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Yeah I found the same thing, since I am in no real big hurry I have been collecting the necessary parts for the install. Didn't he say the end of June he would be picking back up?
He did say that. E-mail I received mentioned that he was moving 2000 miles and would be back in action at the end of June. Suits me ok because I have time to wait.
Not sure yet, I have less than 100 miles on it so far and it isn't running all that well. Considering I changed just about everything at once I'm going to need some time to sort this out.
If I was to do it again, I would do a LT1 block as well and avoid most of these problems.
I could have kept the A/c but it hasn't worked for years so I figured I could use the room and save some weight.
With the EGR bosses removed the large distributer fits fine.
Not sure yet, I have less than 100 miles on it so far and it isn't running all that well. Considering I changed just about everything at once I'm going to need some time to sort this out.
If I was to do it again, I would do a LT1 block as well and avoid most of these problems.
I could have kept the A/c but it hasn't worked for years so I figured I could use the room and save some weight.
With the EGR bosses removed the large distributer fits fine.
Any news on how it's running now?Were you able to run the stock fpr with the HEI ?Did you have to shorten accel cable?if so how?Have you had any leaks or dist. problems? thanks
I just did the conversion myself. It really wasn't that bad.
I'm using sportsman II heads so I had to have extra material welded to the edges of the intake as well
I did convert to a small distributor, i was able to get the harness from some TPI parts place in maryland, maybe someone can help me out with the name
Bolting the manifold up to the early-style heads was a pain in the *** with the 2 middle bolts! i had to clearance the snot out of the intake with a air grinder
what else... let's see.. the AIR pump bracket had to be ground down a tiny but to make room for the throttle linkage. i used an lt-1 fuel pressure regulator
i managed to get the entire intake set up already converted for like $450 shipped, which included fuel lines and the regulator.
i havent had it running yet, for some reason the stupid thing wont start here's a picture of it mostly installed:
Any news on how it's running now?Were you able to run the stock fpr with the HEI ?Did you have to shorten accel cable?if so how?Have you had any leaks or dist. problems? thanks
Actually, I had it running for two weeks, then I blew out an intake gasket at 6000 rpm.
When I disassembled the intake, I had a few bolts that were loose. I did not use any lock-tight but plan on using it when I reassemble this time.
I was also using a FelPro 1205 gasket which is rubber vs. the stock metal composite. This may have contributed to my failure.
I shortened the throttle cable by making up a replacement end from a 1/4" bolt and then tack welding the end onto the cable.
What about the FPR? I have a fuel rail that connects on the drivers side,can the stock LT1 FPR be used with the hei and the rail I have?The egr boss will be ground.Thanks
What about the FPR? I have a fuel rail that connects on the drivers side,can the stock LT1 FPR be used with the hei and the rail I have?Thanks
Yes it will work with the large cap HEI and the stock LT1 fuel pump (drivers side exit). I am doing the conversion but using the Corvette (passenger side) exit fuel rails and it will not clear the large cap HEI. The schrader valve hits the HEI distributor.
With my conversion, I am not sure from what car my fuel rail can from but it was a driver side exit. I had to just rotate/flip the supply line to exit the pass side. That puts the schrader valve pointing down and make it unusable to relieve fuel pressure. Then I massaged the mounting bracket for the FPR so the regulator sits straight up instead of angled. This allows the big dist to clear everything.
1. definitely need to locktite the intake bolts or they may loosen up
2. need to also have locks on the header bolts or they fall right out
3. LT intakes have dedicated idle passages - need to add an idle bleed hole in the middle of the l98 throttle body so that most of the idle air goes through this passage.
4. The standard l98 airfoil blocks the off too much of this iac air passage, I saw a 50 count change in my IAC valve with and without the air foil.
5. 6000 rpm is really nice on the track, changes the whole character of the car.
But I am still playing with the IAC and the chip. It doesn't idle very good and runs rich.
I have a dyno tune appointment in August to get these sorted out.