Seeking input on recent rough idle.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 8,753
Likes: 9
From: Louisiana
Yes, if you plan on keeping the 95 much longer, investing in the FSM is a very good idea/tool. You can try switch out O2 sensors (good troubleshooting idea) and see if it's the sensor or wiring. I replaced the left front and it wasn't too difficult, just have to bend the heat shield out of the way. You will have to jack the car up and do this from underneath. Just let us know.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 747
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From: Wilmington NC
Thanks again, I will definitely keep the thread updated.
I am concerned about one thing. Other research on the forum has resulted in some conflicting info. This post seems to indicate that a Module 9 H64 means a TPS malfunction. It does seem rather odd that an O2 sensor malfunction would be in the ASR Module. However, I guess we'll find out when I do the reset...
I am concerned about one thing. Other research on the forum has resulted in some conflicting info. This post seems to indicate that a Module 9 H64 means a TPS malfunction. It does seem rather odd that an O2 sensor malfunction would be in the ASR Module. However, I guess we'll find out when I do the reset...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 8,753
Likes: 9
From: Louisiana
Module 9 is the ABS/ASR module number from 1994 through 1996. That guys was a 93. I don't have my 95 FSM in front of me so I can't confirm. The ABS/ASR shouldn't have anything to do with the O2 sensor.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,135
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From: Sebastian Florida
St. Jude Donor '06
Originally Posted by RRT vette
Module 9 is the ABS/ASR module number from 1994 through 1996. That guys was a 93. I don't have my 95 FSM in front of me so I can't confirm. The ABS/ASR shouldn't have anything to do with the O2 sensor.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 747
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From: Wilmington NC
I think the guy in his post was saying his 95 FSM stated that Module 9 H64 is a TPS issue, but was not sure about 93. However, since I don't have a FSM, I can't confirm it either.
I did reset the codes and then reset the IAC as well (figured what the heck). Although I haven't observed the "really rough" idle yet, there are still no codes displayed after 1hr on the interstate and 5-6 short in-town trips. I guess I wish it had thrown another code as the no codes really doesn't help. I'm going to let it be for the weekend and see how it runs this next week. I'm going to order a new IAC and TB gasket set so next weekend I can clean eliminate that issue.
I'll keep this updated...and thanks again to all of you for your help thus far!
I did reset the codes and then reset the IAC as well (figured what the heck). Although I haven't observed the "really rough" idle yet, there are still no codes displayed after 1hr on the interstate and 5-6 short in-town trips. I guess I wish it had thrown another code as the no codes really doesn't help. I'm going to let it be for the weekend and see how it runs this next week. I'm going to order a new IAC and TB gasket set so next weekend I can clean eliminate that issue.
I'll keep this updated...and thanks again to all of you for your help thus far!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,113
Likes: 35
From: LaUgH, mOrE!
[QUOTE=Dave95C4] I'm going to order a new IAC and TB gasket set so next weekend I can clean eliminate that issue.
QUOTE]
Don't know if this will help, but on my '96 A4 (with 49K miles), I removed and cleaned my TB and IAC this winter, with TB cleaner. The IAC pintle had all kinds of gunk on it--which would no doubt cause a rough idle. For simplicity, you may just want to pull the IAC off and look at the pintle. You may not have to replace it--just clean it and the TB area it sits in. I do not remember having to replace the IAC gasket. I used the blue loctite on the IAC bolt threads and torqued to specs.
QUOTE]
Don't know if this will help, but on my '96 A4 (with 49K miles), I removed and cleaned my TB and IAC this winter, with TB cleaner. The IAC pintle had all kinds of gunk on it--which would no doubt cause a rough idle. For simplicity, you may just want to pull the IAC off and look at the pintle. You may not have to replace it--just clean it and the TB area it sits in. I do not remember having to replace the IAC gasket. I used the blue loctite on the IAC bolt threads and torqued to specs.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 747
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From: Wilmington NC
Since i'm also around the 50k mark, I'm definitely going to check out that IAC, Gman...thanks! It just seems so difficult to actually get to the IAC to remove it, that removing the entire TB might not be a bad thing. Since I reset the IAC on Friday, I've had less of a rough idle...and there are still no codes showing.
