94 LT1 Opti Replacement Report
· Replaced Intake manifold gaskets
· Replaced water pump
· Replaced Optispark (modified new opti for fresh air venting)
· Replaced timing cover gasket and the three seals in the cover
· Replaced oil pan gasket
· Replaced wires
· Replaced plugs
· Radiator was cleaned and flushed by Dougan’s Radiator
· Replaced all cooling and heater hoses
· Replaced knock sensors
· Flushed engine block
· Flushed heater core
· New Antifreeze
· New Oil
· Replaced Air Cleaner
· Replaced expansion tank cap
It took me 59 hours to do this work, which includes the removal of the opti three times. READ ON. I could do it in half the time the next time. The entire job took about four weeks. I had to wait numerous times for parts and special tools. I bought the tool to install the WP seal in the timing cover and I’m glad I spent the money. I had a heck of a time getting the crank hub off but now I know how to do it in 15 minutes. I must have wasted 5 hours trying to get the damn thing off. I modified the opti using the tech article in Corvette Fever. When I went to install the newly modified opti I found that the mod to the cap hit the crank hub, argh! I ended up sealing the holes in the cap with the Plastex repair kit and cutting new holes. The dremel tool cut through the opti cap like it was butter. I finished the work and the engine started right up. I thought I was home free. NOT. After a test ride I noticed a puddle of oil under the car. After investigating I found oil on the front of the oil pan
. I figured the WP seal was leaking because that’s what everyone talked about on the forum as being the most likely leak area. So, I took the WP and opti off again. The timing cover was dry. I installed the WP seal correctly with the help of the Kent-More tool. ($45 for a little plastic tool). I figured it must be the oil pan gasket leaking because I didn’t replace it. I just dropped the pan to free the timing cover and put the pan back up. I replaced the oil pan gasket, installed the WP, opti, and filled the engine with coolant. Thinking I was done I took it for a ride. Came back, parked it in the garage and there’s the puddle of oil AGAIN!!! Now I decided to get scientific and I put dye in the oil (should have done this in the first place). With the UV light and a mirror I looked at the front of the pan and when I looked at the crank hub seal I could see it was leaking. Off comes the WP and opti AGAIN. I checked with the UV light to make sure the WP seal and opti seal wasn’t leaking and they were dry. The damn crank hub gave me a pain again but as I said before I know how to do it now. The crank hub had a score line where the old seal was. I just overlooked this the first time around. Another lesson learned. I installed a felpro sleeve and new seal. NOW it doesn’t leak. The total for all the parts came to $1200. Sure adds up. Oh, did I mention when I was removing the hose on the passenger side of the throttle body the metal inlet broke right off? That was $100 for the housing that goes on the bottom of the throttle body. This concludes my Opti Modification report. I took lots of pictures. If your in the CT area and need help with and opti mod look me up. I may have it right by that time. I want to thank all the forum members who provide advise and support.
Thanks Guys
Tom Powers
Tom Powers
Tom Piper
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Thanks





The pictures are for reference when I put it back together. I didn't take the picture of the puller attached to the hub.










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