Who wants to give me the step-by-step on pulling injectors? Doesnt look to hard.

 

1. With ignition Off, disconnect injector electrical connection(s).
2. Relieve fuel pressure. Refer to Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure.
3. Remove fuel rail. Refer to Fuel Rail, Replace.
4. Rotate injector retainer clips to release, Fig. 347.
5. Remove injector(s).
6. Reverse procedure to install. If original injector(s) are being reinstalled or replacement injector(s) do not come equipped with new O-rings, install new O-rings.

 

that SOUNDS easy enough. Thanks for the info.

 

Here is the rest:

Service and Repair
Notes

Fig. 9 Plenum, runner & fuel line installation. 1985---88 Corvette, 1985---88 V8-305 W/EFI similar


Fig. 10 Intake manifold installation. 1985---88 Corvette & V8-305 W/EFI



1. Disconnect battery ground cable, drain cooling system and remove air intake duct and mass air flow sensor assembly.
2. Disconnect accelerator, cruise control and transmission cables, as equipped, and remove cable bracket.
3. Disconnect electrical connectors, coolant hoses and vacuum hoses, then remove throttle body from plenum.
4. Disconnect brake booster and vacuum hoses from plenum, noting position for installation.
5. Remove right intake runners, plenum retaining bolts and the plenum, Fig. 9.
6. Connect pressure gauge J-34370-1 or equivalent to pressure tap on fuel rail, position bleed hose in suitable container and slowly relieve fuel system pressure. Failure to relieve system pressure prior to disconnecting fuel system components may cause fire or personal injury.
7. Disconnect cold start valve fuel line and remove cold start valve.
8. Disconnect fuel lines and injector harness connectors.
9. Loosen fuel rail bolts and raise fuel rail assembly.
10. Remove remaining manifold runners, then the fuel rail assembly.


Basically, remove the plenum and intake runners. You may have to take the valve covers off to get the runners off if you have aftermarket valve covers.

Then pull the bolts on the fuel rail and with the fuel injectors in the rail, pull the injectors out of the lower intake manifold by pulling on the rail near the injectors.

Then once the injectors and rail are out, remove the locks and seperate the injectors from the rails.

Then put the new injectors into the rail with the locks and reverse the install.

Here is a picture of the locks:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jessic...cd.jpg&.src=ph

 

Here are details of how I have changed out the injectors in a 89 without pulling the runners from the intake manifold. Use as you wish:

Removal of Injectors on 89 Corvette TPI without removal of Runners

I replaced the Multec injectors in my 89 - 350 TPI and used the GM Helms manual as a guide. The manual recommends you remove both runners to replace the fuel injectors. I followed the Helm manual procedure on my first injector removal and found it difficult to remove the lower Torx runner bolts. These bolts are not easily removed because the valve covers do not allow "straight access" to the pesky Torx bolts. Therefore, you must remove the valve covers.....and this is not easy! During my second injector removal project, I wanted to see if I could remove the injectors the “an easier way” (without runner removal) and the steps below were a result of what I found to work for me.

Just for the "fun of it" make sure your new injectors (if you are replacing them) all fit the electrical connectors on your engine...sounds like an assumption...one of my injectors did not fit. Had to do a little filing on the injector plug and a lot of cussing!

There are some tools you will need for this. You will need a Torx driver to remove the upper plenum bolts. There will be some metric wrenches, a soft face hammer and screwdrivers. However, there are some “special” items:
1. A set of ¼ inch hex Torx bits as these are about one inch in length
2. ¼ inch ratchet with a ¼ inch socket. You will need to place the Torx bit into the ¼ inch socket in order to remove the small Torx bolts that hold the fuel injector rails together.
3. ¼ inch combination wrench. You will need to place the ¼ inch Torx bit into the closed end of the ¼ inch combination wrench to remove the fuel rail Torx bolts in close quarters. Try this simple process before you start the injector removal!!!

