Opti without a rotor
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Olive Branch (Memphis suburb) MS
Cruise-In II Veteran
Opti without a rotor
Does anyone make a opti without the rotor. I was using a Dynaspark to signal my Delteq and it appears the optical sensor crapped out. Jeb installed a new 2nd gen and the rotor blew apart in no time. With lots of folks running the Delteq or LTCC setups, it would be nice to have a totally sealed unit with a cover that doesn't have any of the high voltage stuff on it. 
From Steve40th's 
From Steve40th's
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
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From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
I bought a used 20 dollar opti,, then took it apart and cut the rotor down to make it keep the metal plate down and keep the optical sensor in time.
http://teamprickracing.com/twinturbo.../another_opti/
http://teamprickracing.com/twinturbo.../another_opti/
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Olive Branch (Memphis suburb) MS
Cruise-In II Veteran
Steve, that's what Jeb did to get it back up and running. Thanks for the great pictures. [The rumor-mill states there is a rotorless Opti-Spark in development now.] Tom, do you know if it's MSD or Dynaspark? 
Safety Car
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From: Mexico Beach FL
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Originally Posted by Tom Piper
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Howard PA
Not to hijack but what exactly fails in the opti? I can see water rusting the slits and causing problems but aside from water damage it's a pretty simple unit. I took mine apart to inspect it even though I wasn't having any problems with it. There's like 5 parts in the whole thing. I can see maybe the bearing failing, or the pickup crapping out but other than that there's not too much to go wrong if it's sealed well. Which is another reason I took it apart, to clean and seal it.
Even if the bearing fails, it must be available somewhere, and the pickup has a part number on it though I didn't check to see if it was available either.
Even if the bearing fails, it must be available somewhere, and the pickup has a part number on it though I didn't check to see if it was available either.
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From: Myrtle Beach SC
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
First time I have heard of a dynaspark crapping out.What RPMS are you running it at?Usually the sensor is pretty much bullet proof unless some thing else breaks (rotor) due to over eving the engine.Even the Dynaspark can take only so many rpms Around 7K if I remember right (correct me Dynaspark if I am wrong)I suspect some reason for your failures in the timing cover and it might be a good time to check everything out unless you ar over reving it.
Last edited by Redeasysport; Jun 28, 2006 at 01:52 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 1999
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From: Mexico Beach FL
Originally Posted by DYNASPARK
We're just waiting on a few more parts and it will be on the market. We said to expect mid June, I realize it's late June and I apologize. We are very close.
Is it possible it is thin enough to remove/replace without taking the damper pully off the hub?
Tom Piper
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From: Denton Texas
1 less part
Originally Posted by Tom Piper
Can you post any pictures on the "rotorless" Opti-Spark?
Is it possible it is thin enough to remove/replace without taking the damper pully off the hub?
Tom Piper
Is it possible it is thin enough to remove/replace without taking the damper pully off the hub?
Tom Piper
That would be nice. One less hard to remove part that would need to be removed.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Olive Branch (Memphis suburb) MS
Cruise-In II Veteran
Originally Posted by Redeasysport
First time I have heard of a dynaspark crapping out.What RPMS are you running it at?Usually the sensor is pretty much bullet proof unless some thing else breaks (rotor) due to over eving the engine.Even the Dynaspark can take only so many rpms Around 7K if I remember right (correct me Dynaspark if I am wrong)I suspect some reason for your failures in the timing cover and it might be a good time to check everything out unless you ar over reving it.
Last edited by Ramrod92; Jun 28, 2006 at 05:08 PM.
Le Mans Master
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From: Myrtle Beach SC
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Originally Posted by Ramrod92
Check out Jeb Burnett's reply in this post... http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1423356 I think Jeb has it set at about 6500. The cam goes into valve float at about 6800 according to the specs http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...41&lvl=2&prt=5
Appearently nothing is bullet proof
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Austin Texas
Originally Posted by steve40th
I bought a used 20 dollar opti,, then took it apart and cut the rotor down to make it keep the metal plate down and keep the optical sensor in time.
http://teamprickracing.com/twinturbo.../another_opti/
http://teamprickracing.com/twinturbo.../another_opti/
Friggin' Nimrods....
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
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From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Originally Posted by MikeC4
Unreal! WTF is wrong with GM. Why couldn't they have come up with a stronger plastic compound to withstand high RPM's??? Especially when it is a PITA to replace an Optispark. Maybe some kind of fiberglass mixture or something... Stuff like this sux...
Friggin' Nimrods....
Friggin' Nimrods....
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,952
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From: Little Rock Arkansas
Originally Posted by Ramrod92
Does anyone make a opti without the rotor. I was using a Dynaspark to signal my Delteq and it appears the optical sensor crapped out. Jeb installed a new 2nd gen and the rotor blew apart in no time. With lots of folks running the Delteq or LTCC setups, it would be nice to have a totally sealed unit with a cover that doesn't have any of the high voltage stuff on it. From Steve40th's
From Steve40th's Personally I think the Delteq is the way to go on these cars... Use a stock Opti and eliminate the rotor; it's rare that the optical eye goes out on them (unless the rotor blows apart
). I do not talk badly about ANYONE and there's a furthermore to that; but Ransome has had TWO Dynaspark's go out and EVERYTHING was followed to the letter in their installations. But they're a standup company and have offered to repair the units on both occasions; I just elected to eliminate it as one of the headaches I was dealing with on his car.-Jeb
Last edited by jburnett; Jun 29, 2006 at 01:47 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
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From: Olive Branch (Memphis suburb) MS
Cruise-In II Veteran
Originally Posted by jburnett
The one I put back in your car IS rotorless now... I built a "retainer disk" out of T6 aluminum (.090") and bolted it in place of where the rotor once was.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 418
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From: Houston Texas
I have to agree with JBurnett with the aluminum piece. My oem rotor broke off one of the "ears" and was barely holding in place with the other ear. But it was 10 years old with 120k miles. Still, crappy material. Why does my motorcycle rotor that spins twice as fast seem to last forever...
I think it is the plastic-it gets old and goes thru too many heat cycles and becomes brittle. My other bitch is those tiny tiny screws that hold the rotor in place. Most well stocked garages don't even have a tool for that part. If you can't find a Matco or Snap-On truck, make sure the neighbors can't hear you while you're getting those screws out.
I think it is the plastic-it gets old and goes thru too many heat cycles and becomes brittle. My other bitch is those tiny tiny screws that hold the rotor in place. Most well stocked garages don't even have a tool for that part. If you can't find a Matco or Snap-On truck, make sure the neighbors can't hear you while you're getting those screws out.