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It always happens, I just finished installing my new interior, and the radiator tank cracks. The problem I'm having is my parts CD and some catalogs, give a code YC part number or a YD,YT part number. I'm not sure which part number to use on my 96 coupe with an LT4 option. Any help? I'll be going back stock as I can't swing an aluminum right now.
Tank on which side? If it's the tank on drivers side you should be able to take it to a radiator shop and get it quickly replaced for around a
100 bucks with the core boil out. If it's the pass. side tank good luck. I just went through this with mine and being a manual like yours no one had the pass. side tank in stock (had tank for automatic in stock with the provisions for trans cooler).
OH yeah almost forgot as Bogus said there's no difference in radiators only three made 89-96
one for manuals (yours)
one for automatics (obviousily not yours)
one for ZR1s (obviously not yours)
Last edited by ultraviolet70; Jul 2, 2006 at 02:31 PM.
Thanks for the info,I hadn't even thought about getting it repaired. Guess I just thought you couldn't repair the plastic tank. BTW of course mine is the passenger side.
I have never heard of a successful plastic tank repair (although there may have been many), but the replacement of a tank is quite common. I have had tanks replaced, twice, and still have the factory core that still works very well. Even if you can't find a manual trans, passenger side, tank, replacing it with one for an auto, won't leave any worse off than replacing the whole radiator, with the now universal, auto trans radiator.
If you have to buy a radiator, you cannot afford to not replace it with an aluminum core radiator, like your factory radiator. The offshore, copper/brass radiators don't have the construction quality, nor the cooling capacity of your 1 row, stock aluminum cored, plastic tank stocker. Then, not to mention the huge weight penalty of the copper/brass rads.
Unless you have a SERIOUS need for SERIOUSLY improved cooling... and don't mind paying for it. The DeWitt, two row, all aluminum radiator is a quality piece, that can't be beat, but that few really need.
I have never heard of a successful plastic tank repair (although there may have been many), but the replacement of a tank is quite common. I have had tanks replaced, twice, and still have the factory core that still works very well. Even if you can't find a manual trans, passenger side, tank, replacing it with one for an auto, won't leave any worse off than replacing the whole radiator, with the now universal, auto trans radiator.
If you have to buy a radiator, you cannot afford to not replace it with an aluminum core radiator, like your factory radiator. The offshore, copper/brass radiators don't have the construction quality, nor the cooling capacity of your 1 row, stock aluminum cored, plastic tank stocker. Then, not to mention the huge weight penalty of the copper/brass rads.
RACE ON!!!
I said replace the tank not repair as you stated though you cannot successfully repair a cracked tank. also you can install an entire radiator for an auto trans car in a manual equipped but unless you want to spend the money for the cooler in the radiator you can't just put the end tank on or you end up with 2 big coolant pissing holes. once you figure the price ofthe cooler and end tank you can buy a radiator.
just an update, I got a Modine replacement radiator for 150 bucks(www.radiatorexpress.com) and it is for an auto (right tank has cooler line inputs/outputs) works great and not to bad a job-except the 7mm screws at the lower front of upper support-a pain to reach
I said replace the tank not repair as you stated though you cannot successfully repair a cracked tank.
I was addressing rickslt4's comment of "I hadn't even thought about getting it repaired.", not yours, when I commented on repairing the tank. His comment wasn't clear on whether he was referring to a tank repair or a radiator repair.
Originally Posted by ultraviolet70
also you can install an entire radiator for an auto trans car in a manual equipped but unless you want to spend the money for the cooler in the radiator you can't just put the end tank on or you end up with 2 big coolant pissing holes. once you figure the price ofthe cooler and end tank you can buy a radiator.
Ya think? How about plugging those "2 big coolant pissing holes", with something a little less expensive than a trans cooler coil?
Originally Posted by rickslt4
just an update, I got a Modine replacement radiator for 150 bucks(www.radiatorexpress.com) and it is for an auto (right tank has cooler line inputs/outputs) works great and not to bad a job-except the 7mm screws at the lower front of upper support-a pain to reach
Great outcome. I followed your link, and I would have been afraid of getting some off shore, will fit, radiator that wasn't near as good as the original. You got lucky, you can't beat the Modine.