Here is what I did to install new injectors:

1. Remove one battery connection and relieve the pressure in the fuel system by pressing the Schrader valve on the passenger side fuel rail. Note you are releasing gasoline that can cause odor and fire!!!
2. Remove the wire cables to the butterfly valve on the throttle body, remove the cables from the bracket on the side of the plenum and lay aside the cables.
3. While on that side, remove the vacuum line on the rear and bottom of the plenum. Use a flare wrench so that you do not "booger up" the 5/8 nut.
4. Remove the upper runner Torx bolts (driver side) and note what length bolt goes where.
5. Go to the other side of the engine and disconnect the IAC, TPS and MAF connections.
6. Remove the flexible hose from the air filter to the throttle body.
7. Disconnect the two water lines to the TB and consider a TB doing a bypass! This project will “clean up a very busy” area of the motor and will cost you less than $5 for a professional looking job!
8. Disconnect the various vacuum lines on that side of the plenum, as there are 4 to 5 as I recall. Note there is one vacuum line under the plenum (front, left hand side) and this one is easy to miss!
9. Remove the throttle body and place on a secure surface.
10. Remove the upper runner Torx bolts (passenger side) and note any difference in length of screws.
11. At this point make sure all runner bolts (both sides) are removed and all connections to plenum are disconnected. Using a rubber or soft face hammer, slightly tap "upwards" under the plenum and the plenum will “just” come loose from the runners. (Do not loosen or remove the lower runner bolts.) Lift up and remove the plenum. Place this on a secure surface. If you drop it, you will cry real tears!!!
12. Remove the two fuel lines (right front side of engine) that go to and from the fuel rail assembly. Use a flare wrench for this removal.
13. Remove the two steel fuel lines (crossways to engine top) in front and rear of the fuel rail assembly. Note that a small Torx screw secures a bracket (that holds that end of the line) on each fuel rail. The rear line (and brackets) is a little difficult due to close space, but is easy to remove. Here you will have to use the ¼ Torx bit placed in the closed end of the ¼ inch combination wrench to remove the Torx screws. See the note on “special” tools at the beginning of this note!
14. Remove the EGR valve and the two bolts are in close quarters. I used a 7/16 inch combination wrench (use open end of wrench and place wrench in a vertical position) on the EGR hex bolts with a screwdriver in the closed end as a lever, useful for this “tight area”.
15. The passenger side injector rail assembly is easiest to remove. While standing on one side of the car (this is made easier by removing the two front wheels), grab the front of the rail with one hand and the back of the rail with the other hand. Rock the rail assembly side to side while gently pulling upwards. Be careful as the rail assembly will suddenly turn loose and you can damage the runner and some of your tender skin!! After the four injectors break loose, rotate the top of the fuel rail assembly toward the center of the engine and raise it upwards. That injector rail assembly will come out as one piece.
16. The other rail is removed the same way but required a special twist to get it out. Just work with it, have a cold beer and you can get it out.
17. Assembly is just the opposite sequence.

Do yourself a favor and use NEW "O" rings on the fuel rail lines and injectors, as they are cheap compared to another teardown! Hint: lubricate all the "O" rings with light oil for ease of re-assembly.

 

Thanks Sam. This is what I was hoping for. Didn't want to take the lower part off if I didn't have to. Should work on a 91, think?

 

Replace the ones on my '90 only pulling the upper plenum. I have TPIS Big Mouth lower & large runners & only had a little trouble weaseling the old ones out & new ones in. The new 42lb ones were actually a little shorter & were easier to install.

By the way, Greg @ blowerworks has large runner gaskets & they were WAY better than the last set I got direct from TPIS.

YMMV...

Ps. Don't forget to hook up the vacuum line for the power brakes.... Really hard to set base idle with that big azz vac leak. Don't ask me how I know.:o

 

The procedure should have a few more notes and here they are:
18: Do not use any sealant on the runner gaskets. I used some gasket adhesive to secure the gaskets to the runners.
19: You will loose some coolant when you remove the TB hoses. Minimize this coolant loss as trapped air is a real problem on the L98 engine. While you have the plenum off, consider drilling two small holes in the outer flange of the thermostat. These holes can be either 1/16 or 1/8 inch in size. These holes will prevent trapped air in the engine and the need to "stack" the coolant.

Let me know if photos are needed for the t'stat drilling and throttle body bypass.

Regards, SAM