C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Halfshaft and U-joint problem...

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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 02:33 PM
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Default Halfshaft and U-joint problem...

Been driving my MiniRam Vette to new heights and I guess I won't be doing that today because the rear left U-joint is eeking pretty badly. Its gotten worse since Thursday. So, today I took off the half shaft on that side and for some reason, on the wheel hub side that U-joint just doesn't wanna tap out. I have it on a vise all wrapped up in a towel and I'm concerned if it "tap" it out any harder, I might dent the halfshaft. How are you all able to take this sucker out? I know this one is the cause of all the eeking. Could it be seized on to the halfshaft???? Any recommendations on some high quality aftermarket replacement U-joints instead of using the stupid weak GM crap??? Would it be better to replace all the U-joints?
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 02:39 PM
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how big is your vice?

If it's big enough, put a socket on the cap of the ujoint, then put a large socket on the other side... and squeeze.

If I may suggest, you might want to go visit Pepboys or Harbor Freight and pick up one of these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=33497



I have used that tool, and it kicks ***.
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 02:53 PM
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Do not hammer them out! You will invariably distort something, which is not cool

Here is an excellent "how to" for U-joint R&R using a Vice....

replace with Spicer U-joints w/o grease fittings..do all 4 if u have time.........and drive shaft if you are really ambitious....depending on mileage of course...

http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette...nts/index.html


Last edited by MikeC4; Jun 17, 2006 at 03:02 PM.
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 03:04 PM
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They're not supposed to tap out of the halfshafts, you need to press them out with a vise.
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeC4
Do not hammer them out! You will invariably distort something, which is not cool

Here is an excellent "how to" for U-joint R&R using a Vice....

replace with Spicer U-joints w/o grease fittings..do all 4 if u have time.........

http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette...nts/index.html

Oh snap.... That was freakin' easy! It popped right out with that large/small socket vise method. I can tell those rollpins are toast! When I rotate it, it feels like it gets stuck, then free again for half a rotation. I bet this MiniRam is makin' the torque if this U-joint just suddenly pooped out on me...

So why are U-joints better without the grease fittings? Isn't it better to have the fittings so you can grease them up occasionally????
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by kopbet89c4
So why are U-joints better without the grease fittings? Isn't it better to have the fittings so you can grease them up occasionally????
They're stronger without grease fittings. But like you said, they won't last as long for normal driving because they'll run out of lube and burn up. At 70K, two of my original spicers ran out and were grinding the needles, the other 4 weren't far from it.

All depends on whether that extra bit of strength is more important to you.
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 04:27 PM
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As long as the seals stay good they shouldn't run outta lube. I really hate the fact that I have that nice how-to all done up and I used crappy u-joints that time! Cold Forged Spicers are all I use now. Those crappy brute force ones lasted about a month or so.
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by kopbet89c4
Any recommendations on some high quality aftermarket replacement U-joints instead of using the stupid weak GM crap??? Would it be better to replace all the U-joints?
"The stupid weak GM crap" was bought by GM from Spicer/Dana who happens to make the best joints for the C4 applications.

Roll pins? The half shafts don't have any roll pins. Are you referring to the needle bearings?

The non-greasable joints are stronger because they don't have the hole for the grease to travel through, drilled in the spider, weakening it.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 05:12 PM
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Yeah, I meant needle bearings. They looked bent up and some were missing.
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by scorp508
As long as the seals stay good they shouldn't run outta lube. I really hate the fact that I have that nice how-to all done up and I used crappy u-joints that time! Cold Forged Spicers are all I use now. Those crappy brute force ones lasted about a month or so.
sorry Scorp, I meant to credit you for that excellent write up!!
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 10:42 PM
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I put in the "crappy" Brute Force u joints when I swapped in my Dana 44...200 passes at the drag strip and 20K miles later all is well...maybe I'm just a lucky guy...lol
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 11:29 PM
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Took all 4 of them out just for some preventative maintenance. It sucks that my auto parts store has to special order the Spicer units. They will be here on Wed. WTF, it sucks to have my Vette out of commission for the next 4 days. I'm seriously in love with that thing all over again like I just got it. Then there goes the "eek eek eek eek eek" of the U-joint while driving. Driving my Vette is like taking drugs. I can't stop as I'm addicted to it. Pitiful to see the *** end on jack stands, until my new U-joints arrive. Maybe I'm just gonna crank it up and hear it idle for a few minutes so I don't miss out on her too much... :leaving
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 02:59 AM
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I have the Brute Force ujoints, and they are fine for my use.

The ones on the driveshaft have been on for the last 4 years, no problems... the ones on the half shafts have been there for 2+ years... again, no problems.

I would get them again.
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