I definitely need to at least clean out the IAC...but if I can find a replacement for $30, I really don't think that's such an expense after ten years and 56k miles!
I just hope the IAC is the source of the problem! I'll continue to update this thread for posterity, if nothing else!
I definitely need to at least clean out the IAC...but if I can find a replacement for $30, I really don't think that's such an expense after ten years and 56k miles!
I just hope the IAC is the source of the problem! I'll continue to update this thread for posterity, if nothing else!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,113
Likes: 35
From: LaUgH, mOrE!
Originally Posted by Dave95C4
Since i'm also around the 50k mark, I'm definitely going to check out that IAC, Gman...thanks! It just seems so difficult to actually get to the IAC to remove it, that removing the entire TB might not be a bad thing. Since I reset the IAC on Friday, I've had less of a rough idle...and there are still no codes showing.
I definitely need to at least clean out the IAC...but if I can find a replacement for $30, I really don't think that's such an expense after ten years and 56k miles!
I just hope the IAC is the source of the problem! I'll continue to update this thread for posterity, if nothing else!
I definitely need to at least clean out the IAC...but if I can find a replacement for $30, I really don't think that's such an expense after ten years and 56k miles!
I just hope the IAC is the source of the problem! I'll continue to update this thread for posterity, if nothing else!
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 747
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From: Wilmington NC
Gman:
I could have been making the job harder for myself last weekend since I only had one T25 torx screwdriver. I'm sure the right tools would make the job easier. I'm pretty much a "learn as you go" type person and have done pretty much all the work to the car, so I guess having it for eight years and still being somewhat naive about repair work isn't necessarily a bad thing.
Thanks for that suggestion. I'll give the IAC a second go this weekend, even if I'm not able to get the TB gaskets and do a "spring cleaning" on the whole thing.
I could have been making the job harder for myself last weekend since I only had one T25 torx screwdriver. I'm sure the right tools would make the job easier. I'm pretty much a "learn as you go" type person and have done pretty much all the work to the car, so I guess having it for eight years and still being somewhat naive about repair work isn't necessarily a bad thing.
Thanks for that suggestion. I'll give the IAC a second go this weekend, even if I'm not able to get the TB gaskets and do a "spring cleaning" on the whole thing.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 747
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From: Wilmington NC
Out of curiousity (and possibly simplicity) I called the local Chevy dealer to inquire as to prices on the TB gasket set and IAC valve. I hated to laugh at the guy when he said $128.24 for the IAC and $28.30 for the gasket set. Would anybody happen to know the GM Part # of the TB Gasket set?
GM IAC #: 17113099
GM IAC #: 17113099
Last edited by Dave95C4; Jun 6, 2006 at 09:59 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,113
Likes: 35
From: LaUgH, mOrE!
Originally Posted by Dave95C4
Gman:
I could have been making the job harder for myself last weekend since I only had one T25 torx screwdriver. I'm sure the right tools would make the job easier. I'm pretty much a "learn as you go" type person and have done pretty much all the work to the car, so I guess having it for eight years and still being somewhat naive about repair work isn't necessarily a bad thing.
Thanks for that suggestion. I'll give the IAC a second go this weekend, even if I'm not able to get the TB gaskets and do a "spring cleaning" on the whole thing.
I could have been making the job harder for myself last weekend since I only had one T25 torx screwdriver. I'm sure the right tools would make the job easier. I'm pretty much a "learn as you go" type person and have done pretty much all the work to the car, so I guess having it for eight years and still being somewhat naive about repair work isn't necessarily a bad thing.
Thanks for that suggestion. I'll give the IAC a second go this weekend, even if I'm not able to get the TB gaskets and do a "spring cleaning" on the whole thing.
1. Read the directions.
2. Use the right tools.
3. Try cleaning it first. (Solves 50% plus of problems)
4. Get good advice.
5. Take your time. (Not always easy to do)
6. Finally,... if all else fails, use a bigger hammer.
G-Man
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 8,753
Likes: 9
From: Louisiana
Dave, I don't know if you want to go with only GM parts, but Autozone sells a IAC for $30 with IAC gasket and the TB gaskets (2) go for about $4. This would be a lot cheaper than the price you gave. So no codes have shown up since resetting them???
