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Is it possible to remove the fuel pump without dropping the tank? I had the fuel door off and it looked like it may be possible to remove the fuel pump through that opening. Have any of you guys tried this?
this is actually a nice (easy) job
everything comes out from the top.
it's a stand up job.
remove Flip-Lid bodypanel
remove rubber Spill Boot from around filler spout.
disconnect electrical connector (with chinese jigsaw puzzle lock thing)
disconnect three fuel hoses
undo 9 bolts (10mm socket)
wiggle wiggle up and out
the whole kit and kaboodle
Yes, the fuel pump/sending unit assembly is removed from the top without dropping the tank. Remove the rubber boot around the filler neck and you'll see I think 10 or so 10mm bolts. Disconnect the plug from the harness, remove the bolts, and pull the assembly out. Be careful not to bend anything. When reassembling replace the rubber gasket and use a SMALL amount permatex #2 on the tank gasket side leaving the gasket assembly side dry. Therefore, if you ever need to pull the assembly again the gasket will remain in place and seated. Really, Permatex is not needed but its the way I did mine. FYI, do not use any type of RTV (silicone sealant). RTV and gas do not mix.
Good Luck
I replaced mine last week. Be carefull when puting it back in, the float lever needs to be outside the plastic bowl(look inside with a flashlight. Mine is still sticking and I stay on Full for about 200 miles, then if I hit a bump just right, I suddenly need to find a gas station very soon :eek:
I think my float arm may have been bent, still working on it.
Here's a recent tip from Gordon Kilabrew's lecture at Corvettes at Carlisle.
If your L98 (especially '88 & '89) is sometimes hard to start or won't start and you have no fuel pressure but have power to the connector above the fuel tank, remove the gas cap and give a sharp rap on the filler pipe. If that "fixes" the problem temporarily, remove the pump assembly and unplug the small black connector just under the flat metal plate that bolts to the tank. Clean the three pins and use some tuner cleaner to clean the sockets. These pins and socket become oxidized over time and can eventually precent power from getting to the pump.
I heard this in one of his lectures and later saw him "fix" one of the 35ths that wouldn't start and had no fuel pressure at the Schraeder valve. The following day, during another lecture at the 35th Registry tent, he later pulled the fuel pump and cleaned the aforementioned contacts.
Actually, this would a good R & R whenever the fuel pump is replaced and the assembly is out of the gas tank.
Whow! What timing. Well, I guess a bit late. After all my pump replacement, and such, this was the problem.
Actually it was that the hot wire was intermittently disconnecting at the point it enters the tank. The wire outside the tank was getting 12v, but just under the inside of the tank, no voltage. Other than breaking the plastic connecter that goes through the tank lid, I couldn't figure how to fix. So, I got an assembly from my local corvette salvage yard. Now I have an extra :rolleyes:
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