C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Opti Problems

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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 03:45 PM
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Default Opti Problems

I washed my engine at the car wash yestarday. I was carefull to avoid direct spray of the opti but apparently not carful enough. I didn't think I was going to make it home. I live in So Cal (dry) and was hopeful things would dry out over night. No dice! I went for a drive this morning and while not quite as bad as yestarday afternoon, still not good. The engine seems to just stop intermitantly. It always fires right back up but it may or may not make enough power to drive. Is there a short term fix to buy some time to replace the opti?
I've only had the car a couple of weeks and am planning to replace the opti with one of the more robust soulution but I'm not quite ready.
Can you squirt a water displacing lubricant into the drain hole? Any suggestions will be appreciated tremendously!

Thanks in advance!
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 03:56 PM
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Your first mistake was washing the engine. I assume that most responses will tell you to replace the opti.
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 05:49 PM
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I didn't have any luck with the water displacing sprays. I'm not sure if there's anything you can do once you get the inside wet. Placing a hair dryer on it with warm air blowing over it may help??? I didn't try that. In the end I replaced the opti. Good luck!
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 05:53 PM
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I ain't the opti... you have wet wires.

I had it happen to me, but not because I washed the engine - but because I got stuck in a bad assed rain storm... and washed out the front end...yuck... however, it didn't run well for several hours after the hit. I sprayed some WD40 down there and it helped a lot.

it took 15 months before the damage showed internally.

What year is your Vette?
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 07:39 PM
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My car is a 93 with 38K miles.

I'm sure things are dry by now. I't damn hot here in So Cal with low humidity.

I just returned from a 60 mile round trip on the freeway. The car ran pretty good outbound. Different story comming back. It was missing so bad I wasn't sure I would make it. The check engine soon light has come on a few times but I have yet to pull the codes. I don't have a scan tool yet. Is there a way to get the codes the old way?

Thanks for the help!!!!
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ccford
My car is a 93 with 38K miles.

I'm sure things are dry by now. I't damn hot here in So Cal with low humidity.

I just returned from a 60 mile round trip on the freeway. The car ran pretty good outbound. Different story comming back. It was missing so bad I wasn't sure I would make it. The check engine soon light has come on a few times but I have yet to pull the codes. I don't have a scan tool yet. Is there a way to get the codes the old way?

Thanks for the help!!!!
get a paper clip and short pins A and G on you ALDL. Turn engine to ON position and codes will show up on Speedometer
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ccford
My car is a 93 with 38K miles.

I'm sure things are dry by now. I't damn hot here in So Cal with low humidity.

I just returned from a 60 mile round trip on the freeway. The car ran pretty good outbound. Different story comming back. It was missing so bad I wasn't sure I would make it. The check engine soon light has come on a few times but I have yet to pull the codes. I don't have a scan tool yet. Is there a way to get the codes the old way?

Thanks for the help!!!!
much easier to follow these simple directions: Reading CCM Codes 1992/1993

I know what you are saying, but I would be STUNNED if the opti has crapped out from a little water...

oh, and you ain't kidding! It is hotter than hell out there... I am in Torrance, and we are melting here!!!
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 08:12 PM
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I just checked the codes....

H72, H33, H34, H44

Code #72: Gear Selector Switch Circuit.
Code #33: Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit Low.
Code #34: Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit High.
Code #44: Left Oxygen Sensor Circuit Lean.

Not particularly definative? The MAP issues may come from the gas pedal gyrations trying to get the thing to run.

Last edited by ccford; Jun 17, 2006 at 08:19 PM.
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 08:25 PM
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Here are the codes for my 95. Not sure if they are the same.

H33 - (MAP) Sensor Circuit - Signal Voltage High - Low Vacuum
H34 - (MAP) Sensor Circuit - Signal Voltage Low - High Vacuum
H44 - Bank 1 (Left Front) (Ho2s) # 1 Circuit (Lean Exhaust Indicated)
H72 - Vehical Speed Sensor Loss
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ccford
I just checked the codes....

H72, H33, H34, H44

Code #72: Gear Selector Switch Circuit.
Code #33: Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit Low.
Code #34: Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit High.
Code #44: Left Oxygen Sensor Circuit Lean.

Not particularly definative? The MAP issues may come from the gas pedal gyrations trying to get the thing to run.
yes, actually it is.

Remove the harness for the MAP (its the little box thingy on top of the intake, right side), and clean it out.

Start there.
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 09:16 PM
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Thanks! I removed the connector and the MAP transducer. I did not see anything wrong so I re-installed and made sure to firmly connect. I started the car a reved a few times and it sounded crisp. I'll have to wait till tommorw for a test drive due to wifely responsibilities. I'll keep you posted.
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 09:21 PM
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sometimes, moisture or corrosion will build up in a harness... just R&R'ing will clean it.

Keep us posted.
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 09:26 PM
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If you didn't do it put some Di-Electric grease on that and any connector you remove it will make them moisture proof and prevent further corrosion.
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 06:10 AM
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Raise the hood and let it dry out. I had to replace the coil wire due to a busted radiator hose. It's a terrible feeling but after going thru it I think you'll be ok
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