L98 front seal replacement
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 602
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From: North Bay Ontario
L98 front seal replacement
Anybody done this lately? I'm starting to see a few drops of oil on the cross member just below the front seal. I'm thinking I can drop the rack and pinion, pull the pulleys and pop it out from the bottom without coming down through the top and removing the 'plumbing'. Any hints or words of wisdom before I get my fingers dirty??
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,518
Likes: 19
Tough job to do in the car, but doable. You will likely find that the rubber seal surface has worn a groove in the steel snout. They make a few dollar sleve that presses on. I would buy it and the seal so you are prepared for the worst when it comes apart.
Pro
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 541
Likes: 2
From: Kalama WA
Are we talking about the front crank seal here?? If it is, the seal runs against the inner hub of the harmonic balancer. I just did mine. Pulled the power steering res, broke the harmonic bal nut loose and pulled it. Then removed the seal from the timing cover and replaced. Not hard at all and didn't remove the rack or any major stuff. I had to replace the balancer on mine, spun loose on the hub.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 12,772
Likes: 17
From: Indianapolis IN
I have done it, just pull the pan, take the motor mount bolts off and jack the motor up, you might have to pull the distrbutor.
A few months ago, I changed all of the rod and crank bearings with the motor in the car.
OOPS, I meant rod and crank, not cam bearings
A few months ago, I changed all of the rod and crank bearings with the motor in the car.
OOPS, I meant rod and crank, not cam bearings
Last edited by LD85; May 28, 2006 at 09:43 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 4,290
Likes: 140
From: Salem NH
Originally Posted by LD85
I have done it, just pull the pan, take the motor mount bolts off and jack the motor up, you might have to pull the distrbutor.
A few months ago, I changed all of the cam and crank bearings with the motor in the car.
A few months ago, I changed all of the cam and crank bearings with the motor in the car.
-- Joe
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 602
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From: North Bay Ontario
In response to Pete K - yes, I've heard about the possibility of a groove and actually been able to feel it with a fingernail, in other situatations, a new seal usually compensated for the groove but I'll ask and try to have both seals on hand, presuming the seal with the sleeve application will be a different diameter.
A bit of variation though, on everyone's opinions about how to approach it - from the top, jacking the engine, removing the pan - what were the reasons for removing the pan? I thought the bottom access route looked easiest with the rack dropped out of the way - but you've got me thinking, maybe best to leave the rack just where it is, and come in from the top.
A bit of variation though, on everyone's opinions about how to approach it - from the top, jacking the engine, removing the pan - what were the reasons for removing the pan? I thought the bottom access route looked easiest with the rack dropped out of the way - but you've got me thinking, maybe best to leave the rack just where it is, and come in from the top.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,036
Likes: 13
From: Edmonton AB
From the '89 FSM
Page 6A1-12
Engine Front Cover Oil Seal
With Cover Installed
Remove or Disconnect
1.) Torsional Damper. Refer to "Crankshaft Torsional Damper," this section
2.) Pry seal out of cover from front, being careful not to damage cover
Install or Connect
1.) Seal using J 35468 so that open end of seal is toward inside of cover
The image of the tool displays a hockey puck-shaped object presumably
the diameter of the seal and a what appears to be a soft hammer being
used to tap it.
.
Page 6A1-12
Engine Front Cover Oil Seal
With Cover Installed
Remove or Disconnect
1.) Torsional Damper. Refer to "Crankshaft Torsional Damper," this section
2.) Pry seal out of cover from front, being careful not to damage cover
Install or Connect
1.) Seal using J 35468 so that open end of seal is toward inside of cover
The image of the tool displays a hockey puck-shaped object presumably
the diameter of the seal and a what appears to be a soft hammer being
used to tap it.
.
Last edited by Slalom4me; May 28, 2006 at 10:54 PM.
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Racer
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 460
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From: MN
Originally Posted by Pete K
Tough job to do in the car, but doable. You will likely find that the rubber seal surface has worn a groove in the steel snout. They make a few dollar sleve that presses on. I would buy it and the seal so you are prepared for the worst when it comes apart.
Listen to Pete K's advise! I wish I knew about the sleve before I removed the balancer twice for leaks. Just a couple of bucks at the parts store.
