L98 Dissasembly Questions...
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 6,694
Likes: 3
From: Less Talk, More WOT | Houston TX
L98 Dissasembly Questions...
I have the block out of the car and on a stand. I am stripping it down to take to the machine shop to get cleaned up. I have the oil pan off, oil pump out, heads, valvetrain, cam, timing chain and gear all pulled. Those bolts on the flywheel are locked down tighter than fort knox, and I have no way to keep the engine from turning when i try to break them loose. Also, once that is done, whats the best way to remove the rod/piston assembly and crank? Do i just disconnect the rod from the crank and pound it out with a wood dowel and a BFH? 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,130
Likes: 2
From: seattle WA
Put a block of 2x4 between the block and crank counter weight.With the engine upside down on the mount, remove the caps...but number them and keep them in order, along time ago I did another stupid thing,
now I make it a practice to use short pieces of rubber tubing on the rod bolts before I move em.
now I make it a practice to use short pieces of rubber tubing on the rod bolts before I move em.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 14,924
Likes: 9
From: Merritt Ils Fl
What Rick said about the 2X4. The bolts you are taking out have star washers behind each one. That is what makes them kinda hard to remove even though the torque is not that great. Number each bearing cap with a tough paint. Mains from front to back. Do this before you remove the first one. Mix them and you are in for a line bore job.. Number each rod,both the cap and the rod itself. Again,before the first nut is loosened. All caps fit very tight, after the bolts/nuts are loose it will be necessary to tap the side of the cap to remove it from its saddle. What Rick said about rubber tubing over rod bolts. A crank is much softer than a rod bolt and can be chewed up very quickly. Make sure you catch the piston as you tap it out. When the last ring clears the cylinder bore it will fall out.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,036
Likes: 13
From: Edmonton AB
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,036
Likes: 13
From: Edmonton AB
Also, I vote AGAINST any kind of cap / rod marking that isn't
PERMANENT. Non-permanent marks will come off, stamp 'em
and be done with it.
Get a set of metal number stamps - these ones cost just $5.00
As was said, mark the parts before disassembly. Both halves of the
rod on either side of the parting line. Be sure to mark which way the
rods are oriented on the crank - if you are consistent then your numbers
will also serve this function.
.
PERMANENT. Non-permanent marks will come off, stamp 'em
and be done with it.
Get a set of metal number stamps - these ones cost just $5.00
As was said, mark the parts before disassembly. Both halves of the
rod on either side of the parting line. Be sure to mark which way the
rods are oriented on the crank - if you are consistent then your numbers
will also serve this function.
.
glad that was many motors ago.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 847
Likes: 1
From: spring branch texas
mark your rods on the sides too, I did mine on the top and sides the sides are important because you stamp both halves on the side which insures that you put the caps back on the right way. Marking the tops of the caps didn't do me any good because when they balanced the assembly they ground the top of the cap down
