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Yesterday I drove a 93 with a 383 stroked LT1 and a 6 speed. It had guldstrand suspension. When I got on it, the shifter went up and down in the console with the torque of the motor. I asked the owner about it and he told me it was the power. That didn't seem right to me since that would mean a loss of energy to the wheels or something was really flexing. I was thinking a bad trans mount or something loose in the center of the car. What do you think? Please help.
Thanks
One more thought to add. Over at the ZR1NetRegistry site in the "common issues" or "How To" sections of the maintenance section there is a write up about the movement of the shifter...sorry I do not remember exactly the contents of the article...may want to check that out also?
If is isn't the motor mounts could it be the C-beam?
It's probably not the engine mounts. The C-beam (which ties the rear of the tranny to the differential) is loose. The C-beam is the rear support for the tranny and if it's loose the transmission will pivot about the engine mounts and the shifter will move up and down quite a bit. When it's tightened down properly, the shifter will be solid (as Carpenter mentioned). There's a good chance that the tranny's rear seal and tailshaft bearing may have been damaged. I speak from experience - my car was this way when I bought it. I paid someone to fix it and it wasn't cheap.
The car doesn't leak, but I guess that doesn't necessarily mean it couldn't be damaged right. Is that a fix someone could do on their own? Tighten the c-beam I mean.
Mine did the same thing after I pulled the rear end. Shifter would move up and down a lot with just light throttle. The 2 front C-beam bolts were very loose which I found odd because I didn't loosen them, but once they were tightened, all was fine. Mine was an easy fix.
The car doesn't leak, but I guess that doesn't necessarily mean it couldn't be damaged right. Is that a fix someone could do on their own? Tighten the c-beam I mean.
yea, it would be major if they were fractured!
It is possible for one or both to be broken at the mounts without leaking... I will stress this - It's HIGHLY unlikely.
I would bet on the lose bolt theory.
Just get under there with a couple 19mm wrenches... one up top and one under... this car is a canidate for "beam plates." these are metal plates with the bolts welded to them. The idea is real simple... the plates hold the bolts, and at the same time, the plates actually help absorb some of the driveline torque. This eases the effect of the right rear tire kicking out under hard acceleration. The term is "Torque vectoring," and the plates actually help ease it. I have them... and I couldn't believe the improvement.
thanks for the info about the beam plates.
i know this car has seen a lot of track use. high performance driving events and such. i really hope it's just bolts.
I had this happen about a yr ago, it was just the bolt. Paid a guy to fix it for $30, he had to take the exhaust off to get to it. More importantly, it cost me 2-3 tenths at the drag strip.