Alrighty, now this is something i've been seriously contemplating here for quite sometime.

i know my 84 already has an 85+ TPI fuel pump installed.

how much does this pump flow? i know TPI's had retarded high fuel pressure requirements whereas i only need 7-9psi.

aeromotive recommends the A1000 regulator for this, but it only handles pumps upto 150gph - thier universal one (same principal - same basic regulator) has an extra outlet, handles 250gph, and is 30 dollars cheaper. so i'm thinking of just using thier universal bypass regulator. it is a return style. they recommend something huge like 1/2 or 5/8 return line. however, would the smaller feed line already on the car be adequate for that purpose? this regulator will handle everything up to and including thier A2000 pump without issues according to thier site.

so i am thinking of using the stock feed line, running the new return line back to the tank...using the regulator....2 outlets to the carb and one for the nitrous system.

How much does the TPI pump flow?
how much power can that theoretically support?
is the feed line adequate, or should i run a new feed line also?
should i just bite the bullet and fuel cell the car with an A1000, all new feed and return, etc...and call it a day?

 

What kind of fuel requirements do you think this engine will demand? I have an '88 manual in the shop and will be glad to look it up for you later if you don't get a satisfactory answer in the meantime. It shouldn't be difficult to enlarge the return inlet at the tank if this should indeed prove necessary. I don't think a fuel cell would be required to deal with this unless you have another compelling reason for needing one.

 

well, i'm gonna estimate it'll be ultimately capable of around 600hp NA and 800 on juice as it sits, and more with further mods. i see heavily ported aluminum heads, full roller valvetrain, different cam, stroker etc in the future. i'd conservatively estimate total power on the bottle after aforementioned future mods to be 1000hp at the crank. i really don't see the TPI pump supporting that kind of fuel, but for now, NA street driven i'm liable to think it would be ok

i know the return line will have to be custom done, this is not really an issue.

cash is tight and i'm trying to cut corners yet leave room for the future. with the regulator i will be buying if i do decide to go fuel cell and different pump it will easily handle it.

 

so far i gots this list from jegs - any suggestions? i might try to order this week

Your cart contains:

Qty Remove Item Price Total

Remove
Universal Bypass Regulator
Part Number # 027-13301
$111.99 $111.99

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Remove Bypass Regulator Fitting Kit
3/8" NPT port plug
3/8" NPT to -10AN inlet fitting
3/8" to -6AN outlet fitting
3/8" NPT to -8AN return fitting
Installation Instructions
Part Number # 027-13301K2

$24.99 $24.99

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Remove
Fuel Inlet Fittings - Black
9/16''-24, -6 AN Holley 4500, Demon, 2 per package
Part Number # 555-110503
$9.99 $9.99

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Remove
Pro-Flow 200 Series Braided Hose
6' length
Part Number # 555-100911

$19.99 $19.99

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Remove
Pro-Flow 200 Series Braided Hose
15' length
Part Number # 555-100933

$79.99 $79.99

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Remove
Pro-Flow 200 Series Braided Hose
15' length
Part Number # 555-100923

$59.99 $59.99

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Remove
90 Degree Max Flow Swivel Hose End - Red/Blue
-10 AN 90° Hose End

Part Number # 555-100023

$14.99 $14.99

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Remove 90 Degree Max Flow Swivel Hose End - Red/Blue
-8 AN 90° Hose End

Part Number # 555-100022

$15.99 $15.99

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Remove 90 Degree Max Flow Swivel Hose End - Red/Blue
-6 AN 90° Hose End

Part Number # 555-100021

$11.99 $23.98

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Update
Subtotal: $361.90

 

Sounds like a lot of work for nothing.
Let me think about this and I will type as fast as I can It will take me a while.

 

I don't have all the part numbers but I will tell you what I have.
Aeramotive regulator,steel braided 1/2 lines.
I use the in tank 2000169 Warlbro pump.
I have the stock return line to the tank cut and steel brade hose to the regulator.I have 2 lines to my 1095 Barry Grant carb.
The stock return line on the car is cut and returns fuel to the tank.
Just so you know this system is set up at it's limit right now.
Yes you should have a 5/8 return line to the tank.The reason you need that big return line is that regulator tends to back up ,causing the presure to increase.If you set at 7 lbs the regulator will creep up to 8,9 10lbs and so on.I find the regulator works fine with that pump ,the 2000169 warlbor or how ever you say that dumb name .Small **** I don't get into or the correct name crap,I just do things that work.
I run from 10.20 to 10.90 with no problems.You will find the carb is hard to set up with the factory system ,hot and cold,but it does work and very well for me.
I am not going to reread this so any ? you have just type it back .If you want pics let me know.The races are on Thursday this week and I will be gone from thursday to sunday ,Long race weekend.
I use a barry grant out of tank pump that I have inline with the factory pump .That extra pump puts out about 125 psi of presure.I have turned both of them on at the same time and the regulator can't handel it.Psi goes off the scale and carb floods.
I was just tring to see if I needed both pumps.I use the out of tank pump from barry grant to operate the nitrous system ,the Zex primeter plate.
I have not used the nitrous yet ,I would have to get the NHRA license if I hit the nitrous .The engine I forgot to mention is a 434 ci.
Dyno figures are 577 TQ and 687 HP.I can put up to a 400 shot of nitrous.
I have the out of tank pump set up for the nitrous and had to drill and install a ford fuel line piece inside the tank for the external pump.
You will also need another Aeromotive regulator for the nitrous to lower the presure.I also have another Aeromotive regulator for a carbed car low presure that you would normaly use for a stock carbed car,to raise or lower the presure to the nitrous system.
Remember the new systems call for real small fuel hoses and high presure to deliver the fuel to the carb.The fuel jets in a carb are only the size of a nail head at most ,so you only need so much fuel to go through that little hole.
You can hook up a fire hose and still only get a small amount of fuel through the carb jet.Think about it.
It is better to have the bigger 5/8 hose for the return and the fuel presure will be more stable.
I have run mine like this for 4 mths now with no real problems.
You will find when you go through the traps ,the engine will stall due to the high fuel presure at the regulator and then the in tank pump lowering its presure suddenly.
Just be prepaired to restart the engine at 100 mph.
I run a vaccum pump for the brakes.
let me know if you need pics or info.

 

if you do have any pics or could snap a few that'd be great...

i'm sure i could trim a few bucks by going with some cheaper hoses since i'm not really looking for a system capable of 100psi or more...the whole system will be pressurized to maybe 10psi max...but i don't wanna have to bend any line either....so i guess i gotta either pucker up and bend some lines or pay for my laziness...

the braided line will be far easier to run front to back than anything else i can think of...

what really bugs me is the prices of these fittings...some of the 90 degree ones edging up on 20 bucks a pop! that a big expensive frickin hose!

and i don't really feel all that eager to restart my motor at the end of the track...sounds like i'll be doing a little bit of careful engineering on this part here...

 

The engine doesn't stall out everytime.Here is what I have found.
If I set up the carb and timing after the first run down the track it will be good for the weekend.
If you set your engine just by warming it up ,the motor tends to stall out the first pass down the track,and every pass after that.
I use 1/2 steel braided from Summit and the Russel fittings.
Comming from the regulator I used 3 ,90deg fittings that screw into the regulator and have rubber "o" rings where they screw into the regulator.
The cost for those were about 6.00 apiece at NAPA.
I installed a FPG in the regulator port.The most I use for presure is 71/2 lbs.
I used the russel fittings the streight ones less expensive.I can take pictures tomorrow.
I used the steel brade hose from Summit and only long enough to reach from where the fuel filter is on the frame and ran the hoses streight up to the plastic wheel well where I mounted the regulator.
Yes I cut off both the main fuel line their and return and installed ,2 hose clamps on each line ,no leaks so far.
I tried to install a screw in fitting at the fuel filter but you have another dumb chevy thing pipe thread and compression and so on crap fittings.
The fittings on the carb I had to change,to just brass push on fittings to fit inside the steel brade hose,I got the hose with the rubber inside not the plastic,steel brade.
To run hose to the tank is a pain in the ***.
You would have to junk the whole tank by the time you are done .
The old school was to install as big a hose as you can,new school is increse the presure keep the lines small.
If you run a 1/2 steel brade ,1/2 inch to the tank ,it is the same size inside the steel brade as you have now.you would have to find a pipe that sizeto install into the tank which would work but the evap loss line would be the only place you could tap in the line.

This was the most frustrating for me because of the lack of parts overhere.

 

those dumb (i use different term, not printable here) chevy pipe ends are called ''saginaw'' fittings....my local napa parts guy just started to sell fittings and nylon hose to match....the hose is cheap, the fittings are about 1/2 the price of aeroquip's gold (must be gold judging by their prices, just off color)...napa guy has 3/8'' and 5/16'' stuff, i didn't see anything larger in his kit..typically pressure ratings drop rapidly as tube sizes increase, maybe larger isn't available, i'll ask next time in.

several years ago i set up a bench test, found that large holley needle/seats push open at 11 psi and flood over

 

i hate those fittings....lol

 

I am loading pics ,hope this helps.

 

http://www.maui.net/~dive4me/fuel/2003_0707fuel0002.JPG

http://www.maui.net/~dive4me/fuel/2003_0707fuel0003.JPG

http://www.maui.net/~dive4me/fuel/2003_0707fuel0004.JPG

http://www.maui.net/~dive4me/fuel/2003_0707fuel0005.JPG

http://www.maui.net/~dive4me/fuel/2003_0707fuel0006.JPG

http://www.maui.net/~dive4me/fuel/2003_0707fuel0007.JPG

http://www.maui.net/~dive4me/fuel/2003_0707fuel0008.JPG

http://www.maui.net/~dive4me/fuel/2003_0707fuel0009.JPG

http://www.maui.net/~dive4me/fuel/2003_0707fuel0010.JPG


http://www.maui.net/~dive4me/fuel/2003_0707fuel0012.JPG

http://www.maui.net/~dive4me/fuel/2003_0707fuel0013.JPG

 

I have a 434 sb in my 84, started out building a 421 with modified CFI system flowing around 800 cfm. I never could get engine running the way I thought it should. My setup now is a 434, 12.8 comp dart pro 1 aulm heads, 650 lift 300 dur. comp roller, wieand port matched lo rise intake 750 mighty demon carb. My fueling situation worked this way. I switched to a v6 pump that had enough fp but not enough volume. I now use a LT1 pump. I used an aeromotive fpr for several years with a 355, 383, & 421 motor. The regulator I now use is a mallory with a return line. The pump is a solid 65 psi the mallory will bring it down to 4 lbs. I run at 6.5 lbs. I used stainless braided lines to carb & return from front of frame up to carb & back to stock metal return line at front of frame stock location. I allso used a threaded SS line at stock fuel filter location. The mallory FPR is much better than the aeromotive & about half the size. I hope this helps.

 

hey hip's still around!

everyone's coming out of the woodwork to help me along with this project...looks like im gonna owe alot of beer!

you're not having any issues with the mallory regulator? i've just never taken to them but it might be worth a try. do you have a part number for that if you remember? also, it seems all of mallory's regulators have a higher flow rating than the A1000...wonder if this contributed to your sucess with it?

 

Mallory 4309 from Summit around $75. The FPR is so much shorter than the aeromotive it mounts easily & out of the way on inner wheelwell above compressor lines comes with bracket. If you have never used a demon carb do yourself a favor get one. call tech dept. they will set it up take out of box, if it isn't right box back up & send back.I use the 750 mighty demon double pump, no choke horn in line FP gage a work of art.

 

I guess its a good thing demon was the only carb I considered from day 1 when I knew cfi was out of the question...

 

Part numbers for Aeromotive system.I use the in tank pump 20000169 Warlboro for the engine in tank.
p/n13204 regulator converts to 3-15 lbs from EFI.
2 of these regulators will be required if running EFI pumps.
P/N 13201 is for the nitrous system.regulator.
Nitrous pump system P/N 11109 external pump.
You have to run return lines for both regulators.

 

Thought I would jump in here!





I am running the factory in-tank pump and stock fuel lines up to the front clip. It that point I am running braided -6 line up to the Mallory #4309 regulator, -6 braided line return line and -8 line feeding the demon carb with a Russell fuel log/rail thing (I dont know what they are called?)

It has not fired yet, but this weekend is the turn key date!

RedC4, I love your air filter idea! I am running a 1 1/4" drop base filter bottom with an Accell 2" filter element and the factory hood closes with room to spare. I really like the filter top idea though. I could make up a ring with a 3/4 inch lip and it would still sit under the hood.

Awesome idea!!!!!

 

The bottom of the air cleaner is the 14 inch diameter stock 4500 searies that jegs sells.
The top is the K&N .
I had to remove my 2 inch plate under the carb,it still runs 10.70 at nk127.00 mph.
I do have one problem as you may have also.The throttle arm inside the car is not strong enough to operate the dominator.I only get 3/4 throttle.
I also have the plastic piece under the gas peddel replaced with the alum bilit piece from I think RD racing.
If I set the throttle at 3000 rpm then the carb has about 1/8 left it is not opening.
I need to make a throttle arm that is stronger.
Now the trans broke again .
1&2 broke out of the 700r4 this time .This was supose to be the unbreakable trans from monster in Florida,don't go out and buy one they are junk.
20 passes and bang.
Trans number 4 comming up.
I told them the engine was making over 700 hp at the crank and it was writen on the order for the trans guy.Of course they said they don't pay for hard parts ,Blaha.
I would deal with Raptor trans in Louisana next time ,they were honest,said no one can build a 700r4 to hold that HP.
I also have the ability to put my 2 stage 400 hp shot on it .I know the trans will not hold that.
I am still running the D44 with 3.33 in the rear,I though that would break first.