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It would depend on what you timed it TO. When I set my base timing at 6° BTDC with the EST disconnected, it reads about 18° to 22° BTDC with the EST connected. If you are compensating, fine. If not, you are setting your timing, way retarded, if there are no problems with the ignition, ESC, and EST systems.
You're timing will be retarded to the tune of 14-20 degrees or more.
Light load timing at idle should be around 20-26 degrees BTDC, which will be effectively reduced to 6 degrees (if thats what it was set to).
Note: Retarded ignition timing should help your NOx problem, but will kill your fuel economy and performance. You may want to try this trick if you need to get it to pass.
Otherwise, I think you will need to add fuel, as I've mentioned in your other post.
The EST is controled by the ECM which controls distibutor spark advance. When disconnecting the EST you bypass the ECM. When not disconnecting it you are allowing the ECM to retard timing and it will not be set properly. The base timing on L98 (90) is 6* BTDC and can be advance some. You are correct when saying (EST diaconnectd) and timing is at 6*, when the EST is connected again timing will read the 18* to 22* or about 12 o'clock on the balancer. The EST stands for Elcetronic Spark Timing and I would advise it to be disconnected to set base timing.
EST wire is a single wire (tan with black stripe) located beteen the distrubitor and brake booster and above the steering shaft. (weatherpack connector).
so if Iam not having problems will the cars computer compensate and thats why I don't feel anything wrong? or should I reset the timing?
The computer will not, cannot, compensate. No C4 has a crankshaft position sensor. The ECM cannot know the base timing. The ECM alters the timing, X° for each set of conditions sent to it by the various sensors that DO exist. All the ECM can do is add or subtract from what it is given. Changing the base timing, changes the timing under ALL circumstances.
ok, so anybody know the correct procedure to time an L98 engine without a timing light? sorry I don't own one. Can you do it by ear? I mean I just need to be fairly close right? In any case, cant' be any worst then it is doing it by ear WITH the EST wire still connected.
When not disconnecting it you are allowing the ECM to retard timing and it will not be set properly.
By not disconnecting the EST, you are allowing the ECM to ADVANCE the timing. I don't think the EST (or ECM) ever retards the timing. It will advance it more or less, but the timing will never be less than the base timing.
Extremevette, your pretty much just wasting your time without a timing light. Not saying it cant be done, but it takes a LOT of experience and trial and error! I've been doing this for twenty years (err...almost thirty years. Cr@p, I'm getting old!!!! And yeah, I'm sure there are plenty of guys on here older than me, who are going to call me a young pup, etc... but Oh well.) and other than very small adjustments out on a test drive, I always use a light! Yopu'de probably be better off just paying a local shop to do it for you, shouldn't cost more than $20 to $30 bucks, don't let them charge you more than .5 hrs to do it, it doesn't take that long!
ok gotcha....gonna borrow the timing light....whats next
ok Iam gonna borrow the timing light....whats next...sorry to sound so needy, but I have never timed a car before...one thing that has eluded me. Never had to do it...lol
Get a timing light, or borrow one its the only correct method. You can't really "power time" these cars since they will retard timing during knock.
But this may work if the distributor has not been removed and reclocked in a non standard orientation (I would not rely on this but its worth looking at your cap):
In my car, with 6 degrees of advance and the est disconnected, the distributor is sitting very nearly "straight" with respect to the longitudinal axis of the car. 4 degrees would be almost perfectly "straight". So I'm slightly advanced (read counterclockwise) of perfectly straight at 6 degrees.
I've considered resetting my base timing in the chip to 4 degrees just so I can have the distributor perfectly oriented, but it already very close to being spot on.
Look at the distributor cap from above (under the little tpi cover plate). There is a connector block that protrudes from the side of the cap with various connections for tach bat etc. If this is pointing directly to the driver's side of the car you should be in the vicinity of 4-6 degrees.
Remember this only works if the distributor orientation has not already been interfered with.
Last edited by tequilaboy; Jun 27, 2006 at 02:40 PM.
ok Iam gonna borrow the timing light....whats next...sorry to sound so needy, but I have never timed a car before...one thing that has eluded me. Never had to do it...lol
47 yrs of turning wrenches it's a very easy process, first locate the timing mark on the harmonic balancer..I painted the grove white, easier for me to see, also on the timing indicator above the balancer..locate 6* BTDC, I marked it as well. Then disconnect the EST, the wire described to you, connect the timing light to number 1 and other connections to battery, losen the dist. hold down just lose enough to turn, start car..set timing, tighten hold down, at this point I re-check timing, turn car off, reconnect EST..restart car, You may have thrown a code now SES light, just disconnect the neg. battery terminal for a few minutes.
Actually, for clarification the ECM will retard timing if the knock sensor reads to high and sends that info to the ECM. And yep FSM. factory service manuals year specific ar a must have if wrenching.
Last edited by rick lambert; Jun 27, 2006 at 02:48 PM.
Sounds like all you need now is a timing light and a 14mm or distrubitor wrench to get the job done. And as Rick said don't loosen the distrubitor hold down bolt too much or the distrubitor will turn when cranking and running. Just loose it enough that you have to give a little effort to turn the distrubitor.