I am replacing the lower ball joints on my 94. I thought "while I'm in there" (which is how small projects become big projects) I would replace the lower control arm rubber bushings with poly. I bought the ball joints and the offset LCA bushings from VBP. Unfortunately, the bushings did not include instructions. VBP has been very helpful but they do not have written instructions available. The offset bushings come with a drill bit, and 4 set screws which I interpret as needing to drill into the LCA and using the screws to keep the offset bushing oriented correctly. Not sure if I'm comfortable drilling the LCA. Has anyone installed these bushings?
Can anyone provide the basic instructions? Are they worth the extra effort? I'm considering returning them for the regular poly bushings. I have done the complete rear with VBP bushings so I am comfortable with those.
Thanks for any help.

 

Rick, I've bought the whole front-to-rear regular poly "package" from VBP and am just about ready to start the project.

Having, done the rear, and in light of the fact that there are no instructions, can you advise me?

Thanks,
Bruce:o

 

i've installed those on my '96. it really is as simple as you state. i honestly can't remember how i decided to orient the holes.

drilling the holes and using the set screws has kept the bushings from rotating at all (i marked them) in a few years' worth of auto-xing on sticky tires.

-michael

edit: you're going to love the added front-end grip!

 

Do the bushings have different shoulder thicknesses?

Do you have a link to these? I've never seen em.

 

Here is a link to VBP's site. It is part 32108. Unfortunately, no pictures.

http://www.vbandp.com/detail.aspx?ID=864

The bushings look like any other VBP bushing except the hole where the metal center sleeve goes is off center. Putting the "skinny" portion (I think) of the bushing to the inside of the car pushes the lower control arm out by moving the LCA mounting bolt out slightly. Therefore allowing more negative camber. I hope that makes sense. Anyway, I think I have the basic concept I just am not sure where and how to use the set screws to keep the bushing from rotating due to the off center hole.

 

Bruce,
Sorry for the delay in responding. Trying to take care of my situation.

The job isn't too bad as long as you have some time and patience (mine is not a daily driver, this was a winter project, and i was also replacing a broken rear spring.) The worst part is getting the old bushings out. I tried the drill out method with NO luck. I finally bought a small A frame press from Harbor Freight.
I pushed the metal sleeves out of the old bushings and then pulled the rubber out with pliers. You could probably push the whole bushing out by using a socket to make the bar in the press wider but I didn't discover this until yesterday. Another option, I discovered yesterday is to use a ball joint press ( I hear you can borrow these from Autozone). I used this yesterday on my lower control arm bushings because the LCAs wouldn't fit in my small press. It worked great. I also tried the "burn em out" method yesterday. I can see how it would work but the press was better and faster for me.
Clean out the old bushing material area with emory cloth.
Another tip, which I found here, was to tape up the access holes inside of the rear control arms (dogbones). Apparently, some here have lost the nuts into these holes. I learned from their misfortune.
One thing about the VBP bushings. You will end up with two extra bushings (I bought the rear set only) because the strut rod bushing (IIRC) changed sometime during the C4 run.
Good luck,

 

My vote is that the bolt remains in the same position, but the
centerline of the LCA opening moves outward, relative to the bolt
centerline.

toe-MAY-toe / toe-MAH-toe

As long as you install them in the correct orientation, they move the
bottom of the suspension outward, relative to the top and you get
more additional adjustment for more negative camber.



.

 

From your post in AutoX & Racing

I do not know the answers but in the absence of replies from those
who do, I offer my OPINIONS.

I would install the screws on the upper outboard side (away from the
car's centerline). Outboard, because this puts the screws into the
meaty part of the bush. Upper, because I believe that the hole will
be in compression rather than tension here. If I could see a LCA,
I'd probably have more specific opinions on location.

If the screws are long enough to extend a bit into the surface of the
bush, then I would drill a small way (1/8"?) into it for two reasons:
a) to prevent localized binding, b) to positively locate the bush in
my desired location.

So much for my OPINIONS. What does VB&P say?

.

 

By the way - did you notice this remark within the description on
VB&P's site?
Here are instructions available for download from their site.
They mention use of a 3/16" drill bit to aid removal of OEM
bushings but there is no discussion of installation of set screws.

Poly Front Control Arm Bushings

Front Control Arm Bushings (C-4 Corvette)

.

 

I've printed these two or three times and studied them but the problem is...with a box FULL of poly bushings, and destroying the old ones to get them out, it seems to me it's going to be a major challenge to id the right parts for the appropriate location.

Rick, thanks for the dope.

I'll let you guys know how it goes.

 

"Another tip, which I found here, was to tape up the access holes inside of the rear control arms (dogbones). Apparently, some here have lost the nuts into these holes. I learned from their misfortune."

Gee. I thought I was the only dummy to have made this mistake



Larry

 

Can you just send VBP the Control arms and have them do it?
Cost?

 

When I emailed them, their reply was:

Me:

Hi, I just received a set of 32108 offset lower control arm bushings, but there were no install instructions with them. I was wondering where the set screws should be drilled through the control arms to hold them.

Their reply:

In reply to your E-Mail
This would be toward the balljoint side of the bushing.

Me:

So would it go on the top of the suspension arm or the bottom closest to the balljoint side?

Also, should these bushings fit loosely into the arms, they dropped in with no pressure and will fall out on their own if the center bushing sleeve is not in place to hold them together?

Their reply:

In reply to your E-Mail
Generally one bolt on top and one bolt on the bottom. The bushings should slide in with minimum pressure.


(btw, I ended up not using them because they fit way to loose in my lower control arms, I don't know if they were just from a bad batch or my arms were worn out, but the credited my money back and were really nice people to deal with, I would definetly buy from them in the future)

 

shotchkiss

I don't know about you, but I'd say those replies were a bit vague.
The kind that makes it hard to decide whether location just doesn't
matter, the person doesn't know the answer or the person is too
busy/doesn't care enough to prepare a more satisfying response.

So, since you had already removed the OEM bushings and chose
not to use the VB&P offset ones, what did you wind up using instead?
Someone else's poly? Offset or not?

.

 

Actually I put a spare set of stock arms back on because I was running out of time and had an event coming up. One of these days I'll get back to it and finish the front end.

 

Thanks to everyone for your replies. I've been too busy to respond until now.

Your description is more accurate.

Yes, VBP's website says there will be detailed instructions but none came with the kit. I called and was told none were available. The person I talked to was very helpful but could not provide instructions. She gave me the name and number of someone to call for advice and mentioned this forum. I was trying not to bother the person she mentioned but may resort to that. Despite the instruction faux pas, I have had excellent customer service from VBP and have used many of their products and will continue to do so.

I agree with putting the set screws in the meaty part of the bushing which would also be the outboard side as noted by VBP. I'm somewhat confused by the one on bottom, one on top response. Because the bushings are split, I assumed that each half would need a set screw. I guess I could put one half in from the top and and the other half from the bottom.

I'll check for bushing fit. My control arms are out to have the new balljoints pressed in.

Thanks again to all. Because I already have the old bushings out, based on your thoughts, I going to go ahead and install these with our collective best guesses.