today I went to pull my 85a4 out of the garage for a wash. Last time I drove the car was Friday afternoon, and it was perfectly fine then. No problems at all. However, today I went to start it, and it would not start. I mean, it would start, but would not run unless I put my foot on the gas and revved it. And then if I released my foot from the gas, it would idle at about 350 for a few seconds before dying. This is the same problem I had two weeks ago when I removed and cleaned the TB. It was idling real low and dying- then I realized I made a terrible mistake by not reconnecting the air duct to the tb, so the MAF was not getting a reading- duh! After I reinstalled the duct, all has been fine until now. Now the problem is back, but the duct is in place.

So I removed the duct and peered through the maf screen and I saw two small pieces of green debris (probably from a plant) stuck in the screen. I removed the maf clips from the other side and found a few more pieces of tiny debris. So I blew in to the maf to try and clear it up. I also disconnected the maf wire and reconnected it. Now I tried starting again, same result. I also noticed that after I shut the engine off, it would make a very bizarre rattling noise that I had never heard before. Anyway, I revved te engine for about 30 seconds, and now the car idles slightly higher, at about 400, and doesn't die. So I decided to take the car around the block to see how it drove. It drove perfectly normal, no issues at all. And when I got back after a 5 minute drive- the car was idling normal again! So now I don't even have a problem for now- but I have a feeling it will return.

Any suggestions as to what to check?

 

Are you getting any codes for MAF?
33 check the plug and wiring
34 check for air, vacuum leaks

 

If something was on the MAF hot wire, that would cause some nasty drivability. If you can see any soot or specks on it, using a bright light & magnifying glass, you can clean it. (Brakleen & blowgun)

(Really only a guess though with no scan data to go by.)

 

Unfortunately I don't own a code scanner yet. I may have to buy one this week though if this continues to happen.

 

Take a paper clip and bend it into a u shape. Insert it in terminals a and b of the diagnostic connector by your right knee. Turn key to the run position and read the blinking codes. If it is stored, it will help.

 

Why would he check for codes if his SES or Check Enginge Soon wasn't flashing?....if it weren't...then he hasn't thrown a code! Right???

 

No.

 

I waited for the car to cool down fully and went to start it again. Just like I suspected, the same result I was having before. Car starts, idles real low at about 300 rpm for a few seconds, then dies. Only after I rev the engine up and let it warm up will it idle normal.

I will try the paper clip idea tomorrow. How do I read the blinking codes?

 

When light dawns on the west coast, Dr. Lambert will be in to tell you how your fuel pump relay could be doing this to you. Please wait here, the doctor will be in soon.

 

To check for codes..above your right knee, while in the drivers seat, look up, or feel, and you'll find the ALDL, some still have the cap, it just slides off, on the top row..the two right hand pins are the ones you'll want to insert a paper clip..shaped like a U into...With the engine OFF, insert the paper clip, Turn the key ON..BUT DO NOT START, watch for the check engine light it should flash once...pause flash twice, this should happen 3 times, after this watch to see if it flashes differently...flash, flash , flash, pause flash, flash, flash would be a code 33.Keep watching, this should repeat 3 times. Keep watching, because you could have thrown more than one code. Write them down and post.DON'T FORGET TO REMOVE THE CLIP.

 

Ok guys, I did what you said about the paper clip. Like you said, first the check engine light beeped once, paused, beeped twice, and did that 3 times. Then for 3x it beeped twice, paused, beeped twice. Then it went back to the normal pattern. Does that mean a code 22? And if so what is a code 22?

 

TPS=throttle position sensor, that's code 22. Do you have the FSMs? Sounds like you did it, and read it right.

Oh, BTW, Rich said something funny, referring to me as Dr., and what he wanted me to let you know is..there are 3 relays which effect the MAF, the power, burnoff and the FUEL PUMP relay..it's in the FSM.

The TPS is one of our most important sensors!

 

The tps is adjustable in the 85 model year. It could be bad or simply misadjusted. A digital multimeter and the manual are needed to properly check and adjust it.

 

What are FSMs?

Also, do you think that the TPS could logically be causing the problem? It makes sense to me except, why would the problem virtually go away once the car warms up? I'm sure there is a reason for it, I just don't want to go after the TPS if that isn't the actual problem. But then again, if I am getting a code 22, I might as well anyway. Is a scan tool needed to adjust TPS? The only part I don't get about the TPS procedure is measuring the voltage. I have a digital volt meter, will that be sufficient?

 

FSMs, sorry, Factory Service Manuals or Helms manuals.Cheap tool, about $100.

I hate to type out trouble shooting for fear of making a typing mistake.
You can test the voltage and adjust without a scanner.

Should be .54V + or - .08V with throttle closed, about 5V at WOT.

 

FSMs, sorry, Factory Service Manuals or Helms manuals.Cheap tool, about $100.

I hate to type out trouble shooting for fear of making a typing mistake.
You can test the voltage and adjust without a scanner.

Should be .54V + or - .08V with throttle closed, about 5V at WOT.

SORRY FOR THE DUPE

 

On your 85 to adjust the TPS do the following:

1. Fashion 3 paper clips into little spears. Crimp both ends tight as they will be used to insert between the TPS sensor and wiring harness.
2. Place your new test tools (paper clips) between the harness and the TPS on all 3 terminals. Make sure they are making contact otherwise this won't work.
3. Turn the key to on (don't start the engine) and place the ground on one of the top 2 terminals that now have the paperclips in them. The other of the top 2 will be used for your red wire from your multimeter.
4. Loosen up the TPS bolts on the side of the TB.
5. With your multimeter on and the top 2 terminals now connected to your multimeter check the voltage and adjust til it hits .54v.
6. Tighten up the TPS, attach the wiring harness and start the car.
7. You could also somewhere along the line disconnect your battery for a minute to reset the codes.

Good luck!

Pretty simple and should get you closer to fixing your problem.