I'm thinking about getting a NOS15835B controller to help with some traction issues on my 125hp wet kit. My question is what happens with a progressive controller on a stick shift car when you let off to shift gears? Does it start over from scratch or continue from where it left off with the progressive control of the N20?

 

It is time based from the first activation once the system is armed. If you arm the system and make a pass, you must disarm, and then re-arm the system to get the timed delay again. Also, if you catch someone on the freeway and arm the system, you'll get your delay before the N20 hits, even when you don't want it. There mgiht be a way to wire it so that it works dfferently, but that was my experience about 2 years ago with a NOS brand controller.

In my opinion, even thoiugh it as old as dirt, the Jacobs Nitrous Master Mind is a much better unit. The N20 flow is controlled by RPM, not by time. With the time based NOS controller, if you catch a bad line on the track and do spin the tires, you can't pedal the throttle to get the hook back. If it's set up to give your full 125 HP after 1.5 seoncds, that is what you are going to get, no matter what. The Jacobs controller is based on RPM. You set the nitrous percentage in relation to RPM. You have a 125 HP shot, at 3200 RPM's you can use 50% of that for example. That way, everytime you use nitrous at 3200 RPM's you are getting 50% of your maximum shot. Any combo of RPM and percentage is available.

Good luck!

 

if you use a button to fire the controller, it will restart the timing sequence everytime you release the button and press again.
If you use 0 delay, 30% start over 1.5 seconds, it will start @ 30% go to 100% over 1.5 seconds everytime you restart the sequence, release and press the button. That's the way my NOS works, I just zeroed the delay and start on the press of the button.
if you use a throttle switch, a slight blip of the throttle restarts the sequence.

I have just one question and comment, well maybe more than one

IF you are rpm based and the tires breaks loose, what happens to rpm?
If it goes up (rpm) and the nitrous goes stronger, what happens to rpm?
If it goes up (rpm) more, and the nitrous goes still stronger, what happens to traction?
And finally, if the tires are broke loose, rpm goes higher, what happens to nitrous flow as the rpms go up? You've already lost traction, and not as likely to get it back as rpms rise on rpm based system.
If you are time based, the rpms will not rise as quickly as rpms based will.
Both types of systems should reset with a blip of the throttle switch or the switch, except the time based system will reset to the preset. The rpm based system set to start at 30% at 3k, what will the % be at 4k or 5k if it's 100% at 6k?
If you release the button or blip the throttle on a manual shift, the time system will restart and the rpm based system will apply at the rpm level, or it should.
Just some thoughts.

 

One other thing I'll pass on. Anytime you start at less than 100%, you will reduce the pressure spike that occurs with the onslaught of the nitrous and fuel in the combustion chamber. This will reduce recriprocating stress and the chance of a backfire at lower rpms when cam overlap has more time in the event.

 

I like the RPM based system because you can pedal the throttle if you lose traction. With the time based NOS controller I used to have, the nitrous was all in 1.00 seconds after activation. If I blew the tires off the car, lifted, and mashed the throttle again, the nitrous came back on at 100% because my 1 second delay had already elapsed. I changed the wiring around so that every time I lifted the 1 second delay was reset, but then I was running with no nitrous for 1 second every time I shifted, but I could pedal the car some if the tires let go.

If your preset is 0 delay then that works great. If you try to use any kind of delay at all, you experience that delay every time you shift, and every time you try to pedal the car at the line to get some traction back.

53% at 4k, 76% at 5k, give or take a single percentage point. If you shift at 7k, and only drop to 6k after each shift, the system is flawless. 100% power from the nitous everywhere except at launch, and the power comes on in a smooth, predicatable way. And IMO, the ebst thing si that you can pedal the throttle. I know I sound like a broken record, but the track here is not very consistent. Some night's I can hook a 150 shot at the line, other nights NA will blow the tires off. The ability to get in and out of throttle is what makes the RPM based system the best, in my opinion.

Right, so every time you shift, you lose the delay time. The only way the time based system works is if you set the delay at 0, which kind of defeats the purpose of having it.

 

No problem in what you're saying. But, I can't take a 100% hit after the shift. It blows the tires away. When I let off and rehit, I've got 30% to hit the tires with not a 100%. When I 0 delay, all I do is eliminate the delay of the sequence start. That's ok if you can keep the throttle down all the way which I can do in my 89 383 auto, can't do that with the 90 427 ZF, a 150 shot puts my torque over 700 from 3.5k to 5.5k. A 200 shot puts it over 700 from 2.4k to 6k.
Drag radials don't like my ZF, at all! much less street tires. I tried 400 once, what a waste of nitrous and tires. Slicks are a different story, but they tend to break u joints and half shafts and such.
I've been made leary feathering the throttle with nitrous, you ought to see what it does to throttle blades.
This could be argued for years, rpm based is ok if you can hook. most of my time is on the street ... if I'm draggin' i don't go to the local track, i test out of town.
johnny

 

No sweat man, different strokes.

 

Thanks for the info, it sounds like the time and RPM based controllers both have their advantages and disadvantages. I did notice the Jacobs one is lower priced than the one I had in mind. Maybe if I set the window switch so it comes on at higher RPM it will help.

 

with the jacobs mastermind, you do not need a window switch.. you dial in the start and full spray RPM and the shut off RPM.. it is a great unit.. some said they had some problems with them a while back..3-4 years ago, but I had one and liked it.. the ***** are sometimes a little off from where they say they are but if ya have a chance toi throw it on the dyno you can dial them in.. the functionality is good but the accuracy leaves a little bit to be desired.. at least from the one I had and from info I got from other people who have used them as well.

Chris

 

I have the edlebrock controller and it will do either time or rpm based as well as roll on a % of the NOS. It is very programmable.

 

Does anybody know of a controller that might also be speed activated? A super high torque car can't use any nitrous in first gear (especially if it's geared) and even second can be iffy sometimes

 

lcvette was telling you about not needing a window switch, as the Nitrous Mastermind is progammable. I wanted to add that it also has a rev limiter, and it will shut the nitrous off just before the rev limit. You do NOT want to be on nitrous and sit on the limiter. The rev limiter does not take pills either. You just turn the dial to where you need it. The Nitrous Mastermind will also cut the nitrous if you lose fuel pressure. I have used the same mastermind for over ten years. It works for me. Good luck!

 

Heres a pic of how I have my Nitrous Mastermind installed!