Okay, I figured I needed to get this out as he is busy, and i took his technical advice and knowledge he sent me pics of and applied it to my 58MM AS&M throttle body.
As you know allot of us have had issues with the throttle body not going WOT. Well, we were able to adjust to WOT, but the blades wouldnt come back all the way. Well, Bluewasp figured it out and voila it works perfectly.
1st pic is the tool I used. Bluewasp used a different Dremel Bit, but it accomplished the same idea.
First thing you do is adjust to WOT, then leave it and slowly grind down till the throttle comes all the way back to the stop.

2nd-5th pic shows how far within the throttle body cable run I ground down. I basically ground from the center of the cable/throttle bracket to the end, towards driver, one quarter of an inch deeper ( 1/4"), therefore shortening the bracket, and allowing the throttle to come back all the way. Do this a little at a time till it comes all the way back to the stop. It ends up being a half in down from top.
Next pic shows, from an angle, where I ground within the throttle cable bracket.





Last pic shows, on the right, the one I ground down. The one on the left is the shows the factory untouched one, of which I had a spare laying around for it. This should show you how far I went down, sorta.

Now, there will be tons of questions. Hopefully I can get them to you all soon. Thanks to Bluewasp, he actually did all the work, I just am posting mine done.
And here is one of Bluewasps to get an idea where and how far he went into hi. I dint have o go this far, but it could be because of how far overall I cut down and or his angle of cut.

 

I too have had issues with AS&M TB's.
Poor QC, I had to sell my AS&M TB at a big loss...

 

Bluewasp has his stuff together for C4's

 

Steve, did you try swapping your stock bracket onto the ASM?

 

 

Yes, I had two different throttle bodies, one from the Vette and one from an Impala. Neither worked.
Maybe mine has stretc or some other "Steveism" associated with it.

 

I think this shows the poor engineering that went into the aftermarket for these throttle bodies. Even worse is the Holley i have that doesn't even have a throttle stop. Even if i used your method to get it to go wot, what happens when i adjust the throttle screw? Would i have to machine more or less just because i just changed the amount needed for it to open?

Im going to send my stocker to get bored to 52mm. when i head to the dyno again for more tuning i plan on getting a before and after a swap to a 58mm a friend has (tpis). Lets see what the difference really is on a 7800 rpm 530 rwhp LT4. if the Tpis 58mm gains me more than 5rwhp over a broad range and if my acceleration rate increases than i will sure as hell have one overnighted and installed.

 

Do you have to adjust the TV cable now? It looks like you were grinding on the TB bracket. You can also slot the holes in the plenum cable bracket, witch may be easier.

If you don't have a throttle stop screw, the butterflys will grove the TB bore and make the throttle be slightly sticky, binding slightly coming off zero throttle.

 

The TV cable did not needing adjustment. Just the throtle cable for WOT.
I have a throttle stop screw, and there is plenty of adjustment in that, so I dont see what you mean in the buterfylys will groove the TB.

 

If you adjust the throttle screw, I dont think it will make any difference. All we did was allow the throttle to come back to the set idle, as we were always trying to go to WOT, and Bluewasp just went the other way as our throttle cable system has plenty of room to adjust for WOT, but no adjustment, very small at least, for idel.
Regardless it worls, and there is plenty of adjustment left in the cable for idle , if I moved it a little, which on mine I dont.
But if you look at BlueWasps, he went much further than mine, and his works. SO I think this method of adjusting for WOT shows there is plenty of leeway in the way we did it.

 

ttt for the guys that may have missed this, as I feel there are a few people that need to know.

 

I did not...

 

Why would you adjust the screw? There is no need to do that if you change the ramp angle on the cam. If you adjust the screw then the blades won't close.

I could either adjust the TB to WOT or to rest on the screw but not both.

I made 5 passes with the dremel tool and checked the operation. I made about 30 passes with the dremel set a LOW speed.

if you look at the cam as you open and close the TB you will notice the front part of the cam is used (controls cable length) for WOT and the the rear half would control the close position. I just divided the cam in half and started cutting. the angle is wrong on the cam.

 

It looks like this method may work on the BBK which suffers from the same problem.

 

good pic's