DEAD, but question Fusible Link...
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Pro
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Florida
DEAD, but question Fusible Link...
Posted this in the "C3" section, but didn't get any replies. Since the engine is a '95 LT1, thought I'd post here too...(even though has nothing to do w/ the engine!) 
My '76 (W/ '95 LT1) starter just got stuck in the flywheel (I kind of hesitated when starting it, and turned off the key prior to it fully engaging), and now (after tapping the starter to release the gear) car is DEAD electric-wise...nothing works (headlights, horn, gauges, etc)
I question it NOT being a fusible link because I recently installed all new underhood wires (lectric limited) and the two fusible links going to the starter (as well as the entire harness) look GREAT. Another reason is this "strange" phenomenon - when I use a volt meter to test the battery (key "ON"), all my guages jump to their correct readings and the cd-changer starts to load the discs (just like it would do any other time w/ the key "ON", after a battery disconnect).
How is connecting a volt meter to the battery "completing" this circuit? If this fusible link were bad, wouldn't NOTHING work until fixed?
...and if it matters, 0.13V at the starter solenoid w/ the key "ON".
Thanks... I recently moved into a "NO working on Cars" apartment complex, so want to keep my time underhood as limited as I can)
My '76 (W/ '95 LT1) starter just got stuck in the flywheel (I kind of hesitated when starting it, and turned off the key prior to it fully engaging), and now (after tapping the starter to release the gear) car is DEAD electric-wise...nothing works (headlights, horn, gauges, etc)
I question it NOT being a fusible link because I recently installed all new underhood wires (lectric limited) and the two fusible links going to the starter (as well as the entire harness) look GREAT. Another reason is this "strange" phenomenon - when I use a volt meter to test the battery (key "ON"), all my guages jump to their correct readings and the cd-changer starts to load the discs (just like it would do any other time w/ the key "ON", after a battery disconnect).
How is connecting a volt meter to the battery "completing" this circuit? If this fusible link were bad, wouldn't NOTHING work until fixed?
...and if it matters, 0.13V at the starter solenoid w/ the key "ON".
Thanks... I recently moved into a "NO working on Cars" apartment complex, so want to keep my time underhood as limited as I can)
Last edited by DR76; Jun 20, 2006 at 12:23 PM.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 381
Likes: 8
From: NORTH WEST PA
Are there two wires coming from the positive terminal on the battery, one smaller in diameter and the other considerably thicker? If yes ... then the smaller feeds everything else but the starter, the heavy cable is the main feed for the starter only. You didn't say where you were measuring the 0.13 volts. Was this on the heavy wire from the battery or the very small wire that energizes the solenoid? If it's the larger wire I'd say you have a bad main cable ... if it's the smaller wire on the starter that wire is not energized until you turn the key.
Also, connecting the volt meter to the battery only tells you the voltage in the battery and not a complete circuit path. To determine a complete circuit path you need to measure voltage at the point of contact with the device. For example, place on probe to ground (a clean spot on the frame will work) and the other probe (red) where the battery connects to the starter. If you are receiving the same or very close voltage that was measured at the battery then you have a complete circuit, if not then you are on the way to isolating the problem.
I don't mean to tell you something you may already know but I had to make assumptions based on the info you provided.
Hope this helps!
Also, connecting the volt meter to the battery only tells you the voltage in the battery and not a complete circuit path. To determine a complete circuit path you need to measure voltage at the point of contact with the device. For example, place on probe to ground (a clean spot on the frame will work) and the other probe (red) where the battery connects to the starter. If you are receiving the same or very close voltage that was measured at the battery then you have a complete circuit, if not then you are on the way to isolating the problem.
I don't mean to tell you something you may already know but I had to make assumptions based on the info you provided.
Hope this helps!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 848
Likes: 1
From: 1992 LT1 6 speed Cayman Islands
The voltmeter completing the circuit is probably because you have a bad ground from the batters. Check the negative battery cable connection for corosion. Also check and clean the other chassis and engine grounds.
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Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Florida
"Completing the circuit" was probably not the best phrasing, so let me just clarify what I meant to say...
When I put the test leads from the volt meter to the battery (with key "ON"), the electrical system "re-energizes" (so to speak). The gauges jump to their proper readings, and I can hear the cd-changer start to load discs (this is something that always happens after I connect a disconnected battery). I'm not sure if ALL electrical functions work (like headlights, horn, etc), but will try them if I can. As soon as I disconnect the volt meter test leads, the gauges drop as if the key was "Off".
I hope this clarifies if there was confusion...
I'll haven't tested the grounds yet (was just checking for replies), but can hopefully do so soon.
Thanks for the replies so far...
When I put the test leads from the volt meter to the battery (with key "ON"), the electrical system "re-energizes" (so to speak). The gauges jump to their proper readings, and I can hear the cd-changer start to load discs (this is something that always happens after I connect a disconnected battery). I'm not sure if ALL electrical functions work (like headlights, horn, etc), but will try them if I can. As soon as I disconnect the volt meter test leads, the gauges drop as if the key was "Off".
I hope this clarifies if there was confusion...
I'll haven't tested the grounds yet (was just checking for replies), but can hopefully do so soon.
Thanks for the replies so far...
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
I owned a 74 for 14 years and at about year 10, I had no electrics one morning (driven every day). I found that the ground cable from the battery to the frame had opened up, no connection at the lug that was bolted to the frame. I was prepaired to cut back the cable and solder a new lug on the ground cable but found out that the ground braided cable was aluminum wire copper plated. I was forced to buy a new ground cable which was all copper! Look and see if you have the same problem.
I doubt your voltmeter has anything to do with your sudden return of power to your car, but rather it was a coincidence. Check the ground cable, wiggle the positive cable at the cable lug on the battery post as these connections sometimes corrode away and become intermittent (try the negative cable too). Make sure your battery cable lugs are clean and bright along with your battery posts.
I doubt your voltmeter has anything to do with your sudden return of power to your car, but rather it was a coincidence. Check the ground cable, wiggle the positive cable at the cable lug on the battery post as these connections sometimes corrode away and become intermittent (try the negative cable too). Make sure your battery cable lugs are clean and bright along with your battery posts.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 708
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From: Florida
Always check the EASY things first! ...when will I learn
Turned out just to be a loose ground cable at the battery...I was making contact between the battery post bolt and the cable when I was attaching the volt meter, so that's why the systen "re-energized".
A lot of sweatin' for nothin'
Thanks again for the replies...
Turned out just to be a loose ground cable at the battery...I was making contact between the battery post bolt and the cable when I was attaching the volt meter, so that's why the systen "re-energized".
A lot of sweatin' for nothin'
Thanks again for the replies